75sv1

I do have a Russ Pottenger head. Excellent workmanship. Also, he can or will CC the head to do what you want. There are +++ and --- for each era of heads. Probably the 603 for you. Also, you'd need to check the availability of the Edelbrock head. I think Russ might have a few left. I have ported 3 4.0L heads. 2 of them are '99 heads. Not near the quality of Russ's though. Also, for some reason around me they won't or don't do bronze guides. I did have some 30 degrees on the intake valves though. I am having 37 degree intakes on some LS heads. I know Russ ports the Tupy Heads. I hear he has gone to some Chinese castings. I still want to do one more 4.0L head. Use a Tupy casting. I used Chevy SB valves before. I'd use LS valves. Have the intake 30 degree. 45 on the exhaust. Moldstar 20 for the valve guides. Possibly Moldstar 90 for the seats. I'd use 91-95 HO Melling springs. Port the exhaust as a 'D' port. Use stock 4.0L spring retainers. This would be running a below .450 lift camshaft. I am running or more like trying to break in a mini stroker with a cam with .450 lift. I'd also be thinking of 9.3 to 9.5 static compression ratio. Trying to run on 87-88 octane. Also, I am looking to do a full stroker. KB has a hyper eutectic 'D' or stock type piston out. Not much more than stock pistons. So, I have been thinking of this for a bit. I do have an extra cam, head and a used bock. To many projects right now.

I think the WJ and 2000-01 XJ units are closer to width. I do not think you will need the weld on spacer. I did look into adapting to later XJ knuckles, not know the earlier XJ/MJ knuckles had bolt caliper brackets.

I have gone that route. Also, I think you would be running the early XJ knuckles. Cobra Marty had some write ups about that. I think he went even larger diameter rotor. I remember Dodge Dakota Rotors. Mustang GT calipers and 3/4 spacers. I want to say he used XJ hub bearings. The WJs are basically the same, except the 5 on 5. I use Rock Auto to get dimensions. I was/ am looking to use WJ Hubs, Dakota Rotors or later Jeep rotors to get a 13 inch rotors and use WJ hubs. I might try and go to 5 on 5.5. Thinking on of the later JKs or such would have the hubs etc.

I am running the WJ Big Brakes. So, WJ knuckles with a 1/4 spacer. Then using the WJ Akebono Calipers. I also need to space out 1/4 for the Brake Caliper bracket. On mine with 5 on 5, I use WJ Rotors. That is with the WJ Hub Bearings. Also, use WJ lower ball joints. I see a lot of threads going in different directions. Some of them scare me. If people need a list or so. I'll post more info.

Maybe Marson or Arrow. I think they used to be good brands. Maybe check the pawn shops. See if you can find a good old US made one.

I want to say Kwik-?? Pop or something.

I wouldn't see an issue with drilling another set of 5 on 5???. I might have to do that with the rear axle shafts on an XJ with Ford 8.8. The Yukon axles come with 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5. Either drill the rear axles, or come up with 5 on 5.5 hubs for the front. And also, 5.5 rims.

I'd look for some darker brown accents on the exterior with also the black. Not so much black on the hood as on the Comanche Concept. I'd also think that on the interior. Black or a dark brown on either the inner or outside of the seat. Same on other interior parts. Maybe a black or dark gray carpet. So, stains aren't an issue.

I kind of like it in the engine bay. Possibly easier to see things. I think your idea of two tone or multi colors or layers would look good. I have a Sienna (Burgundy) XJ. I did different black accents on it. Looks good to me. Recently, I had to replace a rim, as one decided to go Jeep on me and went on its own trail. It was silver. I came across a gray rim, with silver ring. Really sets off the rest of the exterior color. So, now I need one more to complete the set. I think there is a fine line , between to much and to little. Your work looks good. Want to see progress pictures.

Harmonic balancers make noise when they are slipping. Put a white line across the hub and the outer ring. See if it stays in position after running it. I change mine on any 'new' old vehicle I buy. They are about $50. Good time to check the timing chain. A lot cheaper than replacing a crankshaft.

My thought is a cracked piston skirt. Do you notice the noise on the driver's side? I have a 2000 XJ with 280K on it. It ran about 2-3 years with the 'piston slap'. I could only hear it from the LH side. Close to what you describe. My AC compressor is bad. Rebuilt unit, I think is locked up. Anyways, this last summer it was hot. So, I turned on the AC. Wasn't blowing cold, so I turned it off. I was picking up my LS Block from the machine shop. I noticed a clacking. I made it home. I took off the oil pan, hoping for rod bearings. All were tight. I noticed some aluminum pieces in the oil pan. It was piston #6. As posted above, I did check the trans bolt first. I too use Rotella T6. I do not add Zinc. I has about 1200 ppm ZDP. I thought about putting in a used piston or a new one in #6. I finished up my mini-stroker and installed it. My head was actually OK. Don't know if I was replaced before or original. Its not a TUPY. The bores had a lip at the bottom of the stroke. Maybe a block for a full stroker.

There are bracket from IRO that go on the steering knuckles. I have a set, but need to find lights that work with them. It would put them very low.

I don't like the idea of parking lights only. I don't think it is enough light in driving situations. Also, other drivers expect seeing head lights. So, I do see the 'need' for City Lights. I think City Light are mainly used in Cities, as street lamps would provide much of the lighting.

The idea of fog lights is to beam light under the fog. Fog is a low level cloud. So, lower is better. I think it is against the law to have fog lights on when hi -beams are on. In Europe I think they have or had, where the fog lights would come on, but the headlights would come on dimmed. I've also hear this called "City light'. I can see this as an advantage. As sometimes in snow, fog or even rain, I get some glare .

I looked at : Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market Sunrise Foreign Cars & Parts 877-786-1040 has a header panel $150. Has Fenders too. Barefield's has one side for the fenders.

Let me look at Car-Parts Inc. Shipping can make parts expensive. I'll try and see what shipping is on the header panel. I have the grill in Siena, Burgundy. I do have two Sienna front fenders. I'd probably swap them on my XJ. Then give up the Red and Silver Blue ones on the MJ.

Manual or auto? With a manual 3.55 gears should work well with 31's. Auto, 4.10's. My XJ is 2" lift. I really like it. I will be going to 3-1/2, but only as I have the springs and they'd be an upgrade. I was behind a stock XJ a few years ago wheeling. It did well.

I have some fenders. Or I can possibly get some. I'd have to check the condition to some burgundy fenders. Or swap them onto my Comanche and take the fenders from it. Yes, they are 97-01 fenders. I take it I'd be shipping to Guam. What's the best carrier to ship by? Also, the wiring on the Header panel might need new connectors for the headlights. I'll try and check tonight.

Does color matter. I should have a Desert sand header.

Ran acroos a RHD 2000 Jeep XJ 4.0L at Greibe Pnp, nears Myerstown PA. I did pick the belt drive brackets. Interiors gone, except dash and steering wheel.

Your YJ box should be heavier duty than the XJ box. I plan to go that route on an XJ I have. I have used an stock XJ box with 32's. Also the Ironman brace. Mine also had WJ Big Brakes and cross over steering. My present XJ is on 31's. WJ BBs and Cross over steering. Also, A Bad Dad Fab Hidden Winch Mount with Steering Box brace. Excellent steering. That is with a stock box.

I use the Valve cover off a 93-95 ZJ. It has the latter CCV grommets and fittings. I use the latter Tube and fitting to the manifold. Also, the FelPro rubber gasket. I do the Cruiser Tower mods too.

Might try Ozium for the smoker smell.

I've done one or two. I used an Inch-LB dial torque wrench. Some of the instructions go with a mark, then turn 1/2 inch. Also, the shaft may be worn at the seal location. The lock nut should be torqued to 75-ft -lbs. I just put some Loctite on and banged the nut tight. Meaning to make something to tighten the nut and be able to keep the other part in place.

I'd also think the CAT might act like a resonator chamber. I'd run 2.5 on a full stroker. Also, what diameter TB? I'd run at least a 60mm, 62mm would be better. I'm using Brown Dogs, and still have a flex pipe. I used a 'V' band clamp. Really like it.