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Everything posted by Dzimm
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AW4 Transmission Leaking
Dzimm replied to BizarroStormy's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Just need to remove the driveshaft and drop the transfer case. No need to rebuild the trans if all is working. At most drain and refill with new fluid. -
Aw4 shifting/slipping problems
Dzimm replied to Joshua_A's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Renix is freakin weird. -
Aw4 shifting/slipping problems
Dzimm replied to Joshua_A's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The ECM is located under the hood next to the airbox. -
Aw4 shifting/slipping problems
Dzimm replied to Joshua_A's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Hmm now I'm confused, I could have swore my 90 had the bracket for it by the gas pedal. Maybe I installed the bracket when I did the 97+ swap, I can't remember anymore lol. -
Aw4 shifting/slipping problems
Dzimm replied to Joshua_A's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Could be there pre-HO. I haven't gone that far back. -
Aw4 shifting/slipping problems
Dzimm replied to Joshua_A's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Don't tear anything apart yet. First and foremost, unplug the transmission computer (TCM) and go for a drive. look up and right from your gas pedal and you will see a box labeled Aisin, this is the TCM. You will have to shift it manually but it will drive just fine otherwise. This won't hurt anything. This will tell you if it's a mechanical issue or if it's an electrical issue. If it still slips with the computer unplugged, this rules out all electrical and sensors. Find out what it does here and go from there. Post up your results from this test. -
There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. It's in good shape. I don't have the money anyway.
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I know of one like that. I've never seen it move however it looks to be in good shape and well maintained. I know it gets driven because in the fall it'll have a bed full of sticks or leaves and then it'll be empty the next time I go by. I've known about this one for quite a few years but haven't talked to the guy.
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You could try posting a wanted ad on the Arlington area Craigslist or maybe there's a local facebook swap group for that area. You may get a lead from someone there.
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Thanks to eaglescout526 finding this truck was originally sold from BRIGGS JEEP MANHATTEN, KS. There is still a dealer with this name however it doesn't appear to be a Jeep dealer anymore as of 2021.
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Thanks to eaglescout526 finding this truck was originally sold from UFTRING JEEP EAST PEORIA, IL. This dealer is still around as of 2021.
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Thats pretty cool! Thanks for offering to do this.
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Removing axle/rear brake lines
Dzimm replied to rylee144's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I would say to just get new ones so you never have to worry about it. If your 8.8 has disk brakes, you'll need new parking brake cables anyway. I'm also not sure if the axle end of the softline is the same for an 8.8. Get yourself some copper/nickel brake line and put it on the axle before installing, then you just have to attach the top end of the softline when you put the axle in. It's much easier to run the new brake lines with the axle out of the truck. -
How to use the search function would be a good one.
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These dang hosting sites. I noticed some of my older pictures hosted on Tapatalk have started to disappear. I have the originals but have no idea what the pictures were that are gone.
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It's been over a year since I've updated this thread, dang time flies.. It just came to mind after 89MJ posted videos of jumping his soon to be parts truck. Figured I'd update on it since there has been some work done and as I get projects knocked out, it's getting closer to the top of my priority list so it'll be coming up again soon. Since the last update the brakes have been fixed, turned out to be a rusted brake line along the frame near the rear. I had redone the lines on the rear axle for my buddy when he owned it pre-wrecked a few years back but we didn't touch anything in front of the axle. This time I patched in some new line and disabled the rear weight sensing proportioning valve on it so it'll always have full brake force. Also figured out why it wouldn't idle.... Damn mice made a nest inside the airbox under the filter, it was completely packed. Runs fine now though! The most recent work done was beating in more sheet metal for better tire clearance, added a strap to hold the battery down, disabled the passenger airbag, and removed the rear bumper. The back of it is nice and flat without the bumper and it reminds me of an old school rally hatchback so I'm going to get some big ol mudflaps for the back. Next time I'm at the farm and get it out I'll be sure to snag some pictures. I'm expecting to spend more time on it come spring and summer because my father-in-law and my.. uncle-in-law? both recently bought side by sides. My brother-in-law also got a new 850 quad this year so we've been doing some redneck repairs on the crappy chinese one so we can ride quads as well. More to come once it warms up.
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Lol there ya go, I'd be a little weary doing it with a unibody though, long term it'll get bent up. I bought my 98 Suzuki Sidekick for $200, put $100 in it to fix it, and regularly drive it like you did this truck, wide open and airborne! Best $300 I ever spent!
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Now you're gonna want an off-road toy you can beat on over and over again and not worry about the frame disintegrating.
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Great way to send it off and have a little fun!
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I'll echo the above and would emphasize an LS swap for drifting. That extra power to get the wheels broke loose won't hurt!
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I'm confused about what info they gave you... It was officially called "Metric Ton" not "big ton" and was the towing/hauling package and it definitely came in gas trucks, I've never seen a diesel with the metric ton package but it's possible a few had it. Basically it was an extra leaf in the leaf pack. At least they were correct that the long bed was the only bed length in '86.
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Very nice! Are those laser cut wood?
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If it were me I'd honestly sell any extra parts separately such as the tailgate, trim, and taillights because you will have no trouble selling them by themselves, then you can bring down your price some for the whole lot. Price is really dependent on your area and what else is available so it's hard to say what people would pay around you. It definitely looks like a good starting point for a project but you have to find the right person for that particular project and it gets exponentially harder to find them when the price is higher due to extra parts. I'm sure there is someone out there who would give you what you are asking for everything, just wanted throw out another perspective for you to think about if you aren't getting much interest. Good luck!
