SVPete

I read the options listed by Minuit as "Black, Right, Manual" as...... the drivers mirror was standard, and the passenger mirror (right) was an option. "Manual" meaning, you have to push on the mirror to set them (like mine, and your driver mirror also).

It's only eight nuts and the two seat belt bolts. With the proper tools, 10-15 minutes to take it out.

From your photos: The top vacuum line in the first photo goes the middle port in your second photo. The middle vacuum line in your first photo goes to a port the right side of your second photo (the actual port isn't visible in the photo). The lower vacuum line goes to the port on the left of your second photo. I used ordinary vacuum hose when my original connector broke.

Recommend to check Rockauto and Amazon for parts.

Standard width of the material is around 54 inches. I bought two yards (72" long by 54" wide) and that was enough to screw it up once, do it right, and also re-cover the visors.

And to follow up.....I recommend becoming an Amazon Prime member. Lots of stuff is available via Amazon at prices better than the stores (not all, so be willing to look.....like a Wix filter for my truck is a better deal at O'rielly's than Amazon) and Prime membership gives you a lot of other things including free 2-day shipping on a lot of items.

On AutoZone.com, the Duralast AC delete pulley, which is grooved, (called an idler pulley also on the site) is $17. Part number 231082. This is a hard ABS-type plastic pulley. I have bought this and carry it in my truck box as a spare. The Duralast idler pulley, which is smooth, is $18. Part number 231097. This is a metal pulley. I have bought this and it is currently installed on my truck. If memory serves me right, there was something funky about the bushing that came with one of them. There is also listed an AC Delco smooth idler pulley for $25. Part number 38042.

I recently put Boss Chaos 3-way speakers in the doors (5.25") and rear (4" x 6"). I'm happy....but understand my original door speakers were shot and the rear speakers were the originals also, but completely functional, so almost anything was going to be an improvement. $15 (and an extra $5 off, to make it $10) and $18 dollars, respectively, from Amazon for the speakers. I also installed a new Pioneer AM/FM/CD/BT/Media head unit from Amazon ($75). I can get some pretty good bass between all of them with the various adjustments which can be made via the radio. At those prices, certainly not top of the line, but I just listen to the oldies (60's, 70's, 80's) driving to and from work. I'm not engaging in any stereo wars. The front speakers are rated to 200 watts and the rears are rated at 250, if that means anything to you.

Interesting, I got replacement AC delete and idler pulleys from AutoZone, at least in this century, if not this decade. Just looked at the website, both are still available from AutoZone.

Agree with ParadiseMJ, rock hard. Belt dressing just seemed to eat away the belt and leave deposits on the idler pulley. Ended up buying another new belt, cleaning all the rubber goo off the pulley, and tightening the crap out of it. I only ever had squeeling with a new belt that one time over the years. Anyone what to buy a can of belt dressing? Hardly used. Can't get any takers for 25 cents at garage sales. Next time I'll put it on the Free table and see if it disappears.

I'm not so sure about the coolant theories. I had yellow-ish brown snot looking stuff in the recesses of top of my air filter housing.Really located where the forward CCV hose connects to the air filter canister lid. Cleaned all that out when I was following Cruisers tip for eliminating/reducing oil blow-by on the air filter. I hadn't been losing coolant (nor have I ever other than an obvious leak from a hose or the radiator.......knock on wood), so that's my reason for not being sold on the coolant theory (unless your coolant IS going "somewhere"). I don't have an alternative theory other than "old age"? Accumulation of "stuff"? Is the hose the original?

Agree with mikekaz1. Put the incandescent's back in the front (returning to original configuration before problem started) and confirm things return to normal. If all signals work properly, then the flasher relay is still the problem. What flasher relay did you buy?

I assume everything worked properly before you put the LED's in?

10W-30 with a dash of lucas oil stabilizer.

Besides the obvious screws, on the drivers side, there are two panel fasteners (christmas tree type) over the top of the door opening. The passenger side is held on in approximately the same location by the screws for the overhead handle (if you have one). After that, it is some wiggling to get them completely out since there is a lip on the trim where it slides down between the dash and cab body (which can make for a pretty tight fit). Look between the side of the cab and the side of the dash while wiggling them and you will get a glimpse of them. If you haven't removed the kick panels, I recommend you do so.

Funny, I've trusted the voltmeter in my truck for 29 years and I still always believe it.

It is quite possible that you require a new turn signal flasher relay and hazard flasher relay using LED's in all turn signal lamp sockets. There isn't enough electrical load with LED's to make a normal relay work. With a little googling or checking on amazon you can find a flasher relay that is LED compatible. They will run about $13. If you haven't done so yet, recommend you put the incandescent bulbs back in the front (or rear) turn signal locations and confirm your turn signals return to normal operation.

I bought a Dual unit from Walmart around Thanksgiving. Installed it and the FM would fade out like I was going through a tunnel at times. The radio station is less than two miles away. Returned it to Walmart. If your connections are correct and power exists, don't fight it, take that POS back. You post convinces me that is a garbage brand.

That doesn't sound like backfiring to me. Your engine noise reminds me of a street sweeper engine that had a push rod slip out of place on a valve rocker arm. You may be able to peek at some via the oil fill hole on top of the valve cover. If the connector you are referring to is a four wire plug near the throttle position sensor, yes, that is for automatic transmissions.

I am not a big ole tree-hugger, but wasn't that pollution control equipment put on for a reason? To control pollution, right? What are you really gaining by removing/bypassing it besides contributing to a problem?

I'm sure I read this before, the item shown on the link is identified as non-compatible with a 1988 (or 1989, for that matter) Comanche. I am assuming it actually is compatible?

If you were able to use the key to lock and unlock it (after unlocking it from inside), that would indicate everything is at least connected. I'm still thinking cleaning is in order. Even when my locks didn't want to work properly, the key still turned.....just not quite enough to cause the latch to unlock. If you haven't taken the door panel off yet to eyeball things, that is were I would recommend starting.

Keep it simple. I had problems for years with doors that didn't want to unlock. My solution was to leave it unlocked like kook911 (and the fact that the truck had other issues and anyone trying to steal it would give up trying to drive it). Since the trucks works correctly now, I figured I would investigate the locks...... After all these years, I will bet a Coke the lock/latch mechanism is gummed up (if everything is connected). Take the door panel off and liberally hose down the door latch mechanism with a de-greaser spray (pressurized, not squirt), from inside the door and from outside at the latch. Get the plastic tube into all the nooks and crannies of the latch that you can. When you think you've done it enough, do it some more. Put your key in and start manipulating the lock also. The focus of cleaning is the latch, not the lock cylinder. Your truck will smell for a few days. I thought about removing the latch mechanism to clean/soak it, but after really analyzing where all the linkages connect (with those plastic clips that were going to break), clean in place seemed to be the better option. This doesn't help frozen locks, but I live in Arizona, I'll worry about the window weatherstripping another day. I am sure at some point that an appropriate lube will be in order, right now I am happy the locks work.

I made some shims out of thin scrap sheet metal (actually an old breadmaker) using a pair of scissors and a file since there are not any junkyards worth a crap in my area. Their shape is like an "E" and they slide in from the top. I made them to supplement the factory shims since I was having the same problem your photos show (daylight in the same areas). I have identical factory shims on the top and bottom, I added my homemade shims to the bottom to kick the door up. I don't see any cracking of welds on your hinges from the photos unless they have been re-welded in the past really well. Try opening the door, kneeling, put your knee underneath the end of the door and lift by raising your knee (your foot really). That will be a really good way to check if the hinge pins are worn. Your photo shows a lot of sag that I wouldn't attribute just to missing shims.

WrenchMonkey posted this in DIY...... http://comancheclub.com/topic/14466-broken-door-hinge-welds-cheap-n-easy-fix/