91Pioneer

Bornindesert, are you sure that applies to the '88? What I read after a google search shows just a torque value to tighten the nut down to, since there are shims instead of a crush sleeve. I'd like to DIY but if I have to drop $100+ on tools I'll only use once I just might ask a shop what they'd charge to do this job, I'd bet it would be under $200. I was hoping to get away with just torquing the old nut back down to whatever value the book calls for. I see write-ups like this and think "piece of cake, no special tools": http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/xj-front-pinion-seal-replacement-43429/

I can appreciate the work that went into it but the proportions are just too "off" for me, when it comes to the cabin/windows/roof. It looks like it was chopped too, it probably would have looked less goofy if they chopped it less.

There are some bad rockers out there. In fact I think it is C2C they are meant to be mounted right over the rotted factory ones. So they don't fit well and they don't look factory when they're installed either. If you know a guy good with metal you could try using OEM Cherokee rockers and cut them up to work I'm pretty sure.

on eBay, not my auction. Was listed for $250, did not sell, now listed for $200. Linky: http://r.ebay.com/afUm2Q Part #: 8982200678 Description: 1984 -86 NOS AMC JEEP COMANCHE FACTORY RUNNING BOARDS ''VERY RARE'' for 6'&7' box.Complete with all brackets,nuts and bolts,splash guards,molded end caps and instruction sheets etc Might fit other years of Comanches I'am not sure.Need to ship by FEDEX.

I have ordered from them once. Even after paying shipping it was cheaper to buy my harmonic balancer from them vs Partsource. I got the stuff in one week which is not bad considering it's from the US. I would deal with them again, just depending on shipping cost, you really have to watch that being in Canada.

Man a lot of us have been in a similar situation. It seems every time I fix one thing I find something else. Part of that is owning an older vehicle (22+ years old). Folks here are super helpful so hang in there! Buy used parts when possible and appropriate.

As an aside, I've not indexed my distributor, I have no symptoms as far as I know. cruiser, what are the common symptoms of that?

Solid truck.

Does anyone have a pic of the contact points that need greasing? I have no reason to take out my shifter, but I did recently change the BA10 fluid with synthetic. It shifts way smoother (going from one gear to another). Just curious if that greasing is necessary as I don't want to take out the shifter out unless it will really make a difference.

PM sent. I'm interested if it's not cracked, mine is cracked in two places, pretty badly. Same, 88 4.0L.

Need to do that one too. Good thing is it's not affecting driveability.

I've done a bunch of your Renix tips but have not tackled the 6 brown wire grounds yet. Sounds like I need to put that higher on my to-do list :thumbsup:

Wow.

OK. I found out the new NAPA cap does not fit the Dorman reservoir, but it does the OEM one. The Dorman tank has a bit bigger lip so the new cap doesn't even fit at all, I'll have to trim it slightly to get it to work.

I posted a short video of what it's doing:

So I've got a pretty weird situation with my coolant temp gauge. When the truck is started from cold, it reads fine, as it warms up it the gauge moves up normally like it should. But, apparently just before it hits normal full operating temp, it "wiggles" or flickers for a minute or two. It fluctuates between just above the low point on the gauge to about the center mark. After that it works 100% solid again. It fluctuates a bit normally during normal operating conditions, but never moving too far. I can see it drop a bit when the engine is running higher (the water pump is flowing more), etc. So it's the weirdest thing to me. I don't get how it would be unreliable just for a minute or two during a specific stage of warmup, and it does it pretty much every time. Since buying it, I have replaced the block heater and the coolant pressure reservoir. I have also done a full flush using the Prestone super flush and drain, disconnected the heater core, back-flushed it, all that good stuff. I'm a bit stumped on this one. I can't seeing it being an electrical problem since it happens at the same point all the time. The only other thing I can think is that their is an air bubble in the system, but shouldn't it work it's way out and cause other problems like overheating? That was over a month ago that I did that flush so it's had quite a number of startups and runs to full temp. Edit: I realized that I still have that upgraded NAPA (Volvo?) cap to install. I had it on there before I got the new tank, but just used the new Dorman cap that came with the tank. I think I will swap to the tighter fitting cap next and see if that helps.

Ack!

That's a solid truck, happy to see it's being sold complete there...

I gotta see that in action. Try to post a photo or video but drive safe!

Airspeed indicator, wow how fast is your truck :thumbsup:

You'd have to be an idiot to give money for this "cause". The $330 he's been pledged is probably him and his family/friends.

Do not add grease if they are sealed U-joints, they don't have much grease but that is the right amount. Don't think you know better than the guys who make them. I'm referring to Spicer here. Personally I'd take sealed over greasable U-joints any day.

Yep you have a Renix. Do the valve cover mod and put a new hard line on the rear, Dorman makes them.

Common. What year is your truck? If it's a Renix, see tip #25 here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Around here remote start antennas are always stuck behind the rearview mirror right onto the windshield.