SVPete

I swapped the dash in my 1992 XJ with one from 1995(?) XJ. Differences were as Minuit noted.

Of what I see, some of those items are available on Amazon.

Won't regular, old rubber vacuum hose work as a replacement?

Everything should get some PB blaster, or the like, first these days. Have the bumper bolts on the XJ sprayed right now.

Besides reducing heat, it can reduce UV (if the applied tint has those properties) which will likely lessen the fading of your interior and protect your skin more. It looks good both ways.....

It appears to me that their shipping charges have increased this year.

The cowl drain locations are in the below link. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9741 Also have seen a comment about hood hinge seals, door weatherstripping, and the seal above the triangle window on the door frame.

I assume you had to pull the triangle widow to replace it? If so, take the door panel off and adjust the bottom mounting bolt for the triangle window. Loosen the bolt and push the channel towards the front of the truck and re-tighten the bolt. Obviously, then check window for operation. If you didn't pull the triangle window, still worth checking. I had the same problem the first time I replaced a window regulator.

The physical shape of the rear window regulators precludes their use in the front doors. If you want to try to mod them, sure, give it a shot, but I believe it will be a waste of time. From personal experience, I can vouch that the "snakes" in the rear regulators are exactly the same as the "snakes" in the front regulators for manual window regulators. I have personally repaired my own this way. They are the same left to right also. I do not know if they are the same between manual and power windows. I agree with the comment in the article that the rear windows parts will have less wear. You mention that essentially the "gearing" in your manual regulators is screwed up. It would involve breaking through several spot welds to strip out the "gearing" just to see if it is the same from front to rear (I suspect it is, but have no actual proof of that). So, I think it is technically possible to repair the "gearing". Manual window regulators are out there in junkyards. They are not quite the unicorn. I might even have some extras.

In my town, I have knocked on doors to two houses to speak to owners, stopped at a hotel to ask about the owner (who worked there), and ended up in a conversation with the another customer in Autozone who was the boyfriend of a gal who had a red Comanche (what is it about that color?). He called her and she came by. Point being, simply inquiring and expressing a mutual interest in the truck that both of you possess will go over well.....and easy, especially if yours is there too. Slying over and taking pictures....well, Eagle addressed that.

Hmmm

Just thinking.....wouldn't be surprised if alcohol was involved. Which would harden my stance that diplomats/family members answer for their transgressions. The truth will come out into the light of day eventually.

Needs better clarification. DI needs to be specified to stop rogue regimes from arresting diplomats for B.S.....But....things like the situation you referenced, you should have to answer for.

I put new connectors on. It's no big deal. The speakers came with some wire with the connectors attached. Just soldered them together. Don't think I will ever put a factory speaker back in. Schardein had adapters on sale in the for sale section. They are sold, but it will give you a visual. Still on the first page.

I have had the pleasure of doing this four times. Twice on the Comanche and twice on a Cherokee. Safety first! Chock the truck. Parking on a slight downhill will help reduce transmission fluid spilling. 1. Disconnect the rear driveshaft and remove. 2. Using a long screwdriver, pry out the seal. You may need to use a screwdriver and hammer to try tapping the edge from the backside of the seal to get it started. Recommend you do not try to drive the screwdriver between the seal and extension housing case since the case is aluminum. A seal remover tool exists, I don't have one though. 3. Once out, clean up inside the extension housing case where the seal sits. 4. Install the new seal. It can be tricky to get started on. If you try tinking it on with a hammer around the edges, it will tend to keep popping out on you. You need something that can sit on the majority of the seal that fits around the splined shaft (like a enormous deepwell socket). I have a large adjustable wrench that I can open to fit around the shaft and cover 3/4 of the edge of the seal. Then give the wrench/socket/whatever a good rap which will get the seal initially installed. Obviously, don't hit the splined shaft. Then simply tap around the edges of the seal to completely install it. Of course, they make a real tool to do these kind of things too (don't have it either). 5. Reinstall driveshaft. Make sure to torque the bolts on the u-joint straps to spec. Recommend a drop of loctite on those. 6. Check fluid level on level ground. Fill to bottom of fill hole. It's not that hard, but like anything you haven't done before, it can make you anxious.

We ordered it through overseas military car sales...at the PX (Post Exchange)....believe it or not..... in Yongsan Garrison, Seoul Korea. They actually had one on display. Since my wife and I were both in the military on a joint domicile tour (two years), we were authorized to ship a car (since we weren't up in 2nd Infantry Division). So, really, Uncle Sam shipped it both ways. There was another married Army couple in my unit that also bought a Comanche. Wonder if they still have it?

I installed Boss Chaos speakers in the doors and rear in 2015-2016 replacing the original speakers. $15-$20 per pair from Amazon. Obviously not top-of-the line, but definitely better that 25+ year old speakers. Work well for listening to the radio, using bluetooth phone, or a CD every once in a while. While the audiophiles may cringe at my selection, I'm not engaging in any stereo wars. Besides, our trucks are pretty noisy, so I'm not sure what an expensive set of speakers is going to bring to the table anyway.

Picked it up in Pusan, ROK, in October 1988. Think we actually ordered it in May.

Installed VW lights.

The PO had great taste.

The reference (input) voltage (measuring between A and B) should be approximately 5 volts DC, which comes from the ECU. Pretty sure 10.3 volts DC is not a possible reading unless the ECU is fried weirdly somehow or someone has wired battery voltage direct to the TPS. Might want to check this again. The output voltage (measuring between B and C) should be 17% of your reference (input) voltage, which will be around 0.8 volts DC. So 0.2 or 0.3 volts DC isn't close either. I use paperclips to slide down the back of the connector to ensure I am making contact with the pins when taking my readings. Did you try to adjust the TPS, by loosening the screws and rotating it? Has anyone messed with the idle stop screw (which is a misnomer, but will not cause you to read 10 volts DC)? Attached is the Renix fuel injection manual in case you don't have it. Jeep_Renix_Fuel_Injection_manual.pdf

Aaaahhh. Gooood

I recommend to fix the loose connection on your alternator, even if it involves having to get a replacement alternator. There is no goodness (or positive...to pun it) to what can happen if it comes apart.

TPS number of 0.02? The TPS should be around 0.82 volts....depending upon your input voltage. Recommend you read Cruiser's tip on that again and re-check.

Typically involves disassembling the alternator. It's not thaaat hard, but could be intimidating if you have never done it. To hold the brushes back when re-assembling, depress them and insert a small rod (paper clip or allen wrench) from the back through the holes in the brush holder.