eaglescout526

Closer than what I thought.

Isnt the 97-01 washer bottle in the fender? But I dont see why not. The overflow is as close to the radiator support as it gets.

You’re probably the first and only person to ask about specs of fuel line. If it was me I’d probably just run what I bought without knowing the specs except if it’s fuel injection rates hose or not.

I mean not having that stand won’t make it break anything. But it might make installation 10x easier or a little bit harder. Just run it.

You’ll have to change almost everything if you’re going to HO swap(Minus the engine if you’re keeping Renix). But I don’t know much about those swaps. Anywho if you do, cluster, sending unit and you’ll need a speed sensor to work with the cluster. But I think you can keep the Renix cluster and use the 92 harness as I think the speedo has its own plug? I could be wrong. Also depends on the Renix cluster you have. 3 clusters carried over to HO. The full red and black cluster package The 5/6 blue cluster package and the idiot lights

If I remember 3.47 is a reused code that’s for the modern Jeeps with the D44’s. 3.55 would be damn near too low for the AW4. 4.10 would be about correct and maybe 4.56 but 4.56 was found with the Chrysler 900 series 3 speed. But then again we are talking about AMC, where my 84 XJ has 3.55(front and rear) 5spd manual NP207 and it can keep up, but can be a smidge slow.

90 was the first year for bench with headrests. Not common since everyone jumps at the chance to swap to buckets.

You found a hen with teeth

No problem and I hope so for the HO but I can’t see Chrysler really changing that one around.

A. Black/Ground B. Tan/Gauge C. Orange/Power Renix is E=0 and F=88-90 HO is E=105 and F=0

Lol. I say yes it does do a pretty good job. I only got to experience the R12 for a little bit before it all leaked out and they’re pretty similar in performance. I think the only issue is gonna be cooling the condenser probably which might result in my putting a e-fan on it to help force air though. We will see.

At least you’re not me where you remember ever bolt size needed to remove the trans and have it down and out in 30 min. That being said, I bought a clutch that was the OEM from a manufacture that AMC and Chrysler used. I probably ran that clutch for ohhh less than 6 months and had it installed for almost a year until it failed. The metal that retains the springs, one of mine failed, cracked and sent a spring flying. You just might find exactly that.

Almost a need for survival. Took him for a drive, got constant 40* out the vent. I was also literally able to pull the condenser out and blow all the dust and remnants of Washington out of it, thanks to the flexible hoses.

Pic? Probably coolant temp for the ECU or knock

Little update. Got death wobble again. I think its the Mopar track bar finally giving up which is good cause I feel I got my money's worth out of it now. I lost the charge in my AC again. This time I had a slow leak which ended up evolving into a fitting I completely missed on the tightening when I first installed AC! I was surprised and dumbfounded by how I missed that fitting yet impressed with how long it held on and held the pressure before death wobble knocked it out. It still had charge when I tightened it as some leaked out while doing so. Thats good news and meant I didnt need to have it vacuumed down and could just add more 134. Now it blows ice cold once again. Might do an efan set up when I have the funds to do so. I also smacked a construction pylon with my pass side mirror. Luckily Dzimm's clip for the mirror bit the dust but I had another, installed it and back in business! Thats all for now. Might try a modified CPS on her in the future to see if theres any performance gain like on the 4.0L.

Got the AC dialed in finally! After rigorous research, consulting my manuals and a weird tip to treat RB-276 as R12, I was finally able to get it to produce 40* air. Woot!! Couple factors, you cant clear the sight glass with 276 to get good performance which thankfully I didnt do....yet. And hooking a manifold up was able to help me dial in the adjustable expansion valve. Its the little things, but this one feels major for out here.

86-87. Black wasn’t an option on 84-85.

For sanity sake, you got the right sending unit right? Renix? All I can think of is the windings for the rheostat for the float is either damaged or has dirty contacts between the windings and float arm. I recently ran into that issue actually.

Yup. Only the 16 and 23 are the same externally. I think the easy answer for a lot of AMC's reasons is cost.

Its not though. 16 and 23 are the same externally. 18 is smaller than the 23/16 gallon tank and for the short beds only. Were talking about AMC here. They did the same exact thing with the XJ by offering a 13 gallon tank and a 20 gallon and its the exact same externally.

Costs. Its cheaper to put a baffle in a tank with higher capacity than it is to make a new tank. 18 gallon tank had to be made specifically for the short box

Youre thinking of the 18 gallon tank.

Factory bed rails. Nice.

I may have some of the smaller parts. I know I have a few bumper brackets.

Well it turns out I never took any pictures of the sending unit. But I swear it took the Bosch pump just fine with no modifications and looks like the one from my XJ. It also has the straight pipes like the XJ unit.