Dzimm

No other vehicle lights will fit without modification. These are specific to the Comanche. Your best bet is to look at ebay or once you have 10 posts you can post in the classifieds here for a set. There are sets popping up all the time.

Honestly I'd see how fixable it is first. It doesn't look too bad really. I see frame damage is mentioned in the KSL post, see what a frame shop would charge to straighten it. There is also always the chain and a tree method since it still runs! If it ends up getting parted out, as mentioned just post it up on craigslist or Facebook for parts. Whatever is valuable or can be easily removed and shipped you can list on eBay as individual parts. Something like this shouldn't be too hard to part out if the parts are priced decently. Once done, call around to junkyards as some will pay you and come to take the vehicle. A yard local to me will pay based on the weight if the vehicle on the title, doesn't matter if it's completely stripped or not and will come get it. You just have to have the title in hand or no junkyard can take the carcass. I've always loved these old square bodies and wouldn't mind buying this one to work on but you are just too far away.

Thank you for the update! Think of Don everytime I click the website home button. Miss having him around but good to hear his family are well.

Unfortunately it doesn't appear anyone makes this size anymore.

Yeah the clutch and throw out bearing are suspect, may even be a flywheel bolt come loose or something. I'd go ahead and pull the trans and see what you find with the clutch. If you heard pieces flying around you'll probably find them in the bell housing.

I had this happen on my 95 once. I ended up pulling the battery cable to get it shut off. I cleaned up the battery terminals and hooked it back up and it hasn't done it since. No idea if the battery cables were the issue or not but worth a shot I suppose.

If it slipped at all with the TCU unplugged you can now focus entirely on mechanical things.

Welp scratch that idea. With a 15" rim the 265/75 actually measure out to 30.6". Doesn't look like anyone makes a metric 32" tire for 15" rim anymore. Stupid large rims.

Thanks for the input everyone. I should have mentioned before that I have pretty well decided to go with BFG KO2 ATs. I like the idea of running metric with the slightly narrower tire but the BFGs don't come in 32x10.5 unfortunately. As far as wheels go, I have a set of 5 Eliminator specific 10 holes that I want to keep with the truck so that limits me to r15. I will take a look at what's available in 265/75r15 and maybe can find something to sway me from the BFGs. The narrower tire would help with rotating mass and won't hurt power and mpg quite as bad I suppose.

What do the rockers and cab corners look like? I'm curious if everything was rusty hence all the new body panels.

I would like input from the guys running or have run 32x11.5" tires with 4.5" lift, stock wheels, and stock (3.55) gears and no fender trim. - How does it run on the highway? Still hold speed okay? - Do they rub anywhere? I assume it will on the control arms but what about while flexing? I finally need to get new tires, the ones that came with my wheels are pretty worn out. I know 31s will fit fine but they look too small on this lift, 33s are just too big for what I want. 32s seem like the sweet spot of looks and hopefully performance with the setup mentioned above. My truck is mostly used for truck things and only sees off-road a few times a year, but when I do go off-road it gets fully flexed out so I need to be careful how I set this up. It's not a mall crawler and it's not a crazy off-road rig, I'm shooting for the middle here.

If you bought a CPS from the parts store, return it and buy a Mopar one. The parts store ones are absolute junk and I personally have run into a multitude of stupid problems because of them. Including the starting and dying one you are describing.

Have you unplugged the TCU and tried to drive it yet? Much cheaper than throwing fluid at it and will actually tell you something. Troubleshooting is free, the parts cannon gets very expensive and time consuming.

Looks halfway decent. What you are seeing for rust on the underside of the floors will be 100 times worse on the inside. Be sure one of the first things you do is pull the carpet and clean that rust up, replace metal where you have to, and seal it up real good. Easy to fix just takes some time.

Very nice!! Looking forward to seeing it all installed.

This is the same message I get and I do have have an account. It must be group related.

Yeah definitely take a down payment. I'd say get an idea for a route and see if anyone along the way wants one and then adjust from there. If you happen to have a tailgate to sell and are planning on coming through Iowa again I may be interested. I'm looking to get a gate to make a patio bench so cheap and beat up is fine with me.

So I was in a conversation with a guy about 2dr seat tilt levers. Basically he has only seen the levers with a plastic lever such as this I have only seen them with a little metal tab like this but only the very end of it is outside the seat fabric. My question is what years had what tilt levers? I have only seen 97+ 2drs and they had the little metal tab, I've never seen the plastic lever before. Or is it just a plastic cover thats supposed to be on that little metal tab?

Looks to be NLA.

"rear quarters were trimmed for a better departure angle" They then proceeded to put a giant rear bumper on it to completely negate the gains from cutting the quarters...

Yeah $300 is way high. Are they professionally refurbished or just pulled and thrown online? 88mjsally has a dang good offer there. Mine sold for $100 and that is around the highest I've actually seen them sell for but I haven't looked at prices in a couple years so not positive on the going rate today. Really the biggest thing is finding one that doesn't have the slop in it or at least be prepared to fix it if it does.

The easiest swap would be parts from an XJ/MJ of the same year as your truck but pretty much any year XJ 4x4 equipment can be swapped in to make the best swap, you just have to make some changes but these things are like Lego and you can mix and match pretty much everything. Really the best setup is just avoiding the disconnect and low pinion D30, everything else is pretty much the same other than maybe swapping your rear axle assuming it's a D35. You could also use a 242 transfer case if you want full time 4x4 but that's more of a preference thing. This is your opportunity to change gear ratios if you'd like to run bigger tires. Your front and rear ratios need to match so be sure that you swap the front and rear axles together or find a front axle with the same ratio as the rear that's in your truck. There were a few different gear ratios found in the XJ/MJs so find one with a lower gear ratio if you can and want the bigger tires. Personally I'd grab a 97+ XJ for the swap because it has the really good C8.25 rear axle, the high pinion D30 front axle without any disconnect crap, the front driveshaft, and the transfer case and it's linkage will swap over. Swap your sensors over and all you'll have to buy otherwise is a rear driveshaft because the XJs is too short.

I shipped one a while back and left the stalks installed and made a small frame of plywood around them for safety and because I didn't want to tear the column apart. The box weighed 25lbs and was a similar shape to a guitar box when it was done. It was $30 to ship with USPS to the next state over.

Yeah but RARE tho! In all seriousness it's a nice looking truck from the pictures and I'd love to have it but not for anywhere close to that ask.