91Pioneer

I don't know if that's normal or not, but as long as oil and coolant aren't mixing you should be fine.

FYI Dorman makes a replacement plastic bottle that has good reviews... And it's cheap $25. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E300OY/

$2K, you can do way better than that, pass!

I like your truck more than mine. 'nuf said.

What's the purpose for relocating the alternator? Keep it dryer?

The instructions are on their site: http://www.napierprecisionproducts.com/media/V2%20Quick%20Install%20Guide.pdf They look like a good product but I don't understand why they'd bother selling the flares without hardware & instructions, wouldn't the savings be minimal? Edit: Holy cow, the regular product with hardware & instructions is $373 on sale right now, "naked" is $294. Wow that doesn't make sense to me but... they look good.

Looks really nice! $4,300. Link: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/victoria-bc/1988-jeep-comanche/579004417?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Details: Year 1988 Make Jeep Model Other Kilometers 280000 Body Type Pickup Truck Transmission Manual Colour Burgundy Drivetrain 4 x 4 Type Used Fuel Type Gasoline 1988 Jeep Comanche with 280,000kms. 4 liter, 5spd, reg cab short box. New clutch and front brakes.

Pricing is heavily dependent on where you live. Around here I'd say that truck is worth anywhere from $1000 - $1500 as-is, the 4WD short boxes are the more desirable version. It looks like a bad rocker repair job, it isn't really all that straight, kind of wavy. With that said, I've seen way worse condition MJ's for sale, that one isn't all bad.

I hit up the junkyard the other day, came back with some goodies. A clock, some grey interior trim pieces, courtesy light (sockets), 97+ Cherokee door weatherstrip, etc. Updates: - the '89 clock I installed is perfect, like new, easily readable during the day. I also put in a new #74 light bulb before installing it though. - I received my $30 replacement radio from eBay, it works wonderfully, lights up, it even had a cassette in it. Bonus here is it has the extra two pins inside so I can connect an AUX input port if I really wanted to. - Added the cigarette lighter light I picked up at the junk yard - installed the amber OEM turn signal lenses I got from eBay: More updates to come...

Wow, the antler shifter is the most redneck thing I think I've seen since I saw a Corvette body on a lifted 4x4 chassis.

Please, leave the religious BS for other more appropriate (non-Comanche) forums.

I got one at the junkyard.

Time for another update. Stuff I've done since last update: - Bought some Teflon lubricating spray from the auto parts store, used it to lubricate the hood release cable and mechanisms - After replacing the ignition lock cylinder I had a no-start condition. Long story short is that I had to adjust the rod that goes from the lock cylinder down to the actual ignition switch to make the key go to the actual "start" position (technically you move the switch which adjusts the rod) - Removed the lens cluster, polished it using plastic lens cleaner, it looks like new! - Ordered and installed new Dorman clutch & brake pedal pads, the old ones were pretty worn a bit - Installed the Dorman harmonic balancer. Had a bit of a screw-up, when taking off the old one I accidentally started pulling off using the tool before removing the washer, whoops. That distorted the washer a bit but I drilled it and put everything back together OK - Replaced the front main crank seal on the timing chain cover while I was there. Boy that was a real b**ch to get out. I put some black RTV in there when installing the new one and it went great (used FelPro seal, but stuck in the deep freeze to make it a tiny bit smaller, good tip for installing seals) - Removed wiper arms, repainted satin (trim) black, re-installed with new wiper blades - Bought wiper bushings to fix my slow wiper problem and replaced them but the real problem was the missing hold-down bolt on the washer motor. Replaced that with a bolt I had laying around, wipers work great now LOL - Continued cleanup of interior, used a Dakota Odor Bomb to eliminate any funky smells, it works really well. Also, used epoxy to try and fix the big crack through the lower dash trim plastic, it worked OK. - Replaced the frayed park brake cable release with the one I bought from a member here. - Discovered exhaust manifold cracked where #5 & #6 cylinders meet the main exhaust header downtube - Ordered the OEM European amber turn signal lenses from eBay Next upcoming things: - New valvecover gasket (good FelPro one) & do cruisers' valve cover mod - Install middle seat belt - Order extra 4 gauge ground cables & continue cleaning wiring connectors/grounds - Try QuickSteel on the exhaust manifold to seal the cracks, even temporarily - Drain and refill trans fluid with Amsoil 75W90 GL-5 synthetic for more time out of the trans - Figure out why the clock no longer illuminates, it was working fine a week ago when I had the dash apart - "Clean up" exterior, remove pinstripe, tacky Pioneer decals, black rub strips - and any unknown mechanical issues that pop up OK that's it for now. As you can see I've been taking care of my new-to-me Comanche :thumbsup:

#1, but as you come around the back for the tailgate, drop it down slightly. Or do #1 as you have it and put on a tailgate cap.

It says right in the ad "wooden box liner", I've seen weirder stuff. oooh it has a cargo lamp... that can't even be used because of the topper...

I just found cracks in my #5 & #6 ports on my '88 manifold the other day so I'm in the market too. Is the EGR port the same size as the O2 bung? Just wondering because I can't weld it myself, if I pay a shop to do that, it might be cheaper to just buy the one made for 87-90 to begin with. There is one exhaust shop in my town and they are crooks. I'm kind of debating about removing the stock manifold, having it welded, then putting in a flex section in the downpipe (should prevent it from happening again). Also, I know, I'd check the motor mount also.

So what do you do with the EGR "bung" then?

With cutout, I didn't even know the other was an option.

Well for chassis, etc. wouldn't any sort of oil help with cleanup? Yeah I'm thinking that NeverWet is exactly what you're looking for. Try it out on a test section, see how it goes, in theory it will work well...

I've been thinking about switching my interior from navy blue to grey. I know I can paint some plastic panels, buy new carpet, etc. I thought I'd just throw this out there to see if anyone has factory grey cloth bench seat covers, for the back and bottom. It's too much to ship a seat, but to remove the covers... that might be worth it... also would possibly be looking for headrests but I want to check on the seat cover first.

Good project there, Dan. I just replaced my harmonic balancer last weekend with the Dorman part, so far so good. I'll be keeping an eye on this build!

Not my auction, if you want a pair of the olympic rings OEM decals, grab 'em: http://r.ebay.com/1mnCsn $29 for two same decals, part number 55021400. Would be nice to have someone buy these to get them duplicated also...

My exhaust is relatively new from the joint at the manifold all the way back to the tip at the bumper... I think no matter what I do, I'm going to put a section of flex tube in the exhaust, that ought to decrease the tendency to crack. Unlike Rob Ford I say no to crack! :laughin:

I went back and looked over the manifold again, and noticed more cracking, so both collectors from the #5 and #6 cylinder are cracked. I was looking on eBay and it looks like I can go one of: - Omix-Ada - Dorman - Crown; and - Mopar OEM Now to research each and compare pricing :thumbsup:

Aw crud. I have one of those snake inspection camera things and I snaked it down and looked along the exhaust manifold, especially where there are welds. And, it appears there is a big long crack around one of the tubes. DOH. So is it pretty easy to get a welder dude to weld it up or should I just buy a replacement manifold? I'm not concerned about cost. I'm thinking I should just buy new and be done with it. And, if I'm buying new, which is the best manifold to buy for the Renix?