91Pioneer

Welcome! You probably need a new window regulator, when I bought my truck I could only get the passenger window a little over half way before it would get stuff and bind up. I actually just replaced the regulator yesterday and it goes down like normal now.

Sweet

I guess since this is my thread, I should post a pic of my timing cover, you can clearly see where the old HB was rubbing on it, creating a really annoying squeal.

The Dorman fits fine, no messing around with the cover. The thing you need to mess with is called an oil slinger, when using an OEM balancer (it's not a spacer). The Dorman one is way cheaper too, I'd recommend it. It's a good idea to change that front crank seal while you're there. Some guys recommend to take the timing cover off to check the chain for slack but I was lazy and didn't do that.

With the exception of the engine parts, the rest of that is pretty common stuff. So what I'm saying is buy the dam* thing already so I can get project updates. It'd be great to see it back on the road!

Is it that guy you PM'd me his username? I'm not going to buy anything until I hear back from eBay, but apparently there's a 3-day waiting period for us to work things out, which we didn't.

Well I'm going to wait the 3 days and report it to eBay and let them decide. Regardless, if I keep them I will need new pintle caps. Cheapest place I've found online is $22 shipped to me but it's for 8 "kits" which include the o-rings and filters. The o-rings and filters look new on these injectors I got, so if I can just source 6 pintle caps on their own for cheap I will just keep these injectors and use them. Since it's international, it would be a pain to file a claim, because I I've got to deal with Canada Post and/or USPS, And maybe they just point the finger at each other. Since I bought it on eBay and paid with PayPal I think one of them will stand behind the issue.

Yeah I noticed you had some input on the 746's. Nope I'm not on that forum, but it is one of the ones I search when looking for Renix/MJ stuff.

Thanks folks I will have to look closer to see if I have that mark, I assume there is only one Dorman balancer to fit the 4.0. Not that I'm having the O/P's problem, so I'll stay out now.

Shipping was $15 and he said he wouldn't refund that. So figure $15 more to send it back and then I'm out the $30 shipping and he's out nothing. Raw deal. Anyway, so that's why I'm wondering if I could safely use them without that plastic end cap thing. It would be cheaper to keep them, at least I'd have something to show for my money. He advertised them as 5 new unused injectors for $25 so I snagged 'em, I figured for that good price I could find the 6th. Anyway, it seems like I should be able to replace the pintle caps. Now I know what they're called, I'll see what I can find out. p.s. Read this thread to see why the 746 is a great choice for Renix engines: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/1990-renix-volvo-bosch-19-280-155-746-injector-swap-163105/

So I bought these 746 injectors from eBay. Loser seller put 'em loose in a padded envelope and they arrived all broken up on the plastic tips. So can I use these or are they junk? The hard plastic pieces that broke off/cracked do not look replaceable. And, for the cost of return shipping it's probably not worth returning them. Dude also said they were brand new, I'm not so sure they were...

What if your brand new harmonic balancer doesn't have a mark on it? I don't remember seeing one on the Dorman one I just installed.

That guy in Canada is your only choice I think. Give him a day or two and try again.

Ah poo I didn't realize that had headrests, my seat doesn't have headrests so there would be holes. Thanks anyway, snakedoc67.

Nice work! The hardest part looks like it is getting the male side of the connector hollowed out. That's the only part I'm a bit unclear on, but only because I haven't looked at it closely. I did clean my C101 recently and it helped my high idle on startup, so I'm definitely going to consider your route before chopping the whole thing out. I like that it looks factory but is improved.

Check out this thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43128-vacuum-line-mess-on-a-1987-renix/

EGR solenoid. I would "put it back" if I was you but I like to keep things nice and stock generally.

My truck has a shroud on the mech fan.

How about a pic now and later when you fix 'er up?

My seat frame is also broken along the top bar behind the driver. For what it's worth I just added a middle lapbelt to my truck, I just added them to the same bolts used for the outside seatbelts.

Hey d, can you post a pic of your twist on the C101 elimination? I cleaned my C101 and am debating on eliminating it. I have the soldering skills but I want my truck to look stock, it sounds like your procedure would be perfect for me :thumbsup:

From the pictures you posted last night, it looks like you have one vacuum line not yet connected at the rear of the air box. Yeah the tar is gross, it must have been some kind of grease from the factory that turned to sludge. p.s. the high idle could be another vacuum leak.

At the very least clean your C101 if you have no soldering skills. I cleaned mine last weekend and it eliminated my random high idle on startup problem.

Factory to my knowledge. Straight from RockAuto: They do, however show one like yours without the extra plastic do-hickey.

Well he's claiming 18,000 km (~12K miles). We don't know if that's true though... Edit: If you think that's bad you haven't seen anything.... click --> http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/lethbridge/1988-jeep-comanche-4x4/591176697