cruiser54

You're using the 91 transfer case also? Yes I am. Going to pull everything as one piece then break it down once it it out. Will I be okay using the 91 case? Yes.

Check this out: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/transmission-going-221548/index2/#post3203079

You're using the 91 transfer case also?

If you want a more powerful blower on a Renix, with less likelihood of burning the brown wire on your ignition switch, do this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

Are we talking Coolant Temp Sensor here? Kinda hard to break one off..... Or, are we talking Sending unit for the gauge on the back of the head which is easily broken by some folks?

This should also be done http://cruiser54.com/?p=58

After reading this thread this morning my aw4 has slipped 3 times today. Never done it before.. And I know my tps didn't get wet... I think this thread is cursed, everyone stay away!! Nobody suggested that guy check the fluid level. LOL. Do this to keep the fluid pressure where it should be.

I just went out to the garage and pulled the Turn/BU fuse on my 87 MJ. Hazards worked with or without key On and turn signals didn't work at all......

He said is hazards work, but turn does not. I found that when I had similar issues. The signal switch was the common unit for both the TURN and BRAKE. Yet they're on different fuses........ Don't think he should check that? One fuse is Turn B/U and the other is Haz/Stop.

Hazard and turn signals are on different fuses...........

Just a few notes here. The ZJ booster/master is not a proven donor as far as I know. It's either 95 to 96 with it's factory spacer or 99 to 2004 wJ and you mod the firewall a bit. Buy one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier. And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..

Here ya go http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=233

That is an awesome write-up. I can't believe I've not seen it before. For sure it will be bookmarked. Would you mind if I put a link to it on my website?

Any pictures of what it look like? I think he means the Hazard switch maybe? But, you already said the Hazards work. That said, are you saying all the flashers work outside the vehicle just fine, with or without headlights on?

how did you eliminate the factory valve and which adjustable one are you running? Remove the load sensing valve and it's metal line all the way to the front. Plug the T that you disconnected the line from in the rear. Remove prop valve. Take the output for the fronts and install a T so you can add both front brake lines to it. Take the rear line and install each end of it into the adjustable prop valve. Wilwood adjustable about $39 at Summit.

1. Yes 2. No spacer. Cut or bend firewall lip a bit. 3. Not sure on this. I eliminate that valve and the brake line to the height sensing valve and use an adjustable prop valve to the rear. I found the factory prop valve had way smaller passages in it for the front brakes than an XJ one. Eliminated it on the first one I did and had way improved braking. The install will be way cleaner if you buy a double flare tool and do the ends yourself.

The Dakota was developed by Chrysler. The Comanche was developed by AMC. Chrysler bought AMC in 1987. Didn't want to give up their POS baby and discontinued the Comanche which was a way better truck.

You bet. Hopefully they used a metric bolt!!

M8X1.25X40

Yup. http://cruiser54.com/?p=54

It's all right in the link below. http://cruiser54.com/?p=121

Here:

I just did my first one with the gM switch. I had always ground the booster rod on the others. Same experience. Too much off, no brake lights. too little off, brake lights always on.

95 to 96 booster (with the 1/4" factory spacer plate on it) with master cylinder or 99 to 04 wJ Grand Cherokee master and booster.

How did you cool it? It had a switch to turn off the heating element, very sophisticated. Heat it up, then cool it down while watching the choke plate. Here Don. http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/blue-point-choke-tester-model-ya862-412923775