Dzimm

That was my next question, I've had many aftermarket ones just not work for me and have heard similar from others. I ended up cleaning up a used Mopar one and it's still working fine today. Most everything I'd recommend the cheapo aftermarket ones but any sensors that measure for the main functions of the drivetrain (NSS, CPS, Cam sensor, ect.) I have had bad luck with aftermarket and would only use a proper Mopar unit. Some people will tell you to use Mopar for all sensors.

Yup fix it! Insurance may call it totaled but thats no where close to totaled. As stated pull the header, fender, and bumper off and inspect. Don't be afraid of using a hammer and get the inner pieces straightened back out. A strap and a tree can also be useful to pull sheet metal back out, just be gentle doing that. Couple hundred dollars for new/used parts and you are good to go. It's much easier to repair than you may think it is now. Whatever you do don't go through insurance because they will call it totaled and then when you fix it, you'll have to buy it back from insurance then go through state inspection and pay all kinds of fees and stuff to get it titled so you can register and drive it again. It would also no longer have a clean title. Insurance is just not worth the headache for something like this. Also if you do decide you can't or don't want to repair it, don't take it to a junkyard. Someone will happily buy that off of you and fix it.

So your problem was solved by reseating the plug for the TCU even though you had already reseated it? That's very strange, I've never heard of multiple plug reseats fixing an issue. I wouldn't do anything about it now if everything is working but if you do have issues again check your NSS adjustment. Those NSS are SUPER finiky and are extremely easy to get adjusted just to the edge of where it works but a bump can cause you problems. They also have to be tightened correctly or they will move around when you move the gear selector. Usually it's just the reverse lights working intermittently but I've experienced trans slipping in and out of gear and not shifting because of it being out of adjustment. The NSS tells the TCU what gear it's in as well so if it wasn't on a trace or was getting a signal on two traces it could have caused your REM to display ???

None exist of the frame, at least publicly available. There is a place that has a model of the truck as a whole (no individual parts or detail) but you have to pay and only get personal use rights. It's pretty expensive too. I have been trying to 3D scan large portions of the MJ for quite some time without much luck. I've had better luck just modeling the parts I want to reproduce from scratch. Over time I hope to have the majority of the truck modeled and parts available to purchase so some of the NLA parts can be available again.

We found a new spot to jump the Suzuki and the landing is so much softer with it being slightly uphill and a little offcamber. We need to cleanup the approach some to hit it more square and carry more speed. I'd like to be able to land flat so there isn't so much pressure coming down on one side. https://youtu.be/pKUhi3SWpq8 Also snagged some pictures of the new battery hold down and the rear without a bumper, truck mudflaps are coming soon for the rear. We also hauled a couch to the burn pile. Just wedged it in and went for it, suprisingly didn't fall out.

Yes the front dist block has different fittings otherwise it's the same throughout. Make sure to use copper/nickel lines so they never rust again, plus it's much easier to work with than steel lines. Also be sure to use your old lines as templates for bending your new ones and leave yourself just a little extra length in case you need to reach just a bit farther. Any excess can be taken care of with a slight bend but a line that's too short is a complete waste. Start with your long runs first!

It really depends on what the final price is. I need an 86-93 one though. I am sure you'd be able to offload any extra you couldn't sell here on eBay assuming the price is good.

Yup as stated it's the breather hose for the front diff. Make sure it has the cap on the end of the hose still, if it doesn't just get a tiny air filter to go on it so air can circulate and crap can't get in. Tie it up as high as it will go. I'd also recommend taking the hose off completely and running some compressed air through it to get anything out that may be in it since I'm guessing it was dragging along the trails.

My ZJ prop valve without the load sensing valve works perfectly in the 92. Fronts lock and the rears lock shortly after when unloaded. This truck will never see a loaded bed but regardless without a rear prop valve it will still behave the same. An adjustable valve like the Wilwood has been done many times and is proven to work. It requires manual adjustment though so be careful you get it setup correctly. Do as much research as possible and you'll have to do testing in all scenarios with the truck loaded and unloaded to get the proper adjustment especially if you retain the rear prop valve. You may even need to adjust the valve based on your trucks load when you load it, you may not be able to set and forget.

Easiest fix is to find yourself a disc brake ZJ prop valve and swap it in place of the original. These are factory tuned for disks all around and are an identical setup to what the MJ has when you swap rear disks in so it works as intended. Go out and get up to about 25mph and stop on the brakes, if your fronts lock up first you're good to go. I would recommend you upgrade to the dual diagram booster and master from a later XJ as well since you'll have it apart. I would also say to remove the rear prop valve but you can retain it if you'd like to, may require some fine tuning though.

That your bid Pete? Lol

I'd recommend upgrading it to the later dual diagram booster and master to get better braking and no it won't hurt the value. Could actually make it a better value to someone else if you go to sell. At 170k there is no need to do anything on the engine if it's not having any issues. If it's running good now it's got a long way to go before it needs major work. You could go around and check hoses, the vacuum lines and such just to catch anything before it becomes a problem. Tune-up and fluid changes would be highly recommended to do since it's new to you, you don't know the last time it was done. This includes axles, transmission, transfer case, ect. You could also do the valve cover gasket and oil filter adapter gasket if you wanted and just do a good once over on everything to see if you notice anything wrong. I'd recommend doing all of Cruiser's tips as well to prevent and fix issues you may not know exist. You won't hurt anything value wise for fixing and replacing worn out parts. When you start making drastic changes or cutting up sheet metal is when you will take a hit to it's value.

I had noticed some are quote young as well. Some I didn't realize were as young as they are. Also thanks for the reminder I graduated to the third bracket this year turning 26. This is the second time I've had to answer an age range question in the 26+ age bracket. Kinda strange getting older because mentally you don't feel it but man physically you do.

Personally I'd go: - Kaiser M715 - XJ - flatfender, prefer MB but any would do - Wagoneer - at least one of any specialty such as a dispatcher, fleetvan, forward control, ect. - cheating but 6th would be a modern Wrangler.

That's definitely a D44 but is not metric ton, the metric ton had an extra overload leaf. I would say to go full leaf pack if you don't mind spending the extra money and want to save some time on the install. If your springs are in really good shape and you want to save money the aal definitely works but takes longer to install.

I actually recommended to Coyote to post this question for help. I don't have a Renix Jeep and have never worked on one. I'm hoping the members that have installed the REM will chime in and explain how they ran the cord. @JMO413 can you help out at all?

That is rotten through so as Pete said it will be much worse on the other side, regardless of which side it started on. Once it rusts through, the backside isn't protected as well so it always spreads faster on the back. I'd bet 3"-5" around that hole on the backside will be rusted and each flare mounting hole will have at least a little surface rust on the backside. Still though this is a very usable and easily repaired bedside, especially since it can be patched and properly painted before being put on the truck.

Thats not a bad deal at all assuming the tailgates are halfway decent.

Go get it! Definitely a great vehicle to learn on. As mentioned above these were designed to be serviced so everything is pretty easy to get to. I personally learned how to work on vehicles with the XJ/MJ platform and wouldn't trade it for anything. The best part is that these vehicles are super reliable overall and you can do almost everything with a simple socket set. It's good the rust is minimal, be sure to pull your carpet out sooner than later to inspect the floor pans, they will be rusty even if you can't see it from underneath. You'll want to get them cleaned up and get the rust there stopped before it eats the pans away entirely. Rust there moves real quick. Also know that you have a wealth of knowledge available to you here on the club. If it's not already in a post somewhere, post up and youll get the answer you are looking for. Be sure to start yourself a build thread as well so we can see your build as it progresses. And most of all welcome to the club!

This is very true and kind of nice as an option. I built a photo editing rig for a friend a few years ago and it's still running an unactivated Windows 10. For me there are some features I needed and honestly the point of them bastards trying to tell me I had to pay $350 for a new license. Freakin dumb.

Regardless of the quality of the truck pre or post modifications, I have a problem when they ask $15k for a vehicle that "Only needs a few brake lines and some seat bracket work" Like why the hell not just finish the job that has an afternoon worth of labor and $100 in parts maybe. Just lazy.

I am young enough that I just missed DOS in school. Would have been nice to learn it back then, would have been good knowledge to have over the years. Windows has always been a resource hog of sorts. Windows 10 was supposed to be a lightweight OS but that obviously changed over the last few years. It's a good thing these days CPUs and RAM can be had with enough power to not matter as much as it used to. I'm honestly surprised that some Windows 7 and 8 machines are still able to run Windows 10 with all the crap it's got now.

Yeah I was reading into it as well and it seemed that motherboard or CPU can outright throw the issue by itself sometimes. Apparently Microsoft has never officially said what constitutes a "hardware change" so it's pretty much up in the air. Problem is if you need to change architecture like I did it's a minimum of CPU/mobo and I had to go RAM as well since the previous architecture was so old. Either way I am back up and running with most everything reinstalled on a fresh Windows install. Best thing I ever did was use an SSD for Windows and put all my programs and files on a separate HDD so in the event of Windows inevitable suicide I only have a few programs that need reinstalled or .dll added as opposed to full reinstall of everything.

Yeah I personally won't by choice use any of Apple's OSs. It definitely has it's place but it's not for me since I like to actually use MY computer. I like Linux but it's lack of compatability for some programs makes it kind of annoying. Windows unfortunately is the only good all around option.

either burnt to hell or still soft huh?