carnuck

That will cause it to shift out of 4x4 when you hit pot holes. Just can't win can you? :doh:

That's correct. Each side moves in 1.5" closer to the pumpkin. Are you going SOA? If so, do one side at a time. Use a welder's chalk to mark the centerline of the current pad before removing it. Set the new pad in place with axle stands or similar and a jack under the pinion to adjust the angle. Set it so the remaining spring pad is level, place the new one and spot weld it level then do the other.

Rad and heater hoses are the difference.

1.5" inboard on each side from the XJ mounts

Look at XJs with 4.0L 5 speed. Same axle, should be correct gears.

Try looking at Dodges for the lines. I'd put a fitting on the rad and rubber hose to the end of the steel lines myself. Motor/trans flex is what causes the rads to crack when the motor mounts let go.

You're thinking of T86A (I think that's the right number) I had one that was 2wd in my Pacer Wagon, a '76 Aspen Wagon (intended to go to Iran before the hostage deal with Jimmy Carter) and my '66 Fairlane (originally from a Granada)

I'm hoping to get to it this weekend. We had a "Wizard of Oz" moment this past week. 75 mph gusts that lifted our car port and turned it into a sail, lifting one side of our home sunday night (right as the end credits for Walking Dead were rolling). Luckily it dropped back into place but our roof and one wall was damaged as well as cold air blowing from the furnace vents with nothing running. It's a Renix MPFI 4 cyl (It's also in Canada) which has 4 separate injectors #53003956 like the 4.0L has. Turned out the TPS was buggered up. A new one for 4.0L and it was rolling again. It has the AW4 behind it.

Neutral safety switch and the auto shifter and passing gear linkage. Too bad there is no hookup to put a 700R4 from an S10 with 2.8L or 3.2? The matchup between the XJ flexplate and 2.5L crank is the question. '87 up 2.8L-3.4L V6s are zero balanced like the 2.5L which are unlike the earlier 2.8 that is externally balanced. I don't know if the flexplate from the V6 would bolt to the 2.5L crank or how you could put the 2.5L tone ring on it to run the EFI. Perhaps the 2.5L Renix flexplate is the correct offset to fit the 700R4 converter with new holes drilled to bolt it up?Too many I don't knows there for me.

I had issues with the feedback line on mine allowing air in every time I did a panic stop till I capped it off.

The brackets went up. Mine were $40 last year.

My son swapped an HO 2.5 with 30K on it into a Renix MPFI '89 MJ. For some reason it backfires when revved and shakes. It ran perfect before the swap but the old motor ran about the same as this one does now. Flywheel and everything external are off the old motor. No manifold leaks. Sensors test within spec. At a loss because of the flu and I'm not there to help.

It may cause rough running but not shutdown AFAIK.

It's about the same strength. The AX5 is the same as the SR5 used in late '70s/early 80s Toyota Corrolla RWDs

They gained clearance with the hub reduction drives.

All that stuff goes through the C101 connector.

Napa part number NOS 35409

The World Class version is actually a Tremec transmission and while you can swap some of the internals into the weaker case (making it weaker still by grinding some space for them) there was no 4x4 output shaft made.

The Comanche auto column is different because it is a cable shift.

Looks like he was trying to pass that off as a high pinion Ford diff which it wasn't. Springs are on top of the tube so it's not a J20 axle. It's Chev or Dodge Pass side drop from the '70s.

The cap is cracked and needs replacing if it's whistling

That is 90mm. Try AC Delco 1520677 or Napa TEM 209756

There is an adjustment

My son sold his '86 MJ 2.5L to a guy with a TJ and everything bolted right on. Didn't even change the head.

When the ignition/fuel box on my '86 Comanche with 2.5L was acting up I drove with the heater on and after 10 minutes it would shut off. Wait 3 -5 minutes and I'd hear a "CLINK" and it would start again. Turned out the defrost hose was off and blowing right against the computer box. It would over heat then cool and run again. Maybe it has a circuit breaker?