Dzimm

Yeah that's what I've always seen before. The problem I'm running into with this new style is the plastic is like 12.5mm while the hole and bolt is 12mm. While the plastic is on the bolt it can't collapse enough to fit through the knuckle, it just peels off the bolt at the split. Really dumb design I think, almost like you have to use an undersized bolt for it to work. I ended up just buying regular grade 10.9 bolts for now. I'll find some of the regular style camber bolts at some point and just toss these crap ones on the shelf.

Generally everything from the A-pillar forward is the same as a similar year XJ. About 50% of everything B-pillar to A-pillar is the same between a similar year XJ. The major XJ changeover years were pre86, 90, and 96/97 so for your MJ you'd want to focus on 86-90 for most things. After 90 the engine management system changed so the electronics will be different, mechanically they are identical throughout 84-96 for the most part.

The plan is to find some steel housings from a Suzuki XL7 or Grand Vitara. I've been having trouble locating those because they got both aluminum and steel housings and the junkyards aren't too helpful at checking the material for me.. I also will be more careful about power application when jumping it because I think I had hit the gas right before the front tires hit which aided in the damage. For now I just need it running again so the aluminum will have to do until I can locate steel.

A bunch of parts have shown up, just waiting on a few. I got the new axle assembly from Ohio and turns out they sent the entire assembly with the main housing, inner axle shaft, and mount bushings, I thought I was only getting the carrier/third member. It's nice to have the spare parts. The new carrier is swapped into the old main housing. I took the new one apart to inspect gears and double check the ratio and figured I'd use the old main housing in case it was weakened but the carrier exploding. That way that will hopefully break first and I've already got a spare on hand. The axle assembly is mounted back in the Suzuki and I started assembling the passenger side but ran into an issue with the camber bolts I ordered. They are some kind of new style with a plastic sleeve instead of the integrated metal cam. They don't fit and am trying to decide on making them fit or buying the standard style cam bolts.

I ordered some camber bolts for the Suzuki from Rock Auto and got these.. There is a plastic sleeve instead of the typical integrated cam on the bolt itself. Has anyone used these before? I can't find much info online but what I could find was all saying the old style is better. I can't get the plastic sleeve to go into the knuckle, just a hair too big to fit with the bolt. I'm not sure if there is a trick to using them or they just suck.

Well I finally got the Suzuki moved into the shop and started working on it. I got the front end tore apart and the diff housing removed. Surprisingly everything came out pretty easy, the lower strut bolts had to be hammered out which destroyed the bolts but it came apart so I'm fine with it. As for the diff, the main housing is actually fine, the carrier housing is absolutely destroyed and it chipped a pinion and a ring gear tooth so that carrier is complete junk. I was able to locate a new carrier with proper gears in Ohio, I just talked to them again today and it is being shipped out today so hopefully should have it by this weekend. The Suzuki XL7 and Grand Vitara had the same housings in steel as well as aluminum. Unfortunately no yard lists the material of the housing and calling around they aren't too keen on checking for me. A couple said they would check and then I don't hear back. When I call back I get told they'll have me an answer by EOD but no response. Really frustrating because I could really use the steel housing. Ive got many parts on order that are starting to trickle in so I should have another update soon. I'm hoping to get some work done on it this weekend but my brother in law will be home for the weekend so we are going to do some trail maintenance at the farm. He's finally back home for good at the end of September and is picking up his brand new SxS around the same time so this fall should be a lot of fun out there.

Sounds good, let me know what you come up with.

If I had one I could certainly take a stab at it. Really any connector should be possible as long as every wall of it is at least 1/2mm wide I could probably get a good print.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated! I am in need of help finding some parts. I'm hoping either someone has these parts or has a yard near them that has them for a decent price. I've been looking everywhere and these parts are either listed for stupid prices online or I just can't find them for sale anywhere. Not sure if I am just not using the correct search terms or just nobody is listing them online. Car-Part has been marginally helpful but nothing showing for the steel parts. Ideally I would like to have: - Steel front axle housing from 01-03 Suzuki XL7 - Steel front third member/diff from a 97-05 (I think) Grand Vitara, ideally with 5.125 gears but not likely to have that ratio in a steel housing. Parts I need regardless: - Front third member from a Chevy Tracker, Sidekick, or Grand Vitara with 5.125/5.13 gears. I'm looking for steel ideally but will reuse my aluminum housing with a new aluminum third member if needed. For the GV and XL7 the steel housings are confirmed in manual trans vehicles but only rarely found in autos. As for the Sidekick/Tracker third member, below is a list of the engine/trans combos with gear ratios for easy checking. These will all be aluminum housings. Here are pictures of the parts I'm looking for for reference.

Mystery solved! It's the foot off a friend's Yeti cooler.

Nope haven't figured out where it came from yet. I checked over all the doors real good and didn't find any holes it could have come from.

I think if you modified it to the point it didn't look like an MJ anymore and you built it more like a standard side by side style you could probably get away with it. If it's an MJ you scratched all the VIN numbers off it may throw up red flags and you'd have to explain yourself. I think with the right person behind the desk you may get away with it but any DOT person who actually cares would probably reject it.

I could easily make something but I don't know what longevity would be like. I could certainly make some from TPU and some from PETG and see how they work but I wouldn't make any guarantees on how long they'd last. There are engineering plastics That are much better suited for this application such as PVX or Delrin but they are extremely expensive and would need to be milled out. A good solution for now is the heat shrink tube as mentioned above or coating with lithium grease but that could be messy.

- Gone in 60 seconds is a really good one (I've only seen the Nick Cage remake so can't comment on the original) - Dukes of Hazzard (this is somewhat cheating as the TV series is where it's really good, there were a few movies made and they were okay) - The Fast And The Furious (the 2001 original ONLY and maybe Tokyo drift but this is only if you like imports and street racing of the late 90s/early 00s. Don't even bother with the later ones) - The Italian Job (again only seen the remake) - Cars (yes the Disney movie) - Baby Driver is decent as well

We have a 2018 Dodge Caravan and my wife found this rubber plug in the rear seat area under some stuff from her recent trip. The rear seats are always folded down in the van and haven't been lifted up for many months so I don't believe it to be from the seats or cargo area in the floor. I have also ruled out it being from anything that was loaded into the van and believe it to be a part of the van. It's soft rubber and fairly clean, the two holes into the studs have some gravel dust in them. It appears to be some kind of body plug and it seems to be the same soft rubber as other body plugs on the van but I can't figure out where it may go and Google hasn't been too helpful. I'm hoping someone may have seen this part before and can help locate where it goes.

Where are you located in Illinois? I'm in central Iowa but get out to the quad city area often enough. I've got a set of 4 with center caps in pretty decent shape I'd sell.

Yes I'm am close to the end of development on the switch face as well as the small bezel piece around the switch itself. Hopefully should have them available soon.

Correct

Fpr? Fuel pressure regulator? That is built in. It's the same setup as the 97+ XJ fuel pump just taller for the Dakota tank and has a different power plug on it.

They did it again https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motor1.com/news/515925/jeep-wrangler-tweet-teaser-number/amp/

Yes you can use the Dakota pump. Just have to adapt the wiring but everything works. Below are the pinouts you'll need. When I did mine I bought a replacement pigtail for the body side of the Dakota and cut the pigtail off of an old XJ pump to make an adapter. That way everything was plug and play and I could run either an XJ or Dakota pump without modifying wires. The 20gal Dakota tank fits in both the lwb and Swb MJ just requires some heating and pushing the plastic a bit in one spot to clear a frame brace.

What could it mean?

For copper nickel just bend it by hand. start at one end of the bend and do a small bend, move your fingers down a smidge and bend again. Repeat until you have a 90* bend. You should only be kinking it if the bend radius you are trying to make is too small.

Maybe @NickInTimeFilms would have some input on this? He's probably done more research on the Renix system than anyone else.

The simplest thing to check is jack up the front and grab the tire and try to push the top and bottom in and out as well as try to turn the tire by hand. If anything is wrong with the ball joints or anything on the axle it should be obvious, the wheels shouldn't move by hand. Beyond that you definitely should check for damage around the steering box.