SVPete

Thanks Big Dan. Appreciate the response.

My read of the renix fuel injection manual would lead me to believe that you could leave it disconnected. If a knock generates an electrical signal which would then cause the ECU to retard timing for 15-ish seconds, then return it to normal.... If it's not connected, then it can't send a signal to retard the timing...right? Maybe some smarter guys will confirm or shoot me down.

The inside of my bell housing was pretty mucky when I removed the transmission. I suspect the front seal on the input shaft is leaking. Wondering of the notch in the photo is to facilitate removal of the front oil seal on a BA 10/5 transmission? Anyone know? Looks like it would, can't think of any other reason for the notch. Having the remove the front plate (and getting those studs out....) to replace the oil seal would be pretty stupid. I know I just opened the door for comments about our erstwhile ally....

Well...the original slave cylinder is plastic. Are they loose when installed? Seems like a pretty cheesy way they are installed.

Recommend you read Dammerung's thread about 2/3 of the way down on this first page.

I will be replacing the clutch, flywheel, and associated stuff on my truck after 232,000 miles, which has a BA10/5 transmission. Reviewing the forum history there appears to be a preference for LUKS components. Anyone use the AMS kit in the below link? Anyone have a bad experience with AMS parts (or other brands)? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10338764&cc=1181584&jsn=424 Read comments about LUKS slave cylinders exploding, not sure if this is common, isolated, or occurs with any make. Any guesses as to what causes that issue? Is the replacement slave cylinder made from plastic and the original from metal? Anything I should be aware of when ordering? Not looking to go rock crawling or drag racing with my truck, just drive it around like I have for all these years. Recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

So the bucking is gone with the EGR plugged? Still stalling? Assume you have checked/adjusted the TPS?

Not sure what the problem is. I've replace mine twice over the years. Figure I'm getting about 10 years out of them. Bought from AutoZone both times. Once in Kansas in the late 90's, once here in AZ. Now that I've jinxed myself.....

WahooSteeler posted some photos of the EGR transducer and a writeup that may be helpful in the below thread: An EGR problem isn't likely caused by the EGR itself (although cleaning out the carbon buildup is a good thing to do), but by the transducer. Either by the vacuum bleed hole being plugged or the spring rusted away. I don't think there is a magic bullet answer and I understand your frustration...been there. I experienced bucking (although I never heard a backfire explosion noise) and dying issues (driving along and the engine just stopped running, no rhyme or reason, injectors would fire a few more times flooding the engine and having to crank forever to restart). The problem for me was between the EGR and transducer, coil (original at the time), distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, and plugs. I say between because: The spring in the EGR transducer was rusted to dust. The only way to get a new transducer is with a new EGR (which seems to be no longer available). While waiting for the EGR valve to come it, I broke a plug wire. So I had to wait for everything to come in and replaced all those items at one time. Problem was solved, although I really would have liked to know which was the culprit (it is possible I had a more than one issue). Upon visual inspection, I was pretty sure one of my plug wires was making poor contact with the plug. I checked, cleaned, tested as many things as I could according to Cruisers tips first. So that would be a good place to start if you haven't done so already. I had been thinking that maybe the catalytic converter was clogged causing it, but I cured it as mentioned above. Funnily, when I replaced the exhaust system later, the entire matrix in the cat was gone, it had turned into a straight pipe. Not saying that a clogged cat couldn't be a problem, just thinking that the backfiring/explosions/bucking would destroy the cat matrix (would that push it into the muffler then?). So a clogged cat was not part of my problem. Another thread to check out is:

Mine came only with the lower chrome trim around the armrest/handle.....like Pete M said....

Recommend you fix the issue since it isn't that hard to do. The internal "regulator cable" is the same for all doors between a Comanche and all four doors on a Cherokee with manual windows. Not sure if that is true with the power windows, but I believe I read previously in the forum that they were. Manual windows are not quite the unicorn, I see them periodically when I go to the junkyards. Perhaps that depends upon what area of the country you are in. In my limited observation, the passenger side tends to have a greater corrosion problem than the driver's. If it looks like the bottom one in the photo (mine), then the regulator cable needs replacement. If it simply has a worn spot, then you may be able to simply swap the regulator cables between the driver and passenger side. It's really not that hard and presents a great opportunity to knock out some other things at the same time, like: Cleaning up the peeling black coating on the window trim (unless you have chrome). Replacing the cracked window channel on the vent window (glass division bar). Recommend regular old rubber window channel for that. Walk through the imports section of the JY looking for that. Replacing the cracked outside window scraper seal. Removing the door latch and cleaning the 30 year old solidified grease out of it. Replacing the door locks if they are wonky. Cleaning and greasing the outside door handles (or replacing). Removing and cleaning the door check (the grease will almost be like beeswax, this is a pain). Replace speakers? General interior cleaning of the door. Replacing the torn/non-existent plastic sheeting that protects the interior door panel. Of course, I don't know the condition of your truck, but it's likely some of the above apply.

I get around 20 MPG. 1988, 4.0L, Peugeot 5 speed manual, 3.08 rear axle, 4WD, P235 tires. 232K miles on engine/drivetrain. I drive to and from work, about 12-13 miles, at maybe an average speed of 40 MPH.

Try removing the vacuum line elbow from the EGR solenoid and plugging it with golf tee. That's next to the fuel pump ballast resistor in the photo. Drive for a couple of days. If the stalling, etc. goes away, next thing to look at is the EGR transducer.

Not sure if this is honey. I have one and two bezels, which all came from the same vehicle.

Looks similar to the one that came with my '88, however you'll notice mine has a lip all the way around the base. Could just be a minor difference over the years. You can see the folding jack handle in the photo too. It will operate the spare tire winch (the tapered end of the lug wrench works well also). The folding jack handle was used on the Cherokee's also, so you may find that at a junkyard. The jack is stowed under the rear seat in a Cherokee.

Perhaps it is a new design that eliminates the transducer by integrating it's function into the valve. Maybe that's why there are two holes in the body of the replacement EGR. Does it bolt up?

If you recently replaced the bulbs, did you put the correct ones in? Should be double contact bulbs (two contacts on the bottom of the bulb). Sounds like you have single contact bulbs installed in those sockets....

The bench seat does look comfortable though....

PDF of some of the paperwork. Original_Jeep_Paperwork.pdf

I will scan mine in. got to shield the PII. For the vets out there, you know that our "service number" was on everything.......

My wife and I ordered our Comanche through AMC Overseas Military Cars sales located at the PX in Yongsan Garrison, Republic of Korea (Seoul, South Korea). It was like a mini dealership with display models only, no on hand stock. You had to order and if you were eligible, they would ship the vehicle over for you (which we were). You could also order, and your new car would be waiting for you upon your return to the U.S.

They are long gone.

Highly recommend you replace the seal while you have it off, otherwise you will likely get to remove the new balancer in a few months to do it. Been there.

Look at the clutch pedal itself too. My clutch pedal physically broke about in 1992 after owning it for four years. Look at the square-ish bracket which was originally half welded to the tube the pivot bolt passes through.

Wasn't there a time looters would be shot on sight?