DesertRat1991

Is there a dipstick o-ring on the 2.5? My 4.0 didn't have one. The tube was just press fit into the hole. That said, when it started leaking I pulled the tube and sealed that junction with a bead of hi-temp RTV silicone. Problem solved.

What happens when you turn the aux fan on? Does it bring your temps down and keep them down? Or does it continue to overheat?

+1 But OP, don't just bleed it looking for bubbles. It's time to replace your fluid, followed by a proper bleeding. Clutch fluid is hydrophobic. Over time, moisture diffuses into the fluid through the various rubber hoses and seals. As the moisture content of your old clutch fluid increases, the boiling point of the fluid goes down. In short, boiling is bad. And it means your clutch won't work as well after the system heats up.

I have four Craftsman 3-ton stands that have served me well for nearly a decade. They are plenty good for supporting the axles. For frame support I use the Torin Big Reds which are pretty highly rated on AMZ: Torin Big Red Steel Jack Stands: 6 Ton Capacity, 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CODPF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tSHbBbJC0BRWV

So by 1992, you could get a short bed with metric ton package from the factory? Interesting.

Snag the tail gate handle at least. They are being listed for $100+ on FB. Rear bumper end caps sell pretty good too.

I use this one too. And have the same problem with that dinky rubber flap not staying closed.

How weird, only a fragment of my post got uploaded. That was supposed to be a post about rotating the crank to TDC, and marking the rotor position, before pulling out the distibutor. There is no need to mark the dist position relative to the block since the locator tab ensures it only bolts down one way.

I always start by putting a socket in the end of the cranksh

Is it possible to retrofit an oil cooler to the AX-15?

The FM50 is pretty smooth up top. And I actually think the sound quality improved when I put the cat back in. Seemed to clean up the raspiness which I wasn't digging at all.

I always recommend planning a build in evolutions because chasing lift and flex an inch at a time is the most expensive and unwise way to do it. IMO, your plan will net you only marginal improvement over what you have now. For example, my 3" coils unseat at 4" of down travel and you look pretty close to that already. You are going to want more spring to make any more DT useful. Your next most worthwhile evolution is 4.5" or up.

Truck is looking great! Which sliders are these?

Does more oil capacity allow you to go longer between oil changes? If not, seems like this just makes your regular oil changes more expensive.

What coil springs did you choose for the front?

Have you fubar'd it worse than before? Post a picture of the current situation.

Great story and a great lookin truck! Welcome aboard man! Polish up that chrome tailgate handle and display it proudly. Those are hard to come by.

The temperature sensor on top of the engine near the firewall is brass and hollow as well. I accidentally snapped it off and was pretty much left with your situation in the picture below. I was able to tap a short allen wrench into the hollow shell and the hex points were able to get enough bite in the brass to spin out what was left. Good luck.

Matt has commented on several occasions that BleepinJeep is his full time job. He has also mentioned his professional background is in graphic design and photography. I wouldn't expect him to be sharing content anywhere for free. You gave Matt an ear full about how he puts food on the table? He's a fool for paying X amount, for Y components, for project Z? Those are some strong opinions. You must be watching his channel. That's called the Howard Stern Effect -- when even the haters can't stop watching.

How strange. A+ thread!

Nice... click for build sheet... https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/92-4x4-jeep-comanche-47l/6560853600.html

This is pretty much the Comanche project on the BleepinJeep YT channel. Cut off the x-frame, then replace with a tube frame and custom 4 link.

Why is there such a demand for speaker brackets? Do they rust? I've never removed the trim panel to look back there.

Your control arms have heim joints at the axle side. Your axle has the potential to be more askew than most at this stage. Don't expect anything to line up straight until you get some weight on the springs, your track bar bolted up and axle centered.

Thanks. And yah, I know the feeling. Moved out here from NY a few years ago. Couldn't find a decent MJ till I moved out west.