eaglescout526

That pinch release can be super sticky after years of not opening.

The one on the rear axle, that’s just a shield protecting it.

I’m glad you asked! I went on eBay, searched dodge brake pad sensor, found a NOS one. Then an aftermarket and then it led me down a rabbit hole that they went on an 88-90 dodge dynasty.

Guys!!! I have excellent news!! I have finally found where the brake pad wear sensors go and that there’s new ones available.

You’ll be the only MJ that has it. It’s very doable.

Ahhh. Yeah I know what you’re talking about now.

$400?! Hot damn.

Really? I thought the TBI manual made sense…to me at least.

I had something similar to this. I ended up finding out after replacing my missing caliper pins that the pads were worn completely wrong and resulted in meh braking. I replaced the pads and solved my issue.

EGR shouldn’t hold any vac at all which is what the engine vacuum is for. There’s a solenoid that controls when the EGR gets vacuum or not. Way to test a bad EGR is actually by blowing into it and seeing if any air comes out. If no air comes out, it’s good. If air does, it’s failing. So I was told by a mechanic who was familiar with 70’s and 80’s smog equipment. Another way to see if everything is working alright is to push up on the EGR diaphragm and see if the engine tries to cut out. Now i dont know how to test the solenoid to see if it’s good or bad but I can check some of my literature and see if there’s a way to test it. Usually NOx is an indicator of the O2 getting lazy.

Yes. If it sweeps clearly with no hiccups, it’s good.

That’s because that’s supply voltage to the sensor. If your probing B and C you should see 5v constant regardless of the position. A and B is the input voltage to the ECU so it does know what it’s position is.

I think your reading the voltage supply to the sensor. Good it’s getting 5v but the voltage from A and B is what you’re after. WOT between the two should be between 4.62v and 4.65v.

In the absolute least convenient spot to get a drill bit to. The right (or left depending on how you’re looking at it)side of the pumpkin where the LCA bolts to…

No they’re not. The hardest one though is the front axle and you’re gonna want the front axle too.

Gotta love Renix. It puts you through your paces, tests your wits and even pulls some hair until it just runs.

MPI manual is very useless on the coil…

I’ve completely forgotten about this little detail. That’s usually how I know something is wrong if I don’t see the tach bouncing. I’ll look in my MPFI manual and see if there is something.

What if the CPS is fine and it’s the coil or ICM? Based on what nickintime said, the REM is reading at the end of the problem vs where it is and the ECU is sending the spark signal but the ICM isn’t communicating back or sparking to fire off. The coil and ICM are absolutely fine? That was the next thing I tried when my XJ died on me after I tested the CPS to be fine.

That’s the important part.

That looks like one of the 3 correct spots for it to be mounted and in the correct spot for that style of bracket.

Well. It would be the only working sentry in an MJ and it’s very much doable.

Way to sneak the Eagle in.

Luckily yours is an 89 so there will be a good size list compared to 86-88. But keep in mind to take most codes with a grain of salt as Chrysler reused codes.

When I wish I still worked at a Mopar dealer. @jdog @JMO413