DesertRat1991

Not mine. Spotted while browsing. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1463729223958692/

Nice score. Value is hard to measure for items that are rarely ever for sale.

It's very common for those components to seize up. Heat and muscle can make a difference. But honestly, trying to separate them is hardly worth the headache when there are so many good aftermarket kits that include a new frame bracket with the trackbar. Consider unbolting the whole assy from the frame and swapping to a double shear setup.

Need is subjective. You are definitely gonna feel the difference. Especially, if you are stepping up from stock 26.5" tires. 4.88's will return you to near stock performance.

This.

Nice truck! Welcome aboard!

DD is a Mazda 6. The Comanche is the only pick-up truck in our household which is one of the reasons why the build has stayed fairly mild. I love hitting the trails, but ultimately the MJ needs to stay practical enough for running truck errands around town to justify its spot in the garage.

Here's a clip of Walker piping with a Flowmaster 50.

You can run it. Although your vehicle will accelerate 14% slower than it does now. Since you don't have a differential in the front axle, there is no concern regarding mis-matched gear ratios. Lastly, the D44 snout is about 1" longer than the D35 which means you may need to shorten your driveshaft to get it to fit. Alternatively, you could try putting a lift kit on the truck to gain clearance or ordering a custom aftermarket drive shaft.

The x-factor is the value of your own mental and physical energy that you would need to invest to turn a sh*tbox with rotted floors, roached paint and engine trouble into an equivalent truck. Everyone values their time and effort differently. That may be worth 8k + shipping to some guy in the rust belt.

'91 with headrests

Dang... scary stuff. I hope the Docs can provide you with some answers. Not knowing if/when it's going to happen again has got to be rough.

For removal, I used a big drill bit to punch holes through the rubber until the center guts fell out. Then used an air hammer to crumple the sleeve and drive it out.

My gut tells me this is a bad idea, but there's no harm in trying it out if you really want to. You can pretty much guarantee that an OEM supplier like Fox partnered with Jeep to developed a shock tuned specifically for the Gladiator. For context, a Comanche weighs about 3,000lbs. A Gladiator Rubicon tips the scales at over 5,000lbs, with a GVRW over 6,000lbs. So, yes... you will likely find that the Gladiator shocks ride very stiff on a Comanche.

VIN: 1J7FJ26S2NL164624 Vehicle Description: 1992 JEEP COMANCHE STANDARD EQUIPMENT Monotone Paint 75 Amp Alternator Dual 730 Amp Maint Free Batteries Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes Mini Floor Console Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System 230MM Front Axle 3.07 Rear Axle Ratio Tinted Glass Windows Tinted Windshield Glass Front Door Tinted Glass Do Not Use - See HCA 85 MPH Primary Speedometer DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Shift Indicator Warning Lamp Glove Box Lamp Halogen Headlamps Black Front Bumper Black Grille Rear Door Solid Window Insert Belt Moldings EVAP Control System 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank Bright White Clear Coat Standard Duty Shock Absorbers Rear Shock Absorbers Tire Carrier Winch Pickup Box Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications GVW/Payload Rating U.S. Dealer Retail Zone 73-San Francisco OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE Skid Plate Group SE Decor Group Straight Back Bench Seat Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area All Manual Transmissions 5-Speed Manual Transmission Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine Front Left Side Sliding Window Rear Sliding Window Left Remote Mirror Right Remote Control Mirror Manual Remote Mirrors DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers Cigar Lighter STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/DELETE Black Powder Coated Front Bumper Front License Plate Bracket Black Windshield Moldings Lower Grille Surround-Painted Silver California Emissions Bright White Clear Coat All Radio Equipped Vehicles AM/FM Cassette Radio 4 Speakers Power Rack and Pinion Steering Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel Tilt Steering Column Full Size Spare Tire P265/60r18 BSW A/S All Terrain Tires Goodyear Brand Tires 15" Aluminum Wheels All Aluminum Wheels 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Rear Spring Group I Left Front Group XIV Right Front Spring Group XI Customer Preferred Package 2TC Customer Preferred Package 25C Customer Preferred Discount Retail to Bid Diversion Tracking SCA Tissue North America LLC

Here's my favorite meat loaf recipe: 1 ¼ pounds ground beef 1 pound ground Italian sausage meat (pork, no casings) 1 egg, beaten 1 small green bell pepper, chopped 1 onion, chopped ½ cup Malt-o-Meal (or similar dry hot wheat cereal) ½ cup milk 1 dash Worcestershire sauce Salt and Pepper to taste Sweet Baby Rays BBQ Sauce How To: Preheat oven to 400deg. Mix everything together - excluding the BBQ sauce - then pack into a loaf pan. Bake until internal temp reaches 155deg. Remove from oven, drain excess grease from pan, top the loaf with a thin coat of BBQ sauce. Return to oven for 2-5mins under the broiler on HIGH. Just long enough for the sauce to get sizzling and toasty. Remove and let stand 10mins before serving. Watch for internal temp to climb to 160deg min.

Hey, nice truck!

Probably a better question for the Pirate4x4 crowd. Yes, it happens. It is admittedly unlikely to happen under 33's and without a locker and if you never go offroad.

Yes, the green circles show the plug welds. The axle tubes are press fit into the pumpkin, then welded in place through those 6 holes in the pumpkin. There are 6 plug welds on each axle tube. Through corrosion, age or hard use the plug welds can crack at which point your risk of spinning an axle tube increases. Weeping from the plug welds or from the junction where the tube meets the housing can be an early warning sign of a potential problem. When you weld the tubes, you weld the circumference of the tube to the pumpkin. You can also drill out and re-do the plug welds. Welding the axle tubes should be done by a professional because you're dealing with dissimilar metals. The pumpkin needs to be preheated to the right temp for this to be done right. For this reason, you want to do it before you install your seals or e-Locker, or anything sensitive to super high temps.

I wish I had gotten my tubes welded and the plug welds reinforced when I was torn down. Got it all painted, built and installed then discovered it was weeping from the pass side tube. It's cheap insurance for an axle of unknown mileage and work history.

The spring plates are not different. 91+ spring plates are of a single piece design. Older spring plates are a 2-piece design (spring plate and support plate). The difference is not related to D35 vs D44. Either style will physically fit either axle. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that the D44 is designed to accept a larger leaf spring center pin. If you are on stock, non-metric ton leaf springs then you will discover that your centering pin is too small to do its job properly. But, the pins are easily replaced.

Depends on the diff. I was researching the D44 at the time and it was recommended per the Spicer service manual. I will say that my D30 carrier also came out fairly easy without one.

1992 Jeep Comanche Product Preview - (US) (Released 1991)

I like this article from P4x4. The bottom 1/3 of the page goes over reading the contact pattern: https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ When I looked into this job, I remember the cost for all the right tools was significant. Hydraulic press, pinion depth setting tool kit, case spreader, etc... it was hundreds in new tools that I would rarely use. Could be worth it if you already have that stuff laying around, or you if intend to do the job frequently.

I got these from Lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-Nylon-Push-Rivets/3012823