DesertRat1991

Spotted this one on FB: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2710962195819527/

Nice piece... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1992-Jeep-Comanche-MJ-Lund-Cab-Sun-Moon-Cab-Lighted-Visor-NOS-85-86-89-92-/194193069981?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Another vote for distributor. Truck would shut down while driving and not seem to restart until it cooled down. Replaced he dizzy with a reman from O'reilly's. That one lasted 6mos before taking a dump. Swapped it out under their lifetime distributor warranty. That 2nd unit has lasted 4 years now, trouble free. The lesson here is don't overlook the distributor just because you replaced it recently. They are pretty much all remans with chinese sensors these days. Just look for the best warranty available.

Managed to fit 26 bales of pine straw under the cap... Then, popped the top off to haul mulch. I have the guy dump a full yard right on top of my 5gal buckets which makes unloading a breeze. It's the quickest and least back-breaking way to dump each load right where I need it so I can run back for more. She hauled 6yds total without breaking a sweat.

First aid, fire ext and a tool bag. The factory bottle jack is in the tool bag with a few other useful items. My spare is mounted in the stock location so I gotta keep that winch cranking tool in there at all times. All other gear is in the bed mounted tool box.

There is also a transfer case skid plate that runs from the unibody rail to the transmission crossmember. Here's one on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-2001-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Comanche-MJ-Factory-Transfer-Case-Skid-Plate-/164631224399?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Pics..?

Is that style of bump yankable? I don't see the indentations in the cup that would hold the base in place. I think that's the molded style. This style is yankable and you can insert KJ09101BK into the cup. The indents will secure the base of the new bump stop into the cup:

+1 for 265/75R16 These are essentially 32x10.5. They will fill out your wheel wells just like the 32x11.5s but the narrower track will minimize rubbing. As wheels go, most stock 15" wheels are 5.5" backspacing. One of the reasons I switched from 15" Ravines to 16" Moabs is because the Moabs have 5" BS which pushes the wheel outboard without the need for spacers. You gain a half inch of clearence to further reduce rubbing issues. According to my eyeball, a 10.5" tire on a wheel with 5" BS seems to be the limit if you are at all concerned about keeping the tires under the stock fender flares. 32's on stock gearing will be no fun.

Yeah... they sold that truck to a guy in North Carolina who has been trying to flip it on FB for like $18,000. He's a member here.

Well, that's an important detail. All my previous comments pertained to XJ/MJ platform. You are probably aware there are quite a few different versions of NP242 used across eras and model lines. A period correct, NP242J for our trucks would have a 2-pin switch (P/N 83503525) on the rear case-half near the mechanical speedo sensor. All previous comments regarding connecting to the XJ/MJ harness apply. Looks like the ZJ xfer case has a 4-pin switch on the front case-half which means it doesn't pick up the signal from the same place. I can't venture a guess as to how it works (never owned a ZJ), and I haven't personally frankenstein'd a 4-pin switch to a 2-wire harness. Also looks like input shaft length on the ZJ case is different too. Just something to watch out for. Best bet would be to grab the necessary parts from a XJ/MJ donor vehicle.

The NP231 and NP242 use different switches, with different connectors to control the 4WD lights. The transmission harness should include connectors for both models. On NP231 equipped models, the NP242 connector is typically just tucked up and out of the way. Once you find it, you need to connect a separate 2-wire jumper harness to connect the transmission harness to the NP242's switch. Since you are currently 2WD, you will likely need to install bulbs behind the "Part Time" and "Full Time" indicator panels in the dash. Here's a pic of the NP242 jumper harness you need. Wires are red/black and yellow/gray. It would be very easy to make if you can source the right weather pack connectors:

I'm running the IRO double sheer with the flex joint. All the IRO stuff is well built. I ran for about a year with the original frame side poly bushing before adding the flex joint. IMO, the flex joint transfers slightly more vibration into the frame while not really adding a whole lot in terms of performance. It's not like it magically unlocked another inch or 2 of flex. The poly bushing worked fine. It's possible that guys with more extreme lifts might see greater benefits, but with my mild lift, if I had to do it over I'd keep that $50 bucks in my pocket and preserve some ride quality.

Did the factory ever put the 4x4 logo in that spot? When were those pocket doors first available?

This chart is helpful. You want EYE/EYE shocks for the rear. Measure your distance between upper and lower rear shock mounts with the truck sitting at current ride height. Then, look at collapsed and extended shock lengths in the table below. You want your measurement to fall somewhere in the middle. The distribution of uptravel vs downtravel is your preference.

This is a plug & play installation on the 91+ trucks. All connectors are present in the harness and no extra sensors required. Without A/C, the aux fan activates around 230deg and shuts off at 210deg. IMO, these trucks should have never left the factory without an aux fan.

OEM pipe was crushed on my '91 . Currently running Walker piping without the crush.

Pro tip: Don't pay full price. These things are very popular right now and they go on sale every few weeks. If your need isn't urgent, set an Amazon price alert and just wait a bit for the next 20-30% off sale.

+1 We may think we have it bad, but the CJ and FSJ guys have it worse: CJ Mud Flaps ($950) FSJ Mud Flaps ($800)

Kobalt 24v compact 1/2" is my favorite junkyard tool. I prefer a pneumatic impact for heavy duty work.

Call IRO. Tell them you want to order a complete XJ Lift kit minus the leaf springs. I think they make 2", 3", 4" and 6" kits. Then buy your leafs separately from any reputable source.

4.10 is def not the max that is possible. ECGS has them all the way up to 5.89. How big a tire do you have in mind?

You snagged the whole sending unit? Looking to sell it? Without the engine and electrical bits this discussion narrows quite a bit. One thing that comes to mind is that the 91+ drag link is the same beefier version that is on the ZJ. It would be an upgrade for older trucks if its in decent shape.

A 1990 model likely has a CAD axle up front. Your time & effort would be better spent looking for a non-CAD high pinion D30. Nice score on the D44!

You just blew my mind with that video link... I had no idea that smart @$$ from YT was the same guy that makes the RENIX engine monitors!