Dzimm

Are you talking about those popup things you stick in the windshield when it's hot? I think you can get those in a two piece design and overlap them in the middle.

The 97+ visors had a safety label, never seen one on a 96- though.

I think you'll be opening it back up unfortunately.

Since you are using it as a basic off-road capable rig and are wanting to cut the fenders fit the 35s I'd recommend keeping it simple with a 4.5" kit from Rusty's or similar that comes complete with everything. That way you get a pallet of parts and can just start bolting them on. Since you are replacing the axle it's not really anymore work on the axle for spring over since you have to weld on new spring pads to match the MJ regardless if you go SOA or SUA. With SOA you would reuse your leaf springs but need the lift parts for the front to match. Usually this route is a bit of mixing and matching parts to get everything setup correctly but usually works out just fine at the end. I have heard that some people have had a little bit of axle wrap introduced with SOA but I'd imagine that's under pretty heavy acceleration.

These are finally available and can be found at the link below.

Definitely something big. Looks like the Kind visor may be salvageable as well.

I will definitely be selling them. Keep an eye on the Vendors section this weekend, you should see the thread pop up. I delayed posting the thread a few days because I've been extremely busy this week.

You weren't kidding that bumper is destroyed. It's not a factory one though, not sure if that was custom built or where it came from. You might get a Cherokee one to work but it's a completely different mounting setup so you'd have to fabricate mounts for it. There is an aftermarket step bumper made by FEY that has Comanche specific mounting brackets. Not sure if it would be available at any retailers there but can be bought many places online. The FEY bumper part numbers are 63000 for black bumper, 73000 for chrome bumper, and 97900 for the Comanche mounting brackets. You may want to try some kind of paint stripper or paint thinner before replacing that window gasket. If the paint that is on it isn't of good quality it should come off pretty easily.

Yeah they fit the hole just fine. You have to use the latch from a 97+ on the b-pillar. Many different ways people have done it such as elongate the hole so it lines up or cutting that area out and welding it in. Lots of trial and error adjusting it to get it to latch properly but not a hard job. Everything else about the door is entirely different though so don't expect to swap door panels and such. Someone took the guts from a 97+ door and put it into a 96- door so it could use the large window. Looked like a lot of work but was doable.

In that case I'd recommend just a basic kit, nothing too fancy. Looks like the Rough Country one you posted is just springs and shocks, the Rusty's comes with springs as well as the u-bolts and rear brake line relocation bracket which is nice. You'll want to make sure your brake lines are lone enough by either relocation brackets or longer hoses. At 3" up front you can move the brake fitting mount lower on the frame to extend them. Your sway bar links will be too short so you'll want either longer links or drop brackets. The stock lower control arms are also on the edge of acceptable at 3", some will change them out with the angled grand Cherokee lowers for a little bit more length. These are things you can get away without doing on a street truck but you'll want to address them before going off-road as flexing the suspension could cause you issues. I'd also recommend replacing the steering stabilizer while you are at it as I bet yours is shot if it's original. As far as doing things twice, it's a Jeep and once you start its hard to stop. You'll probably want more height/ability some day. I don't know of any 3" kits that have full packs. 4.5" kits are the shortest I've seen with full packs. The 4.5" kits tend to have the best bang for buck as far as parts included for the price, the Rusty's one for instance has everything in it you need to lift the truck which is hard to find, most kits are missing something.

A lot of people are going to tell you to avoid Rusty's and Rough Country, I've run both and they are just fine. It depends on what you want to do with your truck, if you will be offroading a lot and always want the best and most comfortable ride possible then you may want to find a better kit that's going to be more expensive. If you just want it lifted and are fine with riding like a 30 year old truck then any kit will do. The biggest thing to look for in the kits are that it comes with all the parts you need and want. 3" kits usually don't have the option for a full leaf pack so you'll likely end up with an AAL for your rear springs so make sure to look over your springs good and be sure they aren't so rusted and no leaves are cracked before you commit to AAL over a new pack.

These will be in PETG. The materials that make up PETG are UV resistant so it doesn't get brittle due to exposure to sunlight like ABS does and should keep it's color for quite a long time.

My 95 is a sport and doesn't have the breakaways, I suppose it's always possible they were replaced at one point but I have no way to know for sure. But if we can confirm those were still there in 96 that's good enough for me thanks!

Does anyone know what year the side mirrors got updated to no longer have the plastic retainer piece that is always broken? I know it was still around in 92 and gone by 95 but not sure what year exactly. I made replacements so we can repair these mirrors and want to be sure I get the years correct in the sale post.

In central IA it's around $2.89 for 87. Everything else is between that and $3. In the cities is about $0.10 higher.

I know the newer ones require it to be fully removed to open it up. I'm sure the old one will be the same way unfortunately. It sits somewhat recessed into the firewall so it would be impossible to get to any screws that may be on the backside of the box. When I flushed my clogged core I had to shove my garden hose into a rubber hose and duct tape the seam up so no water could leak, then cranked the hose wide open. Required the full force of the hose before the clog came out. Make sure to flush it backwards first then forwards. May need to give that a try before tearing into it, worst case it blows a hole in the heater core so you'd be replacing anyway.

Don't take the spring pack thickness into the equation as it isn't changing location. Your lift amount will be the axle tube and pad height. This of course assumes you are using all the same parts so it may vary a bit using new springs and new pads but will get you a pretty close estimate. As far as shock mounts, best solution would probably be to weld new mounts to the axle in roughly the same location the spring plates originally were, I have seen people use the shock mounts on the spring plate that gets flipped upside down and put on top of the axle but I'm not sure how that affects geometry and forces on the shocks.

It's exactly what I anticipated it would be. Modern Jeep styling in a Suburban package. I would love to see a faithful remake of the originals but it just won't happen these days. I don't have a need for an SUV that large, personally needing that much space and seating, a van makes more sense. If I had the money and the need I'd drive one, I kind of like the woodgrain interior option which is weird because I typically thing wood grain is ugly in cars.

One other thing to consider I forgot to mention is the depth of the dash. Just going from the 96- to 97+ dash eats up a ton of leg room and pushes the steering wheel closer to the driver a tiny bit. I have absolutely no idea what the WJ dash would do so be sure to test you'd actually have room to safely sit in the cab before committing to it.

I'm sure it's possible to do but it would likely require a ton of fab work. The reason 97+ swaps are common is because the firewall and a-pillars are identical between the XJ and MJ. A WJ or any other dash is unlikely to fit very well but really there is only one way to find out for sure.

There won't be rust on the lift gate struts, they are protected inside the gate. They usually look brand new even though they are old.

Just go to the junkyard and get a lift gate strut off an XJ, go to the auto parts store and get a ball stud, bolt it in. It's about the cheapest route you can go. Could also do two struts which would make you less likely to bend the hood when closing it.

Update May 2021.

This is more than likely a large portion of what they want. As you mentioned grassroots motorsports would be basically killed or severely crippled along with some larger organizations such as the NHRA. I don't see how this would be enforced beyond making it illegal to sell parts to modify a car and showing up at racing events to check the cars but if people are caught I'm sure the fines would be rediculous. Nothing would change for the average guy cutting off his exhaust in the driveway. The big picture item though is that if this goes through, it not only kills the majority of motorsports but it opens the door for more changes that further restrict vehicle modification and usage.

They are back at it. https://www.sema.org/news-media/enews/2021/09/sema-challenges-epas-motorsports-regulations-court SEMA has the auto populated support form on their website if you want to back the RPM act and stop the EPA from making it illegal to build a racecar. https://www.votervoice.net/mobile/SEMA/campaigns/45394/respond