Dzimm

Turns out I had the dimensions already just buried deep in messages thanks to scguy. Design will begin and should have something out soon!

I know it was brought up before as it's been on my list to make. It was a CC member who mentioned it before so definitely could have been you, I can't remember for sure. It's closer to the top of my list so I'm trying to get all the info I can on it so I can start modeling it. I'd like to get it turned around pretty quick.

For sure, I will shoot him a message if no one has one or can help out. I was hoping if someone had one and was interested in a mount, they could do a test fit for me and keep the mount for helping out. I don't want to eat up Nick's time if I don't have to. Worst case I can always buy one, I just have no use for it.

Just wondering if anyone has a trinity fan controller V2 from Nick? I've been asked again to make a mount available for it and just need the outer dimensions of the TFC box and port location. If you have one and can take some measurements with calipers preferably and can do a test fit for me please let me know. This has been done. Development in progress Thanks!

Wow, I knew this idea had been kicked around but it's actually looking like it will happen. This is awesome! I'm really curious about the 3D printed aspect of this, it would take a massive machine to print these parts. I'm guessing some kind of custom machine.. price seems pretty fair for something of this scale. Definitely will need to be prepared for plenty of finish work on a raw printed kit so it's good he has it noted a professional is recommended. Will be interested in an airdam myself since I let #7's airdam go with #96 I am now without any kit parts on the street truck.

Thanks for posting the link Pete. Here is the direct link to the tail light housings thread. Send me a direct message here on CC for a set! https://comancheclub.com/topic/69219-86-92-jeep-mj-reproduction-tail-light-housings/

I think the biggest problem would be the head gasket. There really isn't much if any room for any additional head bolts anywhere although it wouldn't be too complicated to come up with some sort of external clamping mechanism to add additional clamping force if it were necessary. The question I have is, would a 4.0 even be able to create the pressures required to ignite the diesel? Doesn't a diesel engine have a really small gap between piston at TDC and the head? It may require grinding the head flat around the valves and longer rods but then you'd be pushing the piston rings past the head gasket to get the piston closer to the head. It may be possible to get it running but not sure how it would do revved up. I think a custom head would solve most of the problems you'd run into. It's definitely an interesting concept, I'd be interested to hear from someone who knows a lot about both the 4.0 and diesel engines.

I hadn't used ammoseek before, that's pretty slick! One place came up with them, Southern Munitions. I've never heard of them before but they look legit, and triple the regular price plus shipping but what's new these days... I'll keep that bookmarked for now as it's the only stock I've seen online that's not on an obvious scam site. I definitely prefer to buy this stuff local but just can't find it. I live close to Des Moines and gone to every place that sells this stuff I can think of and it's the same story, "when we do get some in, they are gone within an hour". I'm hoping demand for shotshell primers come down after the seasons close and it's not on people's minds as much.

Anyone happen to know where I could get some Winchester 209 primers? Late muzzleloader season is right around the corner and after 2 years of not being able to find them anywhere I am getting a little desperate. Unfortunately I didn't have a great supply of them going into this mess and now I am down to 28 primers left. That's plenty to get me through several deer seasons but I actually quite enjoy target shooting black powder as well so it's a bit of a problem. I do have a percussion cap breech plug for one of my inline rifles as well as an old cap rifle and cap revolver so I have stuff I can shoot although I can't find no11 caps right now either. Just hoping someone knows of a shop that has inventory or maybe a schedule for a big box of when they are showing up on the shelves.

All the fenders, doors, headers are from the same dies no matter if it's XJ or MJ 84-96 so it wouldn't matter what they came off of. New aftermarket stuff, now that could be hit or miss on fitment. Older vehicles typically have pretty large gaps, way larger than any modern vehicle and the XJ/MJ are no exception. If the gap is tight it's usually an indicator something is bent or out of place. The doors and hood have shims to adjust the fitment like any other vehicle but the fenders you more or less have to loosen all the bolts and get it where you want and tighten it back up. Maybe bend a fender mount a bit to get it where you want. The header panel location is dependent on the fender location so if it all needs pushed back you'll have to push the fenders back as far as you can. I'd be amazed if all the gaps ever lined up perfectly and stayed that way. Don't think I've ever seen a Jeep with consistent body gaps unless it was fresh out of a professional body shop. If you do manage to get them all right, first time you flex it out off-road something will move. It's one of those things that if you are building a show truck that will be an on pavement grocery getter it would be worth getting it perfect. If you want to drive it and use it as a truck and just want it to look good, get it close enough that you are happy with it and run with it. Ahh fresh paint always looks so good!

Magnet is definitely the way to go. If you have a scanner you can scan it and print copies on sticker paper to make as many as you want!

Each state has their own process so it varies but ill give my insight. I went through the process here in Iowa last year to title street MJ #96. There's a form to fill out and turn into the DOT that includes as much proof as you can provide that you own the truck and pictures of the door jamb sticker and VIN number. You pay a small fee to submit this form. Then wait for an eternity while they do checks to make sure it's not stolen, attempt to contact the last titled owner, and then value the vehicle. If it's approved to move forward they will send you a form stating the assessed value of the vehicle and you are required to buy a bond for 1.5 times the assessed value. You only pay the bond fee which in my case I believe I paid $100 to the bond company. The bond company then gives you a form to send to the DOT. Once the DOT gets the form and assuming it's filled out correctly and satisfies the DOT, you will then be issued a bonded title. With a bonded title the vehicle can be registered, driven, sold, ECT just like any other vehicle. Really it's like a regular title at this point but notes that it is under bond at the top. The bond is timed and I think mine lasts 2 years. After it expires the owner can go in and get a regular title printed and is the true rightful owner of the truck no matter what at that point. The bond also does not transfer to a new buyer, so in the case of #96 I sold the truck however the bond is still over my head, the new owner is in the clear. The bond basically means if the last titled owner comes forward with a title for it in their name, they can claim it as theirs and you either have to give up the vehicle or the bond company will pay out for the value of it then you pay back the bond company. Getting a bonded title is a risky thing especially on a higher value vehicle. It should really only be done if you are the rightful owner and lost the title, it's being passed down from a deceased family member who can't sign it over or you know and understand that you are responsible and will lose money if the old owner comes back after it. In the case of #96 I was confident the previous titled owner was deceased and it's value was low enough I was willing to risk losing that money to save the truck. Overall the process cost me iirc $200-$300 just in the bond and DOT fees and took 8-10 months. It's a lot of work and takes a lot of time but can be done.

I left everything as it was in the main harness, depending on the options you plan to use you will end up needing pretty much all of it anyway. Any extra wires left in gives you options to add stuff later as well. The block of plugs from near the rear gate fits behind the carpet panel on the back wall of the MJ but does bulge it out slightly. Otherwise everything fits just like it's supposed to. Obviously you can ditch the third brake light and rear wiper motor harness unless you plan to mount a third brake light. Just leave the plugs unpopulated in the main harness.

Since it's a bench seat I'd guess the springs run the full width of the seat. The foam should be thick enough though you could cut holes out and at least partially recess cupholders into the foam. At that point though would it make more sense to fab mounts for bucket seats and just build a console to go between them?

This is actually one of the reasons I kept the 2-piece design like the forward facing version. Simply lift the cupholder piece out, the mount is short enough that it is out of the way of the seat folding down so that can stay mounted.

When I get a chance I'll pull my XJ market lights apart and see if they are the same thickness or not, either way the overall size looks the same so worst case I get some thinner material to cut from. For the rollbar gaskets as long as I get good traces it will be good enough, gaskets like this have a lot more tolerance available than hard parts do. I like to get the exact thickness or as close as possible though, that's best measured with calipers or micrometer but in this instance thickness isn't critical so measuring it with a tape measure you should be able to guesstimate at least down to 1/32". I assume you have a factory bar and not an aftermarket one?

I could absolutely make new rollbar gaskets. Could always just trace it out and mail the paper to me rather than sending the gaskets themselves. Doing that I would just need to know the thickness of the material. I assume it's rubber?

Thanks to Pete for asking and JMO413 for the measurements, yes the rear cupholder will fit in an MJ. It has about 1.5" of clearance from the back carpeted wall.

Got it done and measured, it actually only hangs 5" beyond the console lid so it will fit just fine in the MJ!

Are they the same size as the tail light ones?

I don't have a rear facing one on hand at the moment but will be making one as soon as a printer finishes so I can get a measurement of the cupholder. I believe it is just shy of 6-1/2" but don't know for sure, I should have an answer tomorrow night or Sunday morning.

Absolutely, trying to solve as many of the pitfalls of these old Jeeps as I can!

Are you talking about the rear cupholder? I have been wondering that as well, I believe it would fit but I don't have an MJ with a 96- console in it that I can confirm for sure. Looking at my 97+ truck there is plenty of room but no guarantee the console is sitting in the same spot the older one does. If anyone can measure from the back of the console lid to the back wall of the truck I could answer for sure.

I don't remember if they do or not, I'll have to tear one of the Jeeps apart to see what is there.

Damn pay walls.