Dzimm

Second printer is up and running! Gotta get caught up on orders and then the new parts can start flowing again!

^^^this is correct and thanks for mentioning because I didn't clarify that well. Sometimes it goes out of parallel once lifted and the shim is used to correct that, if it's still parallel after the lift all is fine without it. I can't remember accepted tolerance on that but it's something like 3* I think? **Worth mentioning that this only applies to the slip yoke style driveshaft in the rear of the truck, if a double carson shaft is used (like the front driveshaft) the axle would need to point at the transfer case rather than be parallel.

A crescent wrench would be the most notable thing in my cab. I've got other tools but I use the crescent wrench the most.

For 31" tires it seems that a 3" lift would be about a perfect balance of usability and looks. 4.5" with 31" tires seems to be a tad too small tire for the lift looks wise IMO but then again that tiny bit extra wheel gap may make the truck look taller, kind of personal preference. You can also consider the metric equivalent of a 32" tire on 4.5" lift! From the advice I got and research the metric tires weigh less and therefore are easier to run on the stock gearing. This however requires you to get 16" wheels because hardly anything is available for the stock 15" anymore but they look great and could solve the problem you are having on tire size. For lifts, I personally run the 4.5" Rusty's kit with full leaf packs. It's one of the more budget lifts but works great for me and came with everything needed. As far as parts at 4.5" at a minimum you will need: FRONT - lift coils - extended sway bar links or drop brackets - adjustable track bar - adjustable or longer lower control arms - extended brake lines or move the bracket lower - shocks REAR - Leaf pack or add a leaf - extended brake line - shocks - new u-bolts - maybe a leaf pad shim to correct angle but not always No need for a drop pitman arm or any adjustments to the slip yoke, the MJ has a longer wheelbase than the Wrangler and XJ so it gets away with more modification to the suspension before needing any help with the driveline. At 4.5" you still don't need to do a t-case drop or a slip yoke eliminator, at most you'll need a shim to go between the leaf spring and axle to adjust it a few degrees. I had to use the shim on my truck, I'd just recommend getting a cheap degree finder and measure it during install to see if your angle is still correct or if you need the shim, just be sure to have it on hand. Also Welcome!

Can't find neutral on the trans/tcase or can't find 2wd on the tcase? You say both neutral and 2wd between your title and post. If you go at a low speed and turn a tight circle you will hear and feel a jerking motion if it's truly in 4wd. Otherwise put it up on jackstands and put in gear, run it through the gears and see what tires spin. Just make sure it's pointed in a safe direction just in case.

Take them all to prison! Honestly if charges are pressed on the aunt, Frankie's conscience may get the better of him and he may turn himself in to keep her out of jail. Also if they do arrest the aunt they may get more information and have more to get Frankie on. She may also spill the beans on him to save herself. Thieves are the worst. It's unfortunate but these days cameras and home security systems are becoming a must. Even in small towns it's becoming an issue. Just hope we don't lose our right to own the tools to protect ourselves with otherwise "Frankie" may go for more than just the welder and heater in the garage...

When I ordered mine through an eBay seller they were in pairs. The verbiage on the Partshubdirect link I posted makes it sound like they are selling them individually. May need to contact them to double check, I've never ordered from them so I have no idea.

They are 3 wire so you'll use all three from the MJ. I just swapped the wires around until it functioned as I wanted with the doors and such. I don't really have any info on the installation of the lights other than this picture of my wiring setup. I can't remember what the MJ wire colors are for the light but I likely tried to match the color of butt connector to the wire so maybe this could be helpful. Just make sure everything works properly before snapping them in place because you have to remove the B-pillar trim to remove these lights since the release tabs are on the back.

At this moment I don't have the capability to print a rubberized material however I am in the process of expanding what I can do and I can easily add this capability to the expansion. It sounds like I have your approval but I have to ask since you were doing this first, would you be ok if were to start making these?

I vaguely remember him addressing that question in one of the videos. I believe he said that the two would be used for specific jobs.

They do look really good. Even with my gray interior they blend nicely. You will have to cut and put butt connectors on. You will also have to file a very little off each end of the slot those go into, they are just a hair too big to fit without filing.

Look for a set of Euramtec 7180 with the 1001-B bezel. They are found for around $20 and look great. I put LEDs in mine and they light the entire cab up, almost too bright. http://www.euramtec.com/parts/c/c01/7180.html# I used to have an ebay link but it's not up there anymore. Here's an alternative place to buy them. http://www.partshubdirect.com/euramtec-1/euramtec-universal-12v-auto-courtesy-flip-interior-light-a-7180

Very good video. All the accurate information in a nice and neat package.

Honestly for an HO I just run through the Renix tips and ignore the ones that don't apply.

That is an OEM step bumper in the picture with a Krusty hitch underneath.

I have had similar experiences with FedEx for as long as I can remember. I've also had Amazon be within a block on that tracking thing and not deliver, they come from almost an hour away and get a block from my house and say screw it I'm done.. The last year or so however FedEx hasn't screwed up any of my shipments and other than one or two negatives with Amazon they are pretty damn good. UPS is my go to for large packages but I hate their price estimate tool. You can have an exact weight and size but the price you get from the estimate tool is not the price in the store. I have yet to have a single accurate quote. For all small packages I go USPS. Quote tool is exactly accurate and they have always gotten packages delivered without any drama. It's also nice to be able to walk up to my local office and have a competent person to talk to if I need anything.

That does sound pretty good. What is the setup on the exhaust?

I'd agree, from left to right in the picture would be load sensing valve, spare tire winch, spare tire winch extension tube, parking brake cable bracket, and vise grips... No support brackets. I could be wrong but I believe there was only a horizontal support across the top of the radiator and the fan shrouds just screwed into that up top and slotted into the rad at the bottom, there wasn't any supports that ran vertically.

Pete hit the nail on the head. Run through the entire truck first. Cruiser's tips are an absolute must! Also you'll want to go through and check/replace fluids, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, check your air filter, pull your tires off and check your brakes to make sure you've got life left on the pads and rotors up front and the shoes and drums in the rear. A big thing is to check for is rust and take care of that asap! Pull up your carpet and see what your floors look like. The sooner you fix that, the less of a headache you'll have later. These trucks turn into swiss cheese quickly and it becomes a royal PIA to fix it later. You'll also want to start making a list of what your truck has such as axles/gear ratio, trans, engine, ect and add it to your signature here so you can always reference it as can the rest of us so we always know what the truck has when we are discussing it. There are instructions for that in the DIY and write-ups section. Also be sure to ask every question you have and can't find an answer for, we are here to help! Welcome to the addition!!

No I actually put new bumpstops in it because mine were trashed and I wanted to ensure I wouldn't be unintentionally draining the oil. Without the bumps you shouldn't bottom out but I believe the oil pan is closer to your steering stabilizer than the bump tube is to the axle so may need to be extra careful. I think if we somehow relocated the steering stabilizer we would have plenty of clearance on the oil pan with these springs that we could run with a much shorter bump stop and completely avoid any issues. It's one thing I haven't worked out yet.

That one definitely is cleaner than the factory one. Here it is for reference, just clips to the metal of the frame. Mines hard to get latched all the way.

That latch definitely isn't the factory one. Hey if it fits and works it's a good score!!

Looking good. Have you noticed any spring wrap with those lowering blocks? Some vehicles have issues some don't, curious if the MJ does or not. How close is your front bump stop to the pad on the axle? Mine got within an inch on the ZJ springs so have to be careful with bumps at speed.

Yeah it's unfortunate. We are getting closer and closer to having to run the god aweful huge wheels with thinwall tires...

Looks like an AC unit thats some kind of add-on for some vehicle. Someone retrofitted into an XJ for some reason.