eaglescout526

Of course!! That MJ is my baby! I’ll snap all the pics of the colors of the wires here in a bit.

I’m not entirely surprised. I got really lucky to find that as NOS. Without really tearing my harness out to figure it all out at the moment, I haven’t been lucky to find anything in relation to that harness anywhere. I’m gonna check my 86 manual and see if anything is there. But no luck in my 88 or 89 manual.

Oh look! My picture from my 2.5L AC post. Ok so that harness has an in-line circuit breaker and a relay that can be seen. I will go look at my electrical books and see what I can find for ya.

I second getting the injector cleaned. Cheaper than the new one.

Autozone is garbage. Advanced auto is ok Napa was good when I was restoring my MJ Oreillys is a hit or miss. Mostly miss.

Oh no!! It’s great to hear from ya though!

Plug the original ECU back, not all the way back installed, just in and see what happens. Lets rule out the ECU as the issue and hope that youre not gettin spark either from the CPS or the ICM/coil.

Ok. I made your post easier to read. An 86 2.5L. Judging by the sounds of what you did. Replacing the ECU should be the last thing on these Renix era Jeeps. It’s the most reliable and robust component to the injection system. But it sounds like you have now lost spark which means you could’ve fried the coil or the ICM. Do you still have the original ECU?

Sounds like the injector isn’t pulsing. has the pump been tested?

Oh I got one. I’ve been using a ball joint press and a bushing installer kit to press in and out bushings. Been working pretty damn well I will say.

I’m glad to see this Jeep goin again. I find my self doing KJ spotting a these days while looking for XJ and prior.

Time to start the front suspension rebuild…yay. LCA bushings have been done. Track bar, done. Gonna do the UCA bushings on the axle next and inspect the ball joints.

This ↑. Right here is a much better idea honestly.

King Cole Trio is another group you might like. Same era and its early Nat King Cole.

Yes! Probably his most fun rendition of Minnie the moocher.

Good ole Cab Calloway. Can not go wrong with any of his pieces nor his unmistakable voice.

To begin, here’s the two links I absolutely studied the hell out of before doing this mod https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/1992-xj-rke-keyless-entry-upgrade-ir-to-rf-oem-omg.1143482/ https://berlinetta.info/KeylessEntry.htm Before starting any of this I highly recommend you open up the module and inspect the circuit board. I found some light corrosion on mine and gave it a little alcohol bath and scrubbed away the corrosion and made sure my connections were still good. Here’s my notes direct from my notepad on my phone. Keyless entry GM to Jeep* the Jeep Side TRW module side Pink (power)--------------Pink C1d Black (ground)------------Black C2e Black W/tracer (dome lights)-----White C2d Lt Green(lock)------Gray C2c Tan(unlock)-------Tan (there are two tans use only one) C2g Constant power Orange C2f Black/white (ground for remote programming mode) C1a *Note the connector numbers and where each wire goes in the connector and feel free to have the colors match the Jeep side if you’re making your own harness. Copied from jeepforum Programming mode: Once the module is installed, turn the key ignition to "ON" but not "RUN." Ground the Black/white wire. Within a few seconds the door locks will cycle. press and hold BOTH "lock" and "unlock" buttons on the transmitter. The locks will cycle again if and when the remote is accepted. Program any other remotes at this time, this way, as well. Once the ground is removed and the key ignition is turned "OFF," the transmitter data will be stored in the receiver. If the wire is re-grounded, all data will be lost and the remotes will need to be reprogrammed. Well, if you go the RF route for pre-1990 models, I know for sure that it's possible. I think the that key-less entry system consists of four wires. pink - power black - ground tan - unlock (maybe lock, not sure) green - lock (maybe unlock, again, not 100% sure) The fifth wire for the dome lights is not totally necessary. But one should add though. My experience here is for some reason it’s reversed, interior lights should be on for 40 seconds when unlock is pressed and 2 when lock is pressed but not the case. Easy fix, don’t push the lock button on the remote but lock the door from the inside. If you want the lights on, just push lock and then unlock and the lights will be on. Or have fun reversing the relays if you want to dig that out. This is copied from the berlinetta link The 95 set-up allows the user to unlock 1 or both doors. When installed in the 84 ( as described above ) the user can only lock/unlock BOTH doors at the same time. The wire from TRW Plug C1 Pin 'D' should go to a better "switched ignition power" source (usually pink or pink/black in a ThirdGen ) than the brake switch. I've never had a problem with it on the brake switch's pink/black wire, but would go to a better source on my next install Pics I gathered in case the links above ever go dead And this one is for the connectors to note which is connector one and two So I pretty much studied what the author of the original forum post did, made some notes and gathered parts. A TRW module from a 93-95 GM product, key FOB of your choice, in this case a pentastar Chrysler FOB of the same vintage, wire to make your harness from the module to power lock harness, XJ power door harness(preferable early HO if you can source this due to the relays actually being better wired into the power lock system vs Renix. And you can separate the rear doors from the fronts making it easy to install in an MJ), a 12v to 19v step up converter(trust me, you’ll need this for the locks if using a Renix harness) and the following connectors: Metric-pack 150 connector: Metri-pack 280 Connector: And depending on the year of the harness, this metri-pack 150: I am not sure what years have that connector but I know for sure 84-86ish use a molex connector and 88- at least 91 will use that 3 terminal metri-pack 150. (I am aware that format on the phone will look funny) Install is pretty easy and forward. Whats nice about using the keyless harness from an XJ is you wont have to do any splicing. I am almost certain all power door XJs have this harness in the event keyless was to be installed at the dealer. Now if youre just now installing your XJ harness, installing this set up would be highly ideal at this time too so you can properly run the two power wires you need to the fuse block. Now the C1d is the ignition wire, this wire only activates the relay to turn off the interior lights. If you choose not to hook this feature up, you wont need to run that wire. I chose to cause its cool to have the lights still on as youre getting in. Now the only section of the block that I ama aware of that provides the ignition on is going to be the turn signals and cruise control. If you do not have cruise control, used the spot labeled IGN on the block. If you do, well were gonna have to look elsewhere or stick a spade connector in the same connector as the cruise control. Now once you get the wiring where they need to go, highly recommend testing it once you’re at the point where it has power and ready to ground to accept your remotes. If everything is working correctly you should see and hear the locks cycle. If not, the relays in the module will be audible enough to let you know it’s ready for your fobs. If everything is working you can basically start putting things back together and call it a done deal. I ran into the issue where one relay was working and the other one wasn’t. Luckily I had some spares and tested them around to see what was gonna work. Now I did run into other bizarre issues where I could swap the working relay to the other and it wouldn’t lock or unlock at the Jeep side, have both good relays in and stop working, have the good relay work in one spot but not the other. Results honestly will vary here but do not give up diagnosing. It’s pretty easy.

I’ll work on something this evening.

https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/1992-xj-rke-keyless-entry-upgrade-ir-to-rf-oem-omg.1143482/ It’s a GM RF module actually. I did a Google search and found this link. I studied this link and the embedded camero forum link in his post that has the schematics for the harness for about a good week. It’s compatible with the later Chrysler era fobs. I made a whole note pad on it in my phone and studied that too to make sure I get this right. Ideally you want the module from a yard with the connectors. If not they’re simple female end metri pack 150 and 280 connectors. As far as years, it’s very compatible with all of them. You really just need to know where your unlock and lock colors and you need the keyless harness from an XJ. You could free hand it but that would be a royal pain and take too much time. I simply used the keyless set up I already had and just connected into that harness. If needed I could always do a write up of my experience

This is by far really really cool. I was able to tuck the module away behind the lower dash panel. No issues at all. The only one that I’m gonna have an issue with is the fact that the lights stay on for about 40 seconds with the lock button pressed and about 2 when unlock is pushed. I’m not sure how to go about correcting that other than unplugging the wire from the harness and leaving it alone. But the lights to turn off when the ignition is turned on. So I’ll just push the lock button when I feel I need to and use the lock switch inside. But I’m happy with how this turned out, will be a lot more convenient for us.

Love it!

https://youtube.com/shorts/Xy_BDJlGEfI?si=eRCc32E5N1VnzLsf

That’s probably why. But group 78 is good to know.

You got a group 34 in yours? I wasn’t able to get one in my 84XJ