91Pioneer

Heeeeeyyyy... 'twas searching Amazon some more. I might be able to save some cash (~$100) and buy this instead: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSGIJR4/ Hmmmmm.....

This really doesn't matter but I think this was the post that got me confused about this situation: hornbrod: thread @ http://comancheclub.com/topic/30118-d35-leak-how-serious-is-this-help/?p=306266 I was under the impression pre-90's did not have crush sleeves. And, I could just torque the nut to whatever ft-lbs and call it a day. Even the real parts lookup sites show a crush sleeve such as this one: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=701874&ukey_make=1064&ukey_model=15526&modelYear=1988&ukey_category=20306&ukey_driveLine=7395 I already know I've passed the "you're overthinking this" stage. I just haven't ordered the seal yet (I'm not really in a big rush, I don't go on the highway much) and this was bugging me in the back of my head, so I was digging around to see where I got the idea of just torquing the nut down, no need for measurements. Anywho, I'm not trying to pick on hornbrod, I will get my hands on that seal and take a stab at it. Although I have been toying with the idea of buying this so I have another tool :thumbsup: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1WPFE/

I know what you meant, that's why I said I didn't replace any parts first.

LOL I know, I'm still tackling the list. Slow and steady wins the race. At least I didn't replace anything first, I just happened to be taking things apart in the area :-) I picked up an exhaust manifold today (used OEM) to replace my cracked one so having more things apart will give me another good opportunity to check wiring/connectors/grounds/etc.

I swapped out my valve cover gasket with the top notch Fel-Pro PermaDry one (it's awesome by the way), and discovered in the process I guess the temp sender at the very back of the block by the VC, the wire came off. And I looked at the connector and it was too big/loose. I crimped it down tight and reinstalled it, cleaned up the threads with brake cleaner, and so far the weirdness has not come back. So all along it may have just been a loose connector on the sender. I'm not sure if I made the connector loose when I bumped it when removing the VC or if it was loose before. Anywho, thought I'd post an update in case someone else has the same problem in the future.

The quadratec ones are aftermarket (Crown), not OEM. They're probably fine though. For what it's worth I paid $60+shipping new for the OEM Mopar ones on eBay (seller took my offer which was lower than the asking price).

Good ol' French engineering, isn't that why? LOL

Hmmmm interesting idea. Does it change how the shifter rotates up as you pull it back? My linkage is sticky sometimes going out of 2WD, just debating if this is right for me... Looking forward to the pics and feedback on this mod!!

That is the correct, original steering wheel.

I'm not sure you could fit a newer pair on there, but the part numbers are Mopar 56000852 and 56000853.

You want a set of these: I got them on eBay. I don't see a set listed right now, but keep your eyes peeled. I'm not positive, but if you could find some lens spray in amber color you might be able to DIY, as far as I know you'd be the first to try that route. I believe Crown also makes aftermarket versions of the European lenses. Here are the OEM Mopar lenses on my truck. I think they look extra good on trucks with chrome front end parts but hey I might be bias LOL:

That is all kinds of amazing. It's nice to see restored unmolested trucks! Wow! I also like the originality of the BA10 & closed cooling system. Just goes to show if you take care of your truck it will last. How many miles are on that bad boy?

If you fill it full it will puke coolant out the cap. Ask me how I know LOL I've never filled it full but I did overfill it slightly one time and it let me know by leaking out. You absolutely need to not overfill because liquids don't compress like air does :thumbsup:

Fortunately my truck is not my daily driver so I can almost always wait a week to get a part. I saved good cash too by buying my harmonic balancer from RockAuto. Normally I can get anything from the US in a week and it's less money, sometimes like 1/2 price.

It's two different sizes on the end, check RockAuto for the sizing.

Overpriced? I paid $55 just 'cause everything is more money in Canada. Retail at the local auto parts store was $68 so I bought online to save cash. That's a whole other topic though...

OK time for another update y'all. Since my last update I did change the trans fluid. I got my hands on the 8mm square socket and soaked down the fill plug the night before with a quality penetrating lube. Surprisingly it came out well, the whole process worked well except for the refill pump. I bought a cheapo hand pump that broke by the first half-quart when refilling so I had to go out a buy a much higher quality metal suction gun that really got the job done right. Bonus, now I have a good suction gun for doing the transfer case & diff fluid changes also. Judging by the condition of the fill plug, someone tried removing it using a chisel since they didn't have the right tool. It was gouged up pretty good and the square was deformed a bit. The fluid that came out was black as tar, it was WAAAAAAAY overdue for a change. At least the fluid level did not seem low at all. Anywho, I got the new synthetic fluid in there and it shifts A LOT more smoothly. Definitely worth the time and money, I probably extended the life of my BA10 :-) I also removed & cleaned the IAT sensor using brake cleaner I think it was. I sprayed some Caig Deoxit on the electrical connectors under the hood. I applied some "Inferno metal patch" to the crack in the exhaust manifold, it helped a little bit. I added 4 gauge ground wires (battery & head to firewall). I put dome dielectric grease on the distributor cap contacts and plug wire contacts. I sprayed the CPS with brake cleaner, it was pretty gunky down there. I bought and installed a new Dorman 603-300 coolant pressure bottle since mine was leaking worse and worse. Funny how you fix one coolant leak and then the next weak thing starts leaking. I'm waiting for the water pump to start leaking now LOL. I cleaned the ICM/coil contacts. I installed a new Dorman passenger side outside door handle (I absolutely could not stand the grand cherokee handle that was on there!). I replaced the passenger window regulator. That's a fun job, actually not hard, just a bit tricky getting it out and in. The shop that did the full provincial inspection on the Jeep last December paid to replace the two broken rear leaf springs out of the pack as they missed that in their inspection. I added about 1/4 can of Seafoam to the crankcase to help clean up the internals of the engine prior to removing the valve cover for the mod & new gasket. I also bought & installed a passenger side 97+ Cherokee outside mirror since the 84-96 ones are so hard to find and I desperately wanted a mirror there. Then, today I bought & installed a non-broken driver side corner lamp & chrome headlight trim. That's it for now. I think my progress will slow down a bit now. I discovered that while driving on the highway, it causes a pretty good leak out the rear diff pinion seal, so that's moved up on my to-do list now. Honestly I'm enjoying all this "tinkering". My daily driver is a 2013 so it doesn't need a thing, that's so boring!

I have one now, but I also have my eye on a red 91 here in town too. I would have to sell another vehicle before buying another or I'd really get in hell from the significant other.

$22 for the Dorman one from Amazon, this is the one I bought -- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E300OY/

I wonder if this could work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/55005304-NOS-Mopar-OEM-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-84-96-Inside-Rear-Door-Felt-Strip-Belt-/200927766079?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec83a663f&vxp=mtr 55005304 NOS OEM Mopar Rear LH or RH Jeep Cherokee XJ /Wagoneer XJ 84-96 (may fit 97-01 rear door as well) Inside Rear Felt Window Wipe /belt Strip

What is involved in swapping a 91-96 Cherokee grille onto my '88? I know I need the grille plus both headlight trim pieces. Not sure on the header panel. Does it need to be swapped too or can it just be modified to work? Thx.

No.

I tried doing some searching again on Google to see if I could find that reference I found like a month ago that talked about the two different Dana 35's. I could not find the exact source I had before, but I did find talk of a 1990+ Dana 35c versus a Dana 35 from 1989-older. What's the diff (pun intended)? My understanding was for the D35's older than '90 they did not have the crush sleeve but sources here seem to say otherwise. Man I wish I bookmarked that link. It's really more of a curiosity thing now. 13 Legion, to be honest I've seen YouTube videos showing just that, and countless forum posts all over the 'net saying that's good enough. Either tightening that nut down to the same spot (mark it before removing) or going just a hair tighter for good measure. I even saw one post that was a Ford tech saying Ford's warranty jobs for the seals do not even call for replacing the crush sleeve, just tightening back down to the same spot. Given how many folks online have done it the way you did I really don't think it would do any harm. If it did, the forums would also point that out!

While I agree there is no such thing as "free money" especially when it comes to banks, the reality is that cost is being paid by all customers of that bank, whether you use the perk or not. So in this case, no big deal IMHO. My Visa credit card has no annual fee, but pays a 1% dividend on all purchases made throughout the year. So they actually pay me the more I use it the more I get paid. I realize the 1% is coming from the merchant fees, but again, that's factored into the cost of goods/services sold, so no big deal. The folks paying cash are actually better for merchants because there are no fees associated with that transaction. If the merchants don't like it, they don't accept Visa (like Costco for example). I've switched to using my Visa to pay for 99% of everything every day. I pay the entire balance every month instead of using my debit card and make cash back for doing so. It's also kind of "free money" which of course we know doesn't come out of thin air.

Yes I'm needing to replace my rear pinion seal and I know that writeup is for a front. What I've read is the front (Dana30) does not use a crush sleeve and the rear (Dana 35) also does not use a crush sleeve until 1990, therefore the sleeveless pinion seal replacement instructions should be the same. Has someone on this forum disassembled a 87/88/89 rear diff and can confirm no crush sleeve?