DesertRat1991

I also have the screw in type and need a longer set. Does anyone know if the MJ uses the same OEM scew-in bumpstop as the TJ? If so, these *might* work: 1997-2006 TJ Extended Bumpstop - Daystar

Nice truck! What's the mileage look like?

Why do you need new leaf springs? Are any of them broken? If they are just sagging -- and you don't want to spend money on a new set -- you might be able to have them re-arched to bring them back to stock specs for less than the cost of a new set. Call around to some 4x4 / axle shops and see if they can point you in the right direction.

There was one posted in the Good, Bad and Rusty thread a week or two ago... https://mohave.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-comanche-roll-bar/6383048803.html Ad doesn't say if this is a LWB or SWB bar. Fastenal is a good place to look fOr shipping things like this.

Long bed or short bed? Is your proportioning valve intact or not? With a 30" tire, I have zero clearance between the tire and proportioning valve bracket. They are touching.

The man is talented without a doubt, but that thing has about as much Comanche in it as Elizabeth Warren.

Telling us the backspacing doesn't help without knowing the wheel offset and width, and the tire width. Stock XJ wheels are typically backspaced at 5.25" - 5.5". Reducing backspacing to 4" would (in theory) increase clearance between wheel and suspension but doesn't tell us how much further inboard/outboard the aftermarket wheel would be compared to a stock wheel.

Thanks KB! Looking forward to mounting up a hitch soon!

Junkyard tool thread?? I love this thing: Kobalt 24-Volt Max 1/2-in Drive Cordless Impact Wrench Compact, powerful, and reasonably priced. And it's marked down an extra 20% for Black Friday.

Bring a flashlight and have a good look around under the truck. Check for leaks from front and rear diffs, transfer case and transmission. Thirty years is a long time, make sure Bubba didn't do something stupid like remove the front drive shaft or something. Make sure everything is present and accounted for. Idle the truck and shift through the XFR case modes. Verify the "Part Time" lamp in the cluster illuminates as intended when in 4H and 4L and turns off in 2WD. Generally speaking engaging 4WD while driving on dry pavement is not recommended, but if you choose to perform a rolling test keep the truck in a straight line. You should be able to engage 4H smoothly on he fly. It's best to come to a dead stop before engaging 4L. Rolling a few yards in a straight line should be enough to ensure the system is engaging properly and shouldn't hurt anything. Clunks, thunks, rattles, and jams would be signs of trouble. Beyond that, standard "30 year old Jeep inspection criteria" apply.

Tough one. You might be able to cut it off using a Dremel snake attachment with a cut-off wheel. But then you would also need a source of power like one of those portable jumper boxes with a 120V outlet.

Another great contribution! Thank you..! Observation: Seems like the past year or so has brought an upswing in resale values and it's bringing survivors out of the wood work. This thing is beautiful: https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/all-original-1990-jeep/6396087957.html One owner, 50,000mi. Wow. Were running boards ever a factory option??

Go with a 30" tire instead. Less weight, less torque loss, less speedo error, only 1/2" less ground clearance. And if you stick to 9.5" wide you are less likely to have interference with the control arms when turning.

Had today off from work and good ole' Tom Turkey stopped by to give me a hand (wing?) installing my C4x4 tow hook brackets. Install was a bit tricky at times, but it all came together nice and sturdy. For the record -- if the trimming of the air dam looks a little wonky in certain places, it's because I let the turkey run the Dremel...

Beat them to the punch -- take one wheel off and leave the axle on a cinder block. How many thieves carry a spare trailer wheel around with them??

'91 Owners Manual also says Mopar fluid/ 75W90 (API GL-5). But, I ultimately went with Redline MT-90 GL-4 after sifting through feedback on various forums. Very happy with the results. It's difficult stuff to find locally, but Amazon prime will get you a large bottle in 2 days.

Well, regarding more traffic in the pub... it's kind of weird that "popular threads" are archived alone in what amounts to a graveyard subforum. Many of them haven't been bumped in months. Suggestion: Reboot the "What did you do to your Comanche today?" thread as a sticky in the main Pub. On other forums, that usually works well as a place for members to post pics of various mini-mods and fix it projects. Things that don't really warrant a full build thread.

Maybe a rotation of "recent uploads" from the member photo galleries?

The center pin is peened over during manufacturing to prevent the nut from falling off. The U-bolts will compress the pack so there is no movement of the overload leaf. Your springs are fine. Paint them if you want.

No reason to be stumped. Stop buying random parts. Fix the gauge cluster. Have the truck tell you what's wrong. In the first 4.5mins of this vid he goes over how to remove the cluster and where the bulbs are: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGoSKgT2cJQ

Since this is The Pub, I'll just add check your local laws. This is illegal in some states. In AZ, all rear facing lights must be red, except the license plate lights and backup lights. And, we can't have more than 2 backup lights. Depending on your state you may need a way to cover them or flip them down during on-road use.

Well worth it!

Yes, there is a relay. Helpful link for troubleshooting fan issues: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Cooling/Electric_Fan_Diagnosis.htm

Nice truck. I thought they had stopped installing idiot lights by '92.

Poly bushings will be stiffer and more durable but may contribute to a slightly harsher ride feel. Plus, they require a little bit of upkeep to keep the squeaks and creaks away. You have to keep them greased. For a retired gentleman such as yourself, who presumably might appreciate a smooth, quiet ride with no upkeep I would recommend the rubber bushings. The spring pads are so cheap that it is worth getting the OEM part. Try either of these links: https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Jeep_1992_Comanche/ISOLATOR-Upper-Spring--ISOLATOR-Upper/6912750/52000229.html https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=52000229 You might have trouble finding MJ shackles with rubber bushing. The JKS shackles are popular but come with poly bushings. My IRO shackles also came with poly and I have no complaints.