eaglescout526

Lol! I would love some pics of this since ive got the 207 in my XJ. I didnt think you could remove the speed gear unless you removed the tail shaft of the 207.

JBWeld is pretty good too.

That logo insert is better anyways haha. Im just biased.

Yeahhhh thats a special hell we have to endure. Wait, did you actually get the electric speed sensor on the 207?

I found the magazine on eBay. There’s a couple. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404923501340?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7gCIrKjYTsi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=n7myxbO3SYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/256878650342?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=M2p114lmQOe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=n7myxbO3SYC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

No. I probably will this evening.

I need this now. Haha.

The 87-96 clusters have a pot on the tach that can be adjusted and more than likely read a V8

Oh yeah!! Duh, course how often is anyone taking that spacer out of their Jeep? Most of us probably dont even know we have one there till we replace the steering gear.

4wd light actually. Mounts by the blower motor on the pass side. I am curious as to what that plastic thing is.

I do not remember what we were replacing on my dads F150 Harley truck but it was something that was a nightmare to replace and put us in little bit of a pickle. I literally have done a good job to not remember that haha.

I have never ever seen either of those two be involved with the reverse lamps. I know power goes to the switch, to the trans fuse and out to the lamps. As to what connectors, I am not sure but that can’t be right with what you have.

I know the dryer and o-rings need to be replaced for the 134 conversion. Condenser I have heard you can use the old one but should convert. You can keep the existing valves on the compressor, you just need to get the 134 adapters.

4.0 or 2.5?

Could’ve. This is the original TPS to my MJ. Which makes sense why I at one point would have power, then lose it and so on. I broke one of the fingers putting it back together. Really tricky with that spring. But I’m gonna test the voltage aspect at least and see if the cleaning worked.

Not sure if anyone was curious what goes on inside of these but I think I found out why these fail Or well be intermittent when working and sending voltage. I do not know what is on the inside but I can speculate this is why these fail or become working intermittently.

Made a new topic.

Early 87’s still had the front hood prop

It’s tough to say at the moment before heading into work. I know the buzzer is on a circuit with a fuse. I think dome lamp. And I also know that the door switch is attached with the key in section. If Ωhm doesn’t chime in before I, I’ll pull the electrical manual out.

Sounds similar to my issue. Very similar. But baffles me as on my MJ, it would go into closed loop, make driving really weird like almost kill the engine weird and then go into open loop and stay rich just to keep going. That’s my initial thought as well. Sucks but I guess I’ll be burning through what I have left faster.

It’s exactly what I’m thinking. What pisses me off about all this is the sensor is new, NOS but it’s barely seen any miles. Yup! Still been trying to figure out how to put a gauge on either but it’s been a bottom of the list thing.

As far as I can tell without trying to gather some adaptors and a gauge to put on the “rail”, it seems fine. I did have the issue of the fuel pump failing but reading the REM showed me the O2 switch slowly and then stop switching all together. I think at this point I’ve confirmed it to be the O2

Anyone had the O2 do funny things to drivability? I could be chasing nothing here but the REM shows me when in closed loop, it rarely switches to rich and more or less stays lean. Then it jumps into open loop and stays stuck on lean. Isnt Renix supposed to swap to rich when in open loop? Anyways I can basically restart my XJ, drive for a bit and then back to driving issues like I am running out of fuel. Anyone have anything similar? I will swap the O2 out but never seen this be an issue. I have seen it to where it warms up and just decides to not work at all but still do the rich lean swap like it should. But then it would go into open loop and be able to drive fine.

Sounds like a good plan!

Those arent special like the Renix CPS bolts are they?