eaglescout526

Really? I thought the TBI manual made sense…to me at least.

I had something similar to this. I ended up finding out after replacing my missing caliper pins that the pads were worn completely wrong and resulted in meh braking. I replaced the pads and solved my issue.

EGR shouldn’t hold any vac at all which is what the engine vacuum is for. There’s a solenoid that controls when the EGR gets vacuum or not. Way to test a bad EGR is actually by blowing into it and seeing if any air comes out. If no air comes out, it’s good. If air does, it’s failing. So I was told by a mechanic who was familiar with 70’s and 80’s smog equipment. Another way to see if everything is working alright is to push up on the EGR diaphragm and see if the engine tries to cut out. Now i dont know how to test the solenoid to see if it’s good or bad but I can check some of my literature and see if there’s a way to test it. Usually NOx is an indicator of the O2 getting lazy.

Yes. If it sweeps clearly with no hiccups, it’s good.

That’s because that’s supply voltage to the sensor. If your probing B and C you should see 5v constant regardless of the position. A and B is the input voltage to the ECU so it does know what it’s position is.

I think your reading the voltage supply to the sensor. Good it’s getting 5v but the voltage from A and B is what you’re after. WOT between the two should be between 4.62v and 4.65v.

In the absolute least convenient spot to get a drill bit to. The right (or left depending on how you’re looking at it)side of the pumpkin where the LCA bolts to…

No they’re not. The hardest one though is the front axle and you’re gonna want the front axle too.

Gotta love Renix. It puts you through your paces, tests your wits and even pulls some hair until it just runs.

MPI manual is very useless on the coil…

I’ve completely forgotten about this little detail. That’s usually how I know something is wrong if I don’t see the tach bouncing. I’ll look in my MPFI manual and see if there is something.

What if the CPS is fine and it’s the coil or ICM? Based on what nickintime said, the REM is reading at the end of the problem vs where it is and the ECU is sending the spark signal but the ICM isn’t communicating back or sparking to fire off. The coil and ICM are absolutely fine? That was the next thing I tried when my XJ died on me after I tested the CPS to be fine.

That’s the important part.

That looks like one of the 3 correct spots for it to be mounted and in the correct spot for that style of bracket.

Well. It would be the only working sentry in an MJ and it’s very much doable.

Way to sneak the Eagle in.

Luckily yours is an 89 so there will be a good size list compared to 86-88. But keep in mind to take most codes with a grain of salt as Chrysler reused codes.

When I wish I still worked at a Mopar dealer. @jdog @JMO413

Well I know the only thing that really makes 86 the bastard years of both XJ and MJ is purely the TBI set up, from my experiences. I’m confident to say that you shouldn’t have a problem using the later booster in a pre 87 body. From what I know of using the dual booster is that it won’t clear the firewall lip and that the push rod mounts differently to the pedal. Otherwise my knowledge stops there. 86 guys feel free to tell me otherwise if I’m wrong. Oh and I guess what makes 84-86 odd is the firewall and the 4.0, hood prop, trans crossmember, horns, radiator support, front header and fenders. Really all the comes to mind.

On my 84 XJ I didn’t notice any differences when I used a 92 booster other than the push rod hole being smaller than the Renix years. I drilled that out and it’s worked great ever since.

From the pics of your front end, I’d do a full rebuild. Cut your losses of what the actual “solution” is and post the components that are possible to your issue and never look back. If this was my truck, I’d do a full front end rebuild, replace all that’s rusty, crusty and cracked with new and drive it. If the issue were to persist after, WE would all know, it’s no longer in the front suspension and you’d have peace of mind knowing that your front is practically all new. Hell! Go the extra mile, clean the axle up, paint it, replace the coil spring isolators if that has never been done. Those isolators help cushion the ride in the body and prevent road noise.

I had my coil contacts at the ICM be dirty and result in no spark condition. If the coil has never been replaced or removed, the contacts are probably dirty and are now causing enough resistance to not spark. Hell we all should be checking our coil contacts if we’re still running original Renix ICMs.

How is the engine eating up the distributor gears? This would have to mean you’d be getting very little oil pressure too until it just stops like how it did on you.

It’s really the same as the GM TBI injectors so those can be snagged stupid easy.

Did the flat blade soldered to the sending unit rust off and away?