cruiser54

Ever see the one on Stacey David's show?

Was this your Miata? Do you drink Heineken? :rotfl2: No, and no.

mOSTLY JUST TO PICK ON dON ANYWAY!! lol

HO temp gauge: SENDER on cylinder head HO ECU: Sensor on thermostat housing HO aux fan: Off/on controlled by ECU Renix temp gauge: SENDER on cylinder head Renix ECU: Sensor on engine block DRIVER SIDE Renix aux fan: Off/on controlled by TEMP SWITCH in the radiator

How about 6 volt VW Bug headlights/

My Miata had an ECU like a REnix. It was a 1990. AFPR to increase fuel pressure under boost. No new fuel rail needed. It fits into the fuel return line to the tank. It had an add-on knock sensor that would retard the timing before detonation occured.

By using an external controller wired into the ECU harness, like A Unichip or Split Second FTC. But that ain't going to work with a Renix. That's why I asked you above how you are going to tune it........... so my options then to prevent knock are going to be with octane and fuel/air temp. hmmm from what I'm reading the ecu controls all the timing through the cps tht said theres no way the ecm can adjust timing based on sfr or be changed... that will take some thought. well if there wasnt road blocks on custom projects they wouldnt be fun right? :laughin: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=boost+timing+retard+control

9 horsepower.

What i did originally was install a 95 booster/master. I left the 2 outlets for the front brakes on the MJ prop valve. I plugged the ports to the rear brakes and used an adjustable prop valve from Summit Racing in a single line back to the rear. Height adjusting valve went away. Later on, I decided to plumb the lines like I always did in the past. I eliminated the MJ prop valve completely and just "married the 2 front lines together with a T. The brakes suddenly got way better. The MJ prop valve had rather small orifices in it. Way smaller than the ID of a metal brake line.

I did a Miata with 10 pounds of boost from a supercharger and had to have timing retard, an auxiliary fuel pressure regulator, knock sensor, and an in dash O2 sensor reading. .

thanx thats a huge help there!! i noticed one of the comments mentioned putting a 90' ECU in his 87 XJ. would there be any real benefit to doing this? obviously the 90' ECU would be tuned for the High Output engine, so what would be the end results? Not tuned for the HO. That's another story. Put an 89 to 90 ECU in it. You'll love it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807

http://cruiser54.com/?p=438

well, i don`t know, drop the starter, wire it to a good battery and make sure it turns as it should, he says the ignition switch is new but is it really working? mine has to be turned and pushed really hard sometimes to make good contact, he has an auto tranny, is the neutral switch really working? the problems seems very straight forward to me... But, it's intermittent. That's why he needs to narrow it down by watching the voltmeter......... If he pulls the starter and it spins, what does that tell him? It's spinning now, but wait, it does that most of the time. The test above will also help pinpoint a bad NSS.

ignition switch <-> Starter/Solenoid... And do what with them?

Start where?

Make a point to watch it every time you go to start your truck.

when you turn the key to Start and nothing happens, what is your voltmeter indicating?

Are you indexing the dizzy per Tip 13?

Very likely your TPS is bad. That said, have you done Tips 1 through 5 yet?

The big one?

Check the vacuum line to the MAP sensor very closely.

This one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPGRADE-JEEP-4-0L-BOSCH-TYPE-III-FUEL-INJECTORS-SET-6-19LB-EV1-4-hole-0280155746/232186346006?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3Dde2c5f356a174a219d464c2cdfcae52e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D301373999619

The shirt is an easy one.....

i GOT A NEW SHIRT AND A PIECE OF @$$. THEY WERE BOTH TOO BIG.