eaglescout526

That’s the one thing I forgot to ask the shop for. I remembered the next day that I should’ve asked them for the print out. I’d have no problem taking it back to them. But she steers pretty straight. But that doesn’t mean much.

Yes. Let’s beat the subject down some more….but I’m stumped on this one. Long story short, I had this issue crop up to where the steering wheel would stay clocked the direction I turned. This was with the new reman steering box. I swapped back to my professionally rebuilt steering gear(a seal failed, I replaced it)and it helped a little but oddly the issue remained despite the issue cropping up after the steering gear change. I went through and changed everything(even the 2wd beam!) to new minus control arms and bushings. They’re fine. I changed my coil springs back to my original light duty springs thinking the standard duty ones were too stiff, honestly probably a mistake im about to learn from. I also had an alignment done, the guys said my tie rods weren’t tight enough. they could be right. I didn’t have a torque ratchet to check. Still haven’t. Need to go get my ratchet. Im gonna change back to my standard duty springs. But I’m asking for the think tank of CC to help brain storm why new parts would be giving my DW. Would too tight of nuts on the tie rods cause this? My light duty springs?(after all, they were on when I didn’t have a front skid and AC parts, probably an additional 70lbs on the front) For what it’s worth, it seems entirely suspension related. As soon as I go over say a manhole cover or some bump from a bridge, it triggers. And I’m doing 40-50mph and it doesn’t stop until about 20mph. Thoughts?

I’ll keep you posted. I’ve got a line on two of them right now interestingly enough.

Glad you got it working! Nice to know that is also serviceable.

Have you checked the vac lines running from the firewall at the expansion and heater valves to the reservoir behind the bumper? That controls all vacuum to the vacuum motors.

Might want to run some evaporust through that block.

I have no idea on the aftermarket of those. I’d imagine it’s tough since mercury is toxic.

Isnt that a mercury switch? I know Fords of the same era have the same kind of lamp assembly. Maybe GM ones have the same part as well?

Crappy? Yeah it kinda is, but if anyone happens to upon an XJ with the parts to do a full set up, I am interested in them.

This MJ will forever be eye candy. Can’t get enough of it.

All Things Jeep Comanche - Buy/Sell/Trade | For sale | Facebook If you have facebook, this link should take you to the post.

I found the post. Its in the ATJC buy/sell/trade page. However, there are no photos of the VIN.

Was a black on black MJ....

Easy mi amigo! Haha. I do understand your sentiment for our trucks.

Oh how that never used to ring true. Well Ive heard sensors for the early HO are becoming like Renix parts.

My exact thought when I saw this thread. And most people don’t know they’re blinding you and don’t really care either. You signal your highbeams to let them know your being blinded and they end up cranking up the blindness to 11 with their atomic highbeams.

I haven’t driven her a whole lot. Chunk has taken on daily duties and she is for truck stuff and shows. I have also been waiting to drive her again as I need to replace the sway bar links which I got in. But I’ve got a major cosmetic update Now the two are very close to being twins! Same exact NOS molding kit that I put on chunk except it’s for the MJ.

87 2.5. I wonder if your sending unit is leftover stock for the 86’s.

Yeahhhh those marker lights are taller and skinnier than the regular common marker lights.

The axle shifts anytime you remove more than one control arm. You’ll have to get creative and get the axle angled back to where it was when you removed the control arms. The lowers are pretty easy. The uppers arms are tricky.

Might as well grab the header if it’s still there. I have my doubts given it has the marker lights. But those alone fetch a pretty penny.

Yup. This is what I used on my locks.

I forgot where I saw it, I think I have the link on my computer still. But it was in the XJ preservation society and a guy bought a little step up transformer for his windows and I said that could work on the locks.

I was gonna type 16v but I guess I got one that is 19v. But I can’t see it putting out 19v 100% of the time nor getting 19v to every lock solenoid. I mean they are just simple motors.

I used the same exact supply that was recommended for the windows. I’ll probably end up using that too when I add power windows in the future.