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About SVPete

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Sierra Vista, Arizona

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  1. The actual swivel vent comes out. The two molded pins that it pivots on, flex to allow you to remove it. Same for all vents. Since you have the panel out, it should be relatively easy to see how the are installed. Sorry - don't have a picture of it. Removing them lets you do a good cleaning. Doesn't really help the bigger question of removing the entire black plastic assembly.
  2. Yep. That was happening on an XJ I bought at the beginning of the year.....the harmonic balancer pulley (metal) was also cutting into the timing cover. Owner was spraying silicone spray on the belt to make the sound go away.
  3. I drilled around the broken screw, pulled it out, filled the hole with a chopped fiberglass/epoxy mix, put the marker light back up there and re-drilled a hole.
  4. Agree with everyone. I took my regulators out, cleaned them, fixed them (corrosion and worn spot), lightly lubed them with lithium grease, and they work easy-peasy (after adjusting the triangle window bolt a little).
  5. Didn't use anything. The wire is pretty thick and was tough to maneuver into position. The holes I drilled were a good tight fit.
  6. I used a piece of solid copper wire I had laying around. Drilled a hole in the metal back and in the plastic side.
  7. Add this to the to-do list also: 4. Hose the lock mechanism down with de-greaser. Then hose it down some more. (then put some not 30 year old grease on it)
  8. Yes, the internal rod-spring thing likely has a worn spot (or corroded). You can try swapping the internal from the passenger side to the driver's side..... if it doesn't look like the bottom one in the photo attached (that was my passenger side). The only way you will know is to take it out and look. It is some work, but really not that hard. To get the window regulator out to work on it, you will have to: 1. Remove the interior door panel. 2. Roll the window down as far as you can. 3. Remove the top/rear (one piece) window glass channel (pinch and pull it right out). 4. Disconnect the glass from the regulator (a nut) and slide the glass down as far as it will go (to the bottom of the door). 5. Remove the interior window scraper seal (pulls right off). 6. Remove the triangle window (two screws on top of door and one bolt inside door...and a good tug). 7. Take the window glass out now. 8. Drill out the aluminum rivets holding the regulator in (around 6....easy) and drill out the two rivets holding the strap across the opening (you'll know). Replace with short nuts, bolts, and washers. 9. Jockey the regulator out. 10. A couple of screwdrivers and pliers will bend up the bottom of the regulator to pull the rod-spring thing out. If you jump all into it, it is a good time to: 1. Replace the outside window scraper seal since it is likely hardened and broken up. 2. Replace the roll-up window weatherstripping on the triangle window channel (called a glass division bar). Buying it new is pricey, but you can find weatherstripping that will work in the junkyard if you are willing to search. 3. If you have black metal trim around your window that is peeling, it is a good time to remove it (pry gently from the inside), and strip it down. Heat gun, putty knife, 240 grit sand paper, and a scotch-brite pad will do a good job there. In my limited observation (my truck and at the junkyard), the passenger side tends to experience the corrosion like the bottom item in the photo. The pieces in the photo are exactly the same on manual regulators...whether, left side, right side, front, or rear. You can use this internal piece from the rear window crank of a Cherokee to fix yours. I do not know if this internal piece is the same on the power windows. I haven't had a reason to check. I would recommend that you PERSONALLY look at that in a junkyard if you have no other options.
  9. Pretty sure I could make something like that for the Cherokee out of a couple of my free harbor freight tarps, some broom sticks, a couple of cinder blocks, and string I have laying around. Won't exactly look all sharper image like the photo though.
  10. I made mine with a bolt and a file in about 15 minutes.
  11. The fuse was installed all these years (not sure why though...). Maybe I wasn't holding my tongue right. I'll probably swap it into the Cherokee and see if it works (since the Cherokee has this feature already).
  12. Either I got a bad one at the pull-a-part or (which I suspect) this doesn't work with the headlight harness upgrade?
  13. Take a hard look at the rear window glass where it is set in the metal frame. Mine looked like the rubber between the glass and the frame was deteriorated. I ran some silicone caulk around the glass and frame. Wouldn't be surprised if the weatherstripping on your slider was worn out too. Agree on the radio antenna grommet, although that should only affect the passenger side (mine had fallen out). There are several posts on the site in reference to water leaks. Review those if you haven't already. In them you will see a recommendation to use baby powder to help track down leaks.
  14. If you are looking for the metal trim around the window opening, they are the same on 4 door Cherokees. Sorry, don't have any laying around, but I see them on the now rare Cherokee in the junkyard. Next time I go, I'll look, but it may be a while.
  15. The two typical reasons the lights don't work are a bad bulb (obviously), and corrosion on the bulb connection and switch contacts.
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