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I have used a YJ module. Worked just like the MJ one

When AMC designed it, it wasn’t based on an opinion. Those of us who do/don’t want to put it back give opinions . I removed about 30% of the floor bracing on my last build also

Should be red wire is battery source, orange with black is fuel pump feed. You can verify by referencing the bulkhead connector pinout found here: Disconnect the battery and clean out that connector thoroughly. You can replace the grease with dielectric grease found at auto parts and electrical supply stores. You can get new pins from various sources but I tend to get all my electrical parts from either Mouser electronics or Painless Wiring. The actual bulkhead connector is a standard GM part. Contact painless and they can help if you need new pins. Its the same bulkhead connector they use in many of their harnesses (you can reference part number 10111 which is for a YJ and uses the same connector). I believe there are a few posts on here (check the DIY section) about how to install a pin back into the bulkhead connector. You will need a new pin and a way to crimp it to the wire. As for the clutch master cylinder hardware, the lower mounting point is a stud that is attached to the clutch pedal assembly that goes through the firewall. The upper is a bolt that goes into a threaded insert but you could just use a bolt and nut for the upper mount.

I wouldn’t go so far as to say that bracing is inconsequential. We have no hard data to know the actual results of removing the brace based on the usage of the truck. Kind of reminds me of the control arm reinforcement that is MJ specific. XJ’s don’t have this bracing and most likely any who remove it from their MJ will not notice any immediate ill effects. For the “floor bracing” It can’t be so critical that removing it will cause the car to fold in half, but the effects with a heavy load, a front end collision or even repeated off-road flexing haven’t been really determined as far as I know. It’s good to remember the purpose of that brace: stiffen the unibody rail due to the addition of the bed frame which starts inside those rails under the floor. And again, these trucks are not over-engineered by a long shot. There is a definite reason why amc choose to stamp out new sheet metal parts to reinforce that area. It is not an “optional” part that was only on a metric ton mj and so forth. You’ll find that bracing even on a little 4 banger 2wd short bed. If you’re going to remove it, assume that there very likely will be consequences in certain scenarios. If you have a press brake, forming that brace would be quite easy. However, spot welding it all the way through to the lower unibody will be a challenge for any who don’t have a high end long reach spot welder. To the OP, start removing your flooring and see how far the damage goes. Remove that dash pad and look carefully at all the seam sealer. Remove any sealer that is wet or loose. I hate to say it but you may find that the extent of damage is far worse than what is visible in the pics. Hopefully that is not the case.

Backlash set to .008 carrier bearing preload adjusters set to 70lbft each. Air locker installed. Ring gear bolts set to 55lbft with blue loctite after removing all oil from threads and bolts. Bulkhead fitting tapped and air line routed.

Most definitely! I have set up a great many diffs though. I think this will be about my 20th

I know some have asked about how to setup gears on an 8.25. Here are some pics of the adjusters that screw into the carrier bearing journal. You use a long wrench through the axle tube and use them to set your backlash then preload. A very simple and effective design. As I was going through the shop, I also realized I had an extra D30 ARB clone locker (made in China). It’s in the classifieds now if anyone is interested.

Axle building time

Have you had a chance to pull that firewall pad? You’re probably just going to have to tear things apart and see how far the damage goes to get a game plan. Iirc key parts was going to repop the floor brace as well. A quality spot weld cutter is priceless for getting things apart cleanly. This thread has some fantastic detailed information and pictures on the overall design and some ideas on how to repair various degrees of rust damage:

That’s settles it then . Let us know how it works out for you

As an alternative, you could return them and go with some aftermarket control arms. A high quality wheel spacer properly installed is an option as well. Just some alternatives if you don’t want to cut the bushings. Core4x4 makes some nice control arm sets along with many other manufacturers. You could also adjust the steering stops on the knuckles but will obviously loose turning radius.

I haven’t found too many places on these MJ’s that were “over engineered” from the factory. That being said, there are a few that have removed the bracing. I personally wouldn’t remove it without installing some alternate bracing

This is what’s unique about the MJ floor pan. This bracing is installed on top of the floor pan and is supposed to act as reinforcement to the bed frame which is sandwiched inside.

Hear many a horror story about the gov-lok lockers in those Volvos but no first hand experience. The pins engagement design seems like it could sheer off though or at least give a lot of trouble. Seems we had a thread going about these recently

ASD relay? Not sure if Renix had that or not

I’d love to see a new tailgate.

Very true. Even on open systems, a leak prevents pressure buildup which is essential to a properly functioning cooling system. So a leak in any part of the pressurized side of an open loop cooling system will cause on overheat as well

This kk02108@gmail.com

I think you’ve found your heating problem or at least a major contributor. If you can smell coolant, you need to track down where that is coming from. If the system can’t build pressure, it won’t effectively cool. Even a tiny leak can keep you running hot

All raptor liner up to the firewall is complete. The only items left to coat are the front wheel wells and the underside and inside of the bed. Was going to work on the front end next but the rear leaf spring bolts were completely seized in the spring. So I’ll have to work on the springs and might as well do the rear axle since there’s no reason not to at this point. Rear axle is a KJ 8.25 with disks and 3.55’s. Will remove all the bracketry and install the ARB along with new brakes and bearing/seals. Also have a non disco HP30 front along with bracket gussets and another ARB. Might just do both at the same time. Give the raptor liner plenty of time to fully cure

Second coat complete. Under cab is finished.

Underside just received the first coat of Raptor Liner. 60 mins to recoat time. I didn’t want any black liner under the hood as I’m going to do full body work under the hood and paint it the same as the exterior. The wheel wells will be Raptored as well. Getting ready to drop the rear axle to shoot back there then I’ll put it back in place so I can roll it around, I’m shooting the Raptor outside and will move to the paint booth once I finish with the liner.

Thanks! Started on pillar foam today. I’ve pointed out some strategic areas for pillar foam. Been spending a huge amount of time on the bottom of the truck. I hand scraped every square inch under the truck and removed every drop of undercoating/grease/dirt. Then I degreased and blasted it all twice. Used compressed air and blew out anywhere water can pool up. Will let it thoroughly dry overnight then scuff it all up, touch up any bare metal, seam seal any vulnerable areas, POR-15 then raptor line the bottom.

The paint is being mixed up now. Going with AkzoNobel base and clear.