SVPete

I made my drain plug remover out of a bolt with a file in about 15 minutes (and a few skivvies under the truck to check the fit).

I need the fitting that attaches to the clutch bleed line on a BA10/5 internal slave cylinder. If you have an old slave cylinder or transmission laying around that you would be willing to strip the fitting off, it would be much appreciated.

I have said that soooo many times when working on equipment or coaching some of my Joes on fixing equipment.

The spring was intact in the original transducer? Mine was rusted away to dust.

The door panel clips work great. Whenever I come across a Cherokee in the junkyard I get the clips from the door panels. The ones on the rear panels typically look brand new.

I got something that worked from my local Ace Hardware.

Here is the write up in the DIY section that I followed.

I drilled around them, got out with pliers, filled with epoxy/chopped fiberglass mix.

That looks in pretty good shape. How is the interior? New fuel, carb cleaner, new oil, and battery.....might stand a good chance of firing up. It is a Toyota.

Got replacements for my Cherokee from Morris 4X4.

Would it be near a military installation? Seems like all my stateside assignments had at least one town nearby that seemed to make its living off of giving G.I.'s speeding tickets or the like.

To do it well, remove the trim from the door. That involves disassembling most of the door to include the glass. It looks like your outside scraper seal could use replacement, you'll know if they are cracked and hard. Since you will have the triangle window out, it is worthwhile to replace the window seal on it when out (called a glass division bar) if it is cracked, broken, and hard. OEM type replacement of that will run around $45 each, but you can find rubber window weather channel in the junkyard that will work fine. Recommend to check imports for size that will work. The black coating on the trim seams to be some type of rubberized coating. What has worked for me when the trim is out: 1. Heat gun with a stiff putty knife first. 2. Sand with 80-120 grit emery cloth using sander to remove residue. 3. Sand with 120 grit by hand along the length in a straight line to remove the scoring from the previous sanding. 4. Run some steel wool down the length as a final step. Remove the plastic end caps on the lower trim piece before working that one....obviously. The trim is aluminum, so leaving is bare is okay. Again, best to do this in conjunction with other work on the door. How they look stripped on my door....

Gotta say I'm on the IPA bandwagon too. Bouncing around with different ones, the hoppier the better.....I'll never pass up a Guiness...and I tried every local dark beer I could when in Germany.

I used VW lights available at most junkyards.

Same here. Chopped fiberglass and epoxy mix.

My 1992 XJ is automatic too. I used a screwdriver and 18" breaker bar to break it loose both times. First time the bumper was off for other reasons. Second time, earlier this month, I didn't remove anything but the skid plate I recently installed. A powered tool certainly will make removing the bolt easier, but I don't have one. Balancer on my MJ and XJ are both the Dorman brand from RockAuto. MJ was done a couple of years ago (215,000 miles), XJ needed it replaced when I bought it (165,000 miles). I think the seal I used was Duralast from AutoZone.

A harmonic balancer puller and installer can be borrowed from autozone under their loan-a-tool program. You do not have to remove the radiator or anything else but the belt on a 4.0.....other than a skid plate, if installed. If the bumper is removed, it is easier, but not necessary to accomplish the task. The right tools make it a 1 hour job tops, not including the front seal, which I highly recommend you replace since you have the balancer off. Did this twice in the past year on my Cherokee (since I didn't replace that seal....)

Nice shirt

Not exactly the Tech section, but have you opened up the transducer? It can be separated. The spring inside was rusted away on mine in the past. Take care not to damage the diaphragm in the process (like I likely did). Perhaps you can experiment with springs from local hardware store to put it back into operation if the original spring is red powder.

I must honestly say, I never noticed anyone doing the "Jeep" wave.

Bleed screw snapped off. Kind of expected that. Anyone know where I can get the fitting it goes into? Internet searches give me a bad feeling it is either junkyard or entire slave cylinder.

Thanks. I will take a look this weekend. I am letting PB Blaster try to work it's magic on the clutch bleeder screw that has never been loosened. No leaks, looked at that yesterday. Clutch pedal broke in 1992, had it welded then. I'll take another look. Replaced brakes fluid about three years ago when I replaced calipers, wheel cylinders, and rubber lines.

Robbie95 - Any update to this? Happened to me today.

As a starter suggestion, go to the "MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write Ups" section. Read "What Minuit know about stock Jeep Radios". It is on the first page. May not have the answer, but a lot of knowledge there.