eaglescout526

I was gonna type 16v but I guess I got one that is 19v. But I can’t see it putting out 19v 100% of the time nor getting 19v to every lock solenoid. I mean they are just simple motors.

I used the same exact supply that was recommended for the windows. I’ll probably end up using that too when I add power windows in the future.

I’ll do ya one better.(not to one up, just a simple mod I did before adding my keyless) I did the step up transformer mod thats used for the power windows and applied that to the lock circuit. Granted I did this to my XJ so everything including the hatch will unlock now but ohhhh man do they work. Granted I did try this mod on my MJ when I had the relays, but I ended up deleting the relays and they work good.

Huh? 2.5L with a BA10/5? That can’t be possible. Has to be the AX5.

Well the harness is supposed to help the ECU know when AC is requested as the REM sees it. Which I think is the point in the diode or resistor or breaker or whatever the hell it is at this point. A work around this is to have a idle adjust harness that was part of a campaign that addressed a customer complaint about too much vibration from the 2.5L when the AC is off or on non equipped AC Jeeps. But even that has some sort or resistor or something in it that helps step up the idle. That’s how I got my XJ to work with the AC system that’s installed. There was no way I was gonna be able to make a whole new harness to have the ECU see the AC when I had one of those harnesses.

In our registry. Should be an 87 sub section.

Well to start, if you havent dropped your VIN in the registry, it looks like you got yourself a Metric ton package or someone did the swap. Either way the D44 is desirable. Honestly, These Jeeps are prone to rusting out and it just depends on how bad the rust is and how much time you want to put into this. As far as being an idiot, well purchasing an MJ is far from being one. Now if you bought the most clapped, frame collapsing MJ out there, then yes a smack on the back of the head is warranted as you said. But what I am seeing is just something that had maintenance neglected upon it and was worked like a truck should be. Honestly, once you have all the hard, neglected work done, youll have a good reliable truck to drive around and a rare one that most folks dont recognize and or see anymore. The rarity alone should be enough to put in the work to make it reliable. I am sure others will chime in shortly. More pictures of what youre working with, the better we can help ya further. Oh and the best part, everyone on here is willing to help out.

Ok so that T is correct. Should be main vacuum supply to the EGR, Vac reservoir and 4wd if equipped. The from the reservoir would go to your HVAC and cruise control if cruise is equipped. Fun fact, with cruise control, the football shaped reservoir can only be installed 1 way.

Have you not posted your VIN in here to get more accurate info? Let me go look at my 88 and get back with ya. Rough idle could be anything. Grounds, sensors, dirty connections, bad O2, bad headgasket. Well wiring is pretty easy to fix.

I do my best!! This image has always bugged the hell out of me and its really aggravating cause it doesnt match. Period. Might on the YJ but I have my doubts since the YJ used the 86 set up until 90. If you flip the valve cover orifices to line up with the front, youll have the MJ and XJ set up. The 87 one is the way you want. But!! What year was your MJ built? 86 or 87? If its late 86, I can see them just using what was left at the factory and calling it good. If its 87 then maybe the PO found the wrong diagram and did it wrong.

I never saw the other response after my comment. But I am glad you got it sorted out! As for the vac diagram, its very...well unapologetic to say the least. Its kinda wacky and can be tough to interpret at first. But its also straight forward once you follow where all the lines go, given a PO hadnt messed it up before your ownership.

Yes it should. Either the grey or black connector. There are two that look the same except in color. You probably will find your broken wire in a connector there….I hope.

So the fuel sending unit wire for the pump got hooked and ripped? If that’s what I’m reading, is that wire tan? If it is, it should be under the door sill panel and it should go to one of the 10 slot connectors by the e-brake.

The firewall tag should tell you the acceptable gap. But typically .035 for both engines.

I love the use of a ford exhaust coupler in the build. Truly in AMC fashion.

Could always put a washer or two in to get the castle nut where it needs to be. I have noticed this issue on new joint parts these days.

ooo fun! I’ve been about 3 times and each time is more fun. My wife wants to buy the engineer package for me where you get to ride up with the engineers. Pretty cool. GCRR is pretty fun. They have a steamer and restored coaches in their line up.

Both that and the Grand Canyon RR are both fun adventures.

Damn. That’s extreme. The sentry requires 2. One on the left and one on the right. Can’t be placed in the drums. Now I know there’s a set of dodge and Chrysler cars from 84-90 that use the same sensor just with a different plug which is no big deal and is an easy swap.

No problem!

@Dzimm on here makes some. I tested his set for out here in the intense heat and they did pretty good actually. Still holding up actually. Little loose but I blame the heat mostly on that.

You ever wondered what the holes are for on the inside brake pads? Thats where the sensors goes and clips into for the system sentry.

Ok so the raybestos number EWS6 is the newest and produced version. It fits the following Chrysler: New Yorker, Daytona, dynasty 84-90 Dodge: Lancer, dynasty, Daytona 84-90

This one is for the HO years with the unobtainable thermistor.

I’m asking myself the same question and I’m not gonna complain haha. But you’re right. Not like anyone is restoring that car. Let alone daily driving it. I kinda did though and I’ll take whatever I can scoop up and hopefully have some sensors to last a lifetime. I’ll do a video on where they go soon. I think we all could have a idiot light on our info centers in our MJs let us know when it’s time to change the pads.