eaglescout526

Fog lights will work correctly once your headlights work. So long no major modifications to the factory harness or the way AMC designed it is altered to where they won’t work in conjunction with your headlamps.

What Ωhm said.

No. Trans and fog lamp are the same exact switch used.

It should tilt back with every bolt removed and come out. If need to, you could unbolt the window glass, lower it gently to rest in the door and the wing window should come out by then.

I actually did some digging on this. I looked at the stuff I have been using. It’s valvoline high performance 75-90. Which matches both GL4 and 5 specs but doesn’t have the acid and sulfur that the synthetic oil has. Which makes sense why my transmissions are fine.

Id like to rescind my comment about the brass synchros. I tokk apart a spare AX4 I had and sure as rain, theyre brass...Im a little stunned actually. Not sure what the whole issue is with GL5 oils other than clearly being acidic.

All good! Just had to make sure. Thread has been moved for ya.

Question, are we going to learn how to build a trailer or is this a members other project kind of thread?

Added a internal slave cyl.

Im pretty sure the 4 and 5 do not have brass synchros. And if they do, well I’ve been running modern GL5 for 5 years now just fine. Now the 15 on the other hand does and somehow this word of caution transferred to the 4 and 5. I did how ever do some digging into this discrepancy and found the TSB but only pertained to the 15. Not the 4 or 5.

You can use GL5 in the AX 4 and 5 just fine. I run it in both of my 5's. Even the AMC cheat sheet I have calls for GL5 75-90.

I updated the first post to reflect your findings.

It’s at wide open throttle. So you’ll have to have something hold the throttle open while you do the adjustments.

No it’s output voltage to the ECU. The acceptable range is 4.62v-4.65v for proper adjustment. I always set mine to 4.63 or 4.64. Nice middle ground.

There’s actually a different adjustment procedure for the 2.5L than the 4.0L in cruisers tips. I really need to go and find the tips to tell 2.5Ls to advise against that tip. The TPS output voltage at WOT should be about 4.63v.

Welcome to the 84-86 years.... my D35 on my 84 is the same way with the torx... luckily none are stripped but damn does it terrify me to open it up. Also thats interesting with the registration. I dont think our 84 showed up as an AMC.

Discovered this gem today Yeah! 6 month old clutch disc just broken. Not sure how or why but just broke. Not even from China either. Looks like it was made in Brazil. Guess I put the old one in and run it for a little while.

Soooo I shouldn’t be using the front axle anymore? That’s what I’ve been doing with no problems. Course I suppose jacking by the front axle risks possible bending and stress.

They do a great job actually! The design is more for the OEM window but hey, I got it to work and can’t complain about the functionality.

84-86 standard 4wd equipment. Can be found behind the 2.5L and 2.8L. This one is the Command-trac case. The NP228/9 is the selec-trac case that can be found behind only the automatics in 84-86. 87 and up saw the change to the 231 and 242 cases. My 84 XJ has the 207, its pretty standard, nothing beefy or special there. But what I cant help but notice is mine has the CVT style mounting flange for the front diff on my case. Which means yours just has a double cardan joint that bolts in on yours. Wonder which is the better set up.

Correct. 84-86 clusters are based on an old standard across all companies before the newer style. Tach signal is based on ignition pulse from the coil(Renix). Not sure about HO but it could be the same. Renix relies on the CPS to run the coil to send spark out. The ECU controls the injector pulses and pulses fuel even if the coil isnt sending spark. This doesnt make sense. If its from a Renix and reads at 88 Ωhms when full and 0 when empty, its Renix. 0 full and 105 empty is HO. Now the fuel sending units (FSU) between XJ and MJ are different. The MJ sits more into the tank than the XJ one. The XJ FSU with sock faces to the right when in the tank and the MJ faces to the left. But you shouldn't have to add anything to get the gauge to work. It will just plug n play. its the oil and temp gauges that you need to switch from switches to sensors. Honestly, if youre turned off about using a full 84-86 cluster, do be. You can just get the 86 speedo cable and put it in. Now I do say to be turned off by the 86 cluster because of the age and problems that I have observed with the clusters. 1. The lamination to keep the printed copper circuit in place is failing hard on these and no one makes any new ones. 2. The tachs are not adjustable but most tachs can be found behind the V6 anyways so youre good there. But the capacitors and resistors might be failing on the tach board. 3. The bulbs can be a pain to get working right. Now heres one nice thing about the 84-86 gauges, they just plug in and dont get screwed in like the later clusters where you can damage the winding on the guage.

Interesting. Well with 92's not being common, this could be something new for us.

Yes the spring is broken. It broke when the cutaway was being made. 86-92 valves are all the same.