SVPete

If you are referring the the silver trim around the window below....The trim originally had a black coating which was almost like a decal of some type. I cleaned mine with a heat gun and then sanded it with a 240 grit emery cloth (to finish removing the adhesive). I appears to be aluminum, so I left it stripped. I do intend to remove it and paint it black one day when I replace the door locks. To remove the trim from the door, you have to take all the glass out (having done it a few times, it's not that daunting), remove the inside and outside scraper seals (easy), and the window channel (easy). The trim is just wedged on around the door frame (like a pinch seal) and comes off with some gentle prying from the inside edge. Remove the lower trim first. It's kind of one of those things to do when you have another reason to be gutting the door.

Straight-ish. It will curve some tying into the fender flares, plus the years of wind beating on it.

I agree with Minuit. Not sure why you would want to install a lap belt versus a three-point belt. As far as fixing goes....If it isn't working right, get a new one. Your life is worth a new belt.

From the photos, the interior looks in pretty good shape. Can't see any cracks in the dash, headliner shell looks to be there. Pulling the carpet and washing it always makes things look better. If it was in my area, for that price, I would definitely give it a quick hard look.

^^^^Hmmm....that's good to know^^^^^

I endured intermittent high rev's on start up. One of the relays near the battery is supposed to allow the IAC to reset after you shut the engine off. Recommend cleaning the contacts and you can also swap the relays around. My problem was cured after I cleaned the connector for the coolant temp sensor.....and I also replaced the ECU at the same time with one from a 1990 Cherokee. So I can't be sure which one solved it. But I cleaned a lot of things first, so please don't run out and simply replace parts first. Refer to Cruisers Tips for many cleaning things to do for Renix trucks. The C101 cleaning is a pain, but necessary along with grounds refreshing/improvements. It is worthwhile to remove and clean the Idle Air Temperature Sensor located on the intake manifold. They can get pretty nasty over the years. I used electrical contact cleaner, de-greaser, and pipe cleaners. If the thermistor is covered with gunk, I'm not sure how it can get a good reading. Recommend to start with cleaning things first, especially connectors. Attached is the Renix fuel injection manual. It is a good read if you don't have it. Are you still having stalling issues? Jeep_Renix_Fuel_Injection_manual.pdf

If you are referring to the rectangular block-offs on each side of the dash panel (in-board from the cigarette lighter and headlight switch), they are for various switches for options that I don't have either. Perhaps cargo light, fog lights, power switch (auto transmission), other things?

In order to pass inspection, can't you simply restore it to the original configuration since it was working before you installed the supplemental harness? That would be the best troubleshooting option at the moment. If the headlights work properly again, then you received a bad harness that you can return for replacement.

About a year ago I installed a new Pioneer (DEH-X3900BT) AM/FM/CD/BT/Media head unit from Amazon ($75). I'm not engaging in any stereo wars, but it sounds good and has good volume with the Boss Chaos 3-way speakers I put in the doors (5.25") and rear (4" x 6") at the same time . I'm happy....but understand my original door speakers were shot and the rear speakers were the originals also, but completely functional, so almost anything was going to be an improvement. $15 (and an extra $5 off, to make it $10) and $18 dollars, respectively, from Amazon for the speakers. The front speakers are rated to 200 watts and the rears are rated at 250, if that means anything to you. At those prices, certainly not top of the line, but I just listen to the oldies (60's, 70's, 80's) driving to and from work. I'm not engaging in any stereo wars. The radio fits the opening well without an additional face plate. It does stick out some, but so what. Positives = Blue Tooth phone / still can play my CD's / can charge the phone / radio Negatives = External microphone for BT phone (but it really doesn't matter to me) / I think the model is discontinued

Any resolution?

Not sure how long you have had the truck, but changing the coolant while you are at it doesn't hurt. If you have the closed cooling system, it will take some time to refill your cooling system. Meaning fill, run, stop, cool.....fill, run, stop, cool....a few times. If I understand your reference to a "protective sleeve" to mean the plastic mesh weave over the hose......just move if over from the old hose. Please add your vehicle information to your signature. Instructions on how to do so are on the first page of this forum. It will help all of us by knowing what you have since there are differences from 1986-1992.

Did the harness come with two relays? Maybe try swapping the relays? If the lows stay off and the highs come on, that is likely the problem.

And no more brake pedal to the floor I hope?

The flasher relay is the top circle in the above diagram (since the lower right is marked HAZ). That doesn't mean the orientation of your fuse box matches the diagram. Look at the fuse box located down by your left foot. Swap the large circular relays, you'll know which ones by looking. If someone has put LED's in all signal locations that can cause a hyperflash unless you install a relay that supports LED's.

The rusty steel line in the center of your photo is not a brake line. Pretty sure that is the fuel tank vent line that runs to your charcoal canister using the rubber line connected to it. If that is creating the white smoke......it would get me scared. Can you cut it and replace the rubber hose....yes. It is not high pressure. It should only carry vapor.

Might want to remove the bench and tighten up the cable/hooks so it pulls the passenger side latch better. Worked for me. And....replaced the backup light switch this morning to get my reverse lights working.

I would certainly follow Cruiser's advice and do a good cleaning of the IAC and the throttle body passages first. Can a bad EGR valve or EGR transducer (which comes with a new EGR valve, the more likely culprit between the two in my opinion) cause this type of problem? In my opinion, yes on the stalling, no on the high revs on start up. As a test, you can disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid and plug it with a golf tee to eliminate vacuum which activates the EGR. The solenoid is located on the drivers side fender near the air cleaner. You want to disconnect and plug the elbow connection, not the funky one with a filter on it. If your stalling issue goes away, then you have narrowed the shot-group.

Yes...Phoenix and Tucson are much hotter than down near the border.

When it dies, will the truck re-start right away or does it have to sit a while (or crank it a long time before it will start like it is flooded)?

Conventional 10W30. Live in Southern, Southern Arizona. Change oil and filter about every 4,000 miles.

Just a friendly note, this is posted in the "wanted" section. Looks like you are trying to sell.

My truck did not have plugs in that location.

Did you clean/check the negative ground connection at the block already?

Mine broke where it passes through the bracket. No ill effects either. Maybe I'll epoxy it together one day.....if I don't break the retainer off too.

Haven't used it, but I will be looking for some reason to try this. SCIENCE!