SVPete

What timing....I've been looking/researching for clarity on this too. I was going to order the same cable, CA-3068, from Summit Racing tonight. Please report back whether it is correct.

Too early to call it fixed......? I too have been experiencing a high idle periodically on start up and sometimes the idle would seem (audibly) high when I would pull up to a light or stop sign. I worked through / checked a lot of things including many of Cruisers tips. I was just enduring it since I hadn't figured it out. For some reason on Saturday, I pulled the Manifold Air Temperature sensor out again and cleaned the crap out of it. I had done that previously, but I'll say it was a "good enough" cleaning (considering what it looked like before, all mucked up). This time I used degreaser and a pipe cleaner and made the thermistor inside shine since it still had baked on brown stuff on it. So far, for 2 1/2 days, it has made a difference. No extremely high revs on start up and the engine is audibly idling lower as I am driving. This doesn't mean it is the magic bullet. Certainly work through Cruisers tips, but add this to the list if you haven't removed and cleaned it......really well. And remember to clean the contacts in every electrical connector you disconnect.

My truck has been my daily driver since October 1988 to present, except when in Germany, war, or otherwise deployed. My daily commute is 25 miles round trip between 35-45 mph. The truck has been on the side of the road two times (knock on wood)...once when the clutch pedal broke in 1992 and around 2007-ish when I tried to limp home with a dead battery. The truck endured years (decades?) of minimal maintenance, but just wouldn't quit. If that's not reliable, I don't know what is.

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Your photo looks exactly like the factory CCV setup. I would start with new lines for your CCV since the front one looks like it is taped up. Go to Cruiser54.com and look at all things, but in this case review tips 22 and 25. Clean the openings in top of the air filter cover too, since they will get filled with gunk. As far as the EGR transducer goes, basically with that connection broken, the EGR valve will not function. When the exhaust pressure rises, that line pushes up on a diaphragm in the transducer. The diaphragm seals a vacuum bleed hole, which then allows vacuum to activate the EGR valve (provided the ECU has opened the EGR solenoid) (which then allows some exhaust gases to go to the throttle body to be burned again doing one little bit to save the environment....?). It you go to a junkyard to get a transducer, carefully pop it open to ensure the spring inside hasn't rusted away.

I experienced bucking (although I never heard a backfire explosion noise) and dying issues (driving along and the engine just stopped running, no rhyme or reason). The problem for me was between the EGR and transducer, coil (original at the time), distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I say between because: The spring in the EGR transducer was rusted to dust. The only way to get a new transducer is with a new EGR. While waiting for the EGR valve to come it, I broke a plug wire. So I had to wait for everything to come in and replaced all those items at one time. Problem was solved, although I really would have liked to know which was the culprit (it is possible I had a more than one issue). Upon visual inspection, I was pretty sure one of my plug wires was making poor contact with the plug. I checked, cleaned, tested as many things as I could according to Cruisers tips first. So that would be a good place to start if you haven't done so already.

Another thought. Doesn't the bottom bolt for the triangle window pass through a slotted hole? I seem to remember playing with the positioning of that bolt when putting my windows back in the door. The more I think about it, I'm pretty sure my window was pretty tight when I first put things together.

To go back to the original question: I assume you removed the vent (or fixed) window when you installed the glass division bar (the item you have circled - I think that's its name). I believe you pretty much have to if you want to get all the pieces out since it is held in by a rivet near the bottom. It would seem extremely difficult to replace with the vent window installed. If you didn't get all of the old one out, perhaps that is causing the binding issue? I would recommend removing the window regulators completely, pulling the worm-screw rod thing the glass actually attaches to, and cleaning both pieces. I'm not sure if they are supposed to be lubricated, but I put a little grease on them and things are very smooth. Removing the window regulator is really not that hard to do.

Two that I personally experienced are: The radio antenna cable runs out of the cab behind the passenger side kick panel. It has a large rubber grommet that shrinks and falls out. So that is one place to check. The other was the rear window. Do a search on the forum for water in cab and I suspect you will find other discussions on this topic.

This will sound dumb, but.....confirm you have the correct bulbs installed.

I am the original owner of my 1988 5-speed manual Pioneer. Following advice gleaned from this forum, I have an automatic transmission TPS installed (two plugs, maybe six wires, never bother to count) since they presumably work the same and cost a lot less than the manual transmission TPS. My engine harness also has the corresponding connector, but I don't have it connected. The truck works fine.

I used bolts. 1/4 inch if I remember correctly. Didn't drill anything. Spent time at the junkyard removing hinge pins from some rear Cherokee doors (figured less wear on the rear). I got four sets since the pins on a 1986 and 1990 looked to different diameters (they were). They didn't fix the sag in my drivers door, but the bolts snugged the door up pretty good along with a really thin washer (had to file one thinner).

I put in some purple (figured, why not...my interior is totally blue) LED's from Amazon. Got 10 for 9 dollars. They can be dimmed slightly. Look a little, there are many colors. Read the reviews since some are really bright. If you drive a lot at night (I don't) a bright dash is not a good thing. Perhaps less "SMD's" (that's the amount of light chips) is better for regular night driving. Most of these type are polarity sensitive, so check for proper operation before putting everything back together. You may need to turn them 180 degrees (I put about 5 out of the 9 in the correct orientation the first time). Partsam 10PCS Car Interior Dome Map Lights 8-3020-SMD T10 Wedge 194 168 W5W 158 2825 Purple Epistar LED Bulbs

HCH is $3.99 and SKF is $7.30 from Amazon with free shipping. The bearing we need for both idler pulleys is not difficult to find, we just need to figure out what we are looking for. That's why I get the pleasure of paying more than I really need to at times.

So..... I'm still looking for a good part number for an A/C delete pulley. Well, since my original grooved AC delete pulley finally crapped out last week..... The plastic grooved pulley from AutoZone (Part number 231082) is installed on my truck is working fine (not that I trust it long term)....I used the spacer that comes with the smooth pulley (Part number 231097) rather than the factory spacer. Obviously the factory spacer will bind the plastic pulley, but the smaller spacer with the replacement smooth idler pulley is a good fit. I see no issues with the alignment of the plastic grooved pulley. Whereas the plastic grooved pulley is slightly smaller than the original, I had no problem tightening up the old belt. I had a friend install a new bearing in the original metal pulley. Bearing 6203-2RS is what I used, which means: 6 = Single row deep groove ball bearing 2 = Light duty 03 = 17mm inside diameter (which should come with 40mm outside diameter and 12mm thick) 2RS = Rubber seals on both sides I paid $16 for the bearing from NAPA (SKF brand), which was 3-4 times the cost for a bearing from Amazon.....now that I am smarter on bearings. I will install a new bearing in my original smooth pulley (bought from Amazon), rather than buy another pulley.

In my reading, the solenoid is normally open. It is closed upon a signal from the ECU. So I'm believe blowing through it doesn't prove anything. HOrnbrod may have been referring to a multimeter reading of open (no continuity). Wouldn't a vacuum leak cause a high idle, not a low idle? Somewhere on the site is a link to the Renix Fuel Injection manual. It is located here from BioTex http://www.alpinefurniturestore.com/JeepDocumentation/MJs/Jeep_Renix_Fuel_Injection_manual.pdf

Thought my washer pump had quit working for years. One day when I finally decided to troubleshoot it, turned out the "T" fitting which supplies the fluid to both sprayers was broken. It is located under the cowling where the wiper motor is located. My wife noticed the water dripping under the truck.... Certainly worth the dummy check.

Had my bench seat recovered about two years ago for around $400. The material itself has a foam backing. He slipped a couple of carpet squares in above the springs which gave back some of the firmness.

If you feel a vibration through your shifter, I recommend to check the transmission mount. If it is original, it likely has rotted into pieces. If you feel a twist when you take off in first, definitely check the mount. I don't think that would have anything to do with the vibration you feel in the front right side though....

Out of interest....how?

Try shooting some lube through the lock cylinder first. Yes Good idea. The junkyard is also a place to see things.....and practice.

What do you mean by the rocker button on the door will not function? Do you mean, when you push it nothing happens? Like nothing is connected? Or it doesn't move at all? The grease hardening over the years on the door latch mechanism can make it tougher to unlock the door with a key. The lock cylinder will rotate, but just not quite enough to make the door lock bellcrank (not sure what to call it) on the latch actually move. You can try squirting some lubricant in the lock cylinder....maybe that will give you just enough to be able to unlock it (my locks were stiff, and when I would do that, they would work better for a week or so. The cure is to hose down the latch mechanism with de-greaser and a q-tip). You still should be able to remove the interior door handle with the door closed. Perhaps you might be able to move the lock rod attached to rocker button that way. When things are gummed up, it can get tough to move also.

Although I didn't mess with my door handles, I certainly observed recently while working on my doors, that pulling out the window glass (both the up/down window and vent window), window regulator, and inside/outside scraper seals will give you a LOT more visibility and additional room to work around the exterior door handle. If I ever decide to replace the door locks or handle, that is the route I will take. Maybe not what you wanted to hear, but it really wasn't that hard to pull all that out.

Trying to say this nicely.......a tape measure might get you the information you seek.

Kind of looks like my paint. I think it was called "Baltic Blue". Edit: "Dark Baltic Metallic" is the paint name on my paperwork. It shows a paint code of "CE"?