91Pioneer

Thanks. Cheapest OEM I found was $118, whereas cheapest Dana I found was $51, that's per side, plus shipping & tax. Quite a difference, does anyone know if Dana/Spicer makes the OEM ones? Kinda leaning towards getting them...

For a 1991 2WD Comanche, are the 2WD & 4WD upper and lower ball joints the same? I'm looking for 2WD part numbers. Looking online it looks like Moog is the best brand, and the following part numbers: Upper: K3134 or K3134T (not sure on the difference between the two?) Lower: K3136T I don't know what the deal is with the T on the end of the part number for the uppers, weird. The local auto parts store carries "Certified" brand with the same part # of K3134T for a few bucks less so I'm wondering if it's re-branded, I'm gonna say "yes". I also found Dana kit (upper & lower together) 706944X.

Holy F that's bad, why did you buy it? The only thing not rusted are the glass and plastic pieces. I bet the floor boards are non-existent too. WOW!

Texting you now.

I found their listing on www.car-part.com and so I e-mailed them about some parts, they never got back to me. And the next time I was passing through I just didn't have time to stop. Take some pics of what they've got and post up. I may be picking up a 91 Pioneer in the next few days so I may be looking for a few things. Offhand would be a grey seat cover (straight across front on it) and maybe a passenger side tail light (all red). And cab corners/rockers but they're probably all rusty... also maybe a black tailgate handle if in like mint shape. p.s. Wanna buy my '88?

I did a search and there was a TSB saying you could use ATF+4 in Chrysler transmissions in the MJ, but the AW4 is not Chrys. Then later, they revised the TSB and removed Comanches from that TSB completely. So Mercon III Dexron is what you're supposed to use. I texted the current owner, he added a quart and a half and he said it now shifts like new. So good news, looks like the immediate trans problem is solved. If I buy it I'd still drain/fill the trans a time or two.

He wasn't sure but was thinking $1K-ish. It also needs 4 tires and a battery. What kind of fluid would a 91 automatic 2WD take? p.s. I checked the trouble codes and they were 12 & 55, so good to go there.

I took a look at the Jeep today. Overall it's a pretty solid truck. The big thing of course was the slipping trans. It slips at takeoff, but it runs fine through the gears. I warmed it up (drove it), checked the fluid when it was parked on a level surface.... and the fluid didn't even show up on the dipstick. The owner is a friend so he said he'd add some fluid in there anyway, but I said that could be all it is. Since it runs fine other than off-the-line I'm thinking the trans issue is minor. Also, the trans output seal is leaking all over so I know where the fluid went LOL The owner is not mechanical at all. That showed also by the almost plugged up air filter, black as tar oil, and empty coolant overflow bottle. Truck needs a good dose of TLC! Oh and I need to decide soon because he has the name/phone number of 1 or 2 other people who have knocked on his door to ask about the truck. There is no sign in it but he lives across the street from a high school. Since he's a family friend he called me first ;-) A few other minor observations: - Left signal does not work (comes on solid, does not blink or turn off) - Needs oil change badly - Starts faster and runs quieter than my '88 - Floor board rust not as bad as I expected, may not need full replacement panels. One side probably won't need any welding, just cleanup, other side may need smaller patch panel. Of course you don't know until you really tear into it. - Trans power switch does not light up, seems to rock both ways, did not test to see the difference - Shift position indicator out of alignment, shifter rubber handle part falling off - Headliner sagging on two ends a bi - No trans leak but engine is leaking from oil cap and valve cover. I think RMS is OK as bottom end isn't overly greasy - Needs tires - Needs seat re-upholstered. - Brake proportioning valve danging (no rod) - Heater/AC fan only works on high - Fluid seepage on rear diff (not dripping, not leaking) pinion seal OK - Will need passenger side rocker, both cab corners (probably drivers rocker too) otherwise just a few small rust patches on the box that all seem repairable (DIY) He gave me 'til Friday to say whether I'll take it or not. I'm going to think about it for a day or so here and decide.

If the strap bolts were loose, then the tab might not be broken off. I replaced my pinion yolk just a few days ago, so if you have any questions just ask. This is the pinion yoke I bought (it fits Dana 35), it worked great and it's cheap: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FQ7UIO/ (see my review there LOL)

I pulled my connection today, the two 3/16" O-rings are different colors. Makes me wonder if a previous owner changed out one of them in the past. They're the same size (and yes I saw the spacer). Weird. Off to the parts store I go... Edit/Update: I replaced the rings with Viton O-rings and the leak stopped. HELP! package of miscellaneous rings.

Oh the horror!

Thanks. Here are two recent work pics:

Time for another update. I haven't done a whole lot since my last update as I've been busy but, I did manage to replace the rear pinion seal. In doing that I discovered my pinion yoke was beyond repair, so I also put in a new pinion yoke (Omix-Ada one). I took the brake drums off and discovered that a cable inside the drum (for the park brake maybe??) was out of place, it had slipped out of the metal guide. So I put it back in place. I discovered one of the vacuum lines for the CAD was disconnected, so I cleaned up the CAD really well (it was covered in oil & dirt) and re-connected that, it was the green line. I installed an adjustable eye bolt thingy to the rear brake load valve thing, so it should be operating normally now. I guess the rear springs have sagged over the years which caused the arm to be up higher than it should be (level when truck is unloaded). The brakes do feel a little better now. I put fresh Amsoil 75W90 GL-5 full synthetic lube in the rear diff. Man the old fluid was nasty black, probably original stuff. While I was there, I also cleaned up and sprayed the rear springs & diff/axle with Rustoleum semi-gloss black paint. It's lookin' real nice now. And today I discovered a very minor gas leak on the rear fuel rail connection. Seems to be old o-rings, I'll be replacing those ASAP. And in other news I'm going to look at a 91 Comanche for sale on Tuesday. Long story short is if I buy the other one, this '88 silver one will be for sale on Wednesday :-)

Yeah maybe. I imagine the O-rings are 26 years old now! I found another thread mentioning the replacement o-rings plus plastic clip as a kit, so I'm gonna buy one tomorrow and replace it. Also in another thread, the guy said to soak the new rings in gas to let them soften up which makes them easier to install. So Eagle, you just might be right my friend...! Edit: I went out for another longer-ish drive, maybe 5-6 miles, when I got back there was a little bit of gas that seeped out but there was no dripping, the leak is nearly gone. I'm feeling pretty confident now that replacement O-rings are all I need.

OK this is the weirdest thing. I cleaned off the area using brake cleaner and a shop towel. Then I turned the key on, no leaks, started the engine, no leaks. Took it for a short 2 mile drive, no leaks. WTF, how could it go from leaking to not leaking by just wiping it off? Now I'm beginning to wonder if the O-rings are the culprit and by cleaning it I moved the connection just slightly so it sealed.... so weird! I'm going to keep a close eye on it obviously, and probably put in new O-rings anyway.

Well I got my truck's pinion seal & yoke replaced, pulled the truck out of the garage to take it for a road test. I popped the hood just to look things over before my drive and discovered a gas leak. I have not driven the truck in about 2 weeks so I have no idea how long it's been leaking but I must fix it. Look at the following video, it *appears* to be leaking from the crimped part of the fuel return line that connects to the rail. Where can I get a replacement line and how long is that part? I haven't put it back up on stands to look at it yet. Is replacing the whole line my only option do you think? I'm kinda thinking of replacing the O-rings first just in case they are leaking and the gas is running down and dripping over there... <video removed> I found a diagram and it looks like the line goes from the rail all the way back to the tank. That would be a pain in the butt if true: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/images/parts/Chrysler/fullsize/000018Z9.jpg Here's a photo of the area I just took it, the truck has been sitting a bit so the fuel has evaporated some: <photo removed>

FYI for anyone searching in the future. The Omix-Ada 16580.20 pinion yoke that says it only fits Wranglers fit my truck perfectly. They should really update their "fitment" listing to include XJ & MJ. Also, pics! Before: After:

When I looked a little closer I realized that the rust on the box is very comparable to the rust on my truck box. My truck has some rust bubbling over the wheel wells (flares) whereas the 91 does not. So the only rust difference is the cab, my 88 has good cab corners and rockers, whereas the cab corners would need to be replaced on the 91 if I bought it (maybe/probably the rockers too). The rust on the box I would all be able to fix myself though. I will have to wait and see about the trans, I'm going over on Tuesday afternoon to drive it and look it over more closely. Yeah I'm trying not to get overly excited, I'm trying to think about things carefully before I get there and check it out and then get all hooked on it LOL.

I don't like the chrome rocker trim but it looks real sweet otherwise! Even has the OEM rear bumper not all twisted up :thumbsup:

The "pros" in my mind of this 91 are: - obd-i can flash trouble codes - I like the red/grey combo better - air conditioning - bed liner (bed could be in nice shape underneath) - 91s are a little more rare - hardly ever see HO Comanches here, the other 2 I know of in town are both 87/88's. - original paint/decals means it's likely never been in a major accident I read somewhere that you can unplug the TCU and then manually shift the trans to help narrow down if the trans issue is mechanical or electrical. I realistically don't think I could try that during a test drive... I'm thinking if it is an electrical issue it should be a lot cheaper fix...? I had not thought of that, I could install a 4WD transmission and transfer case and not swap out the axle. I already have a newer 4x4 and I do not go off-roading at all.

Any more thoughts on the trans that is slipping? Honestly if I buy it I'd probably leave it 2WD, can't say for sure yet. Is it easy to convert a 4WD trans (easy to find) into a 2WD one? I find lots of XJ Cherokees in the junkyard so I think the trans will be easy enough to find, but they're all 4WD. Being a 91 2WD would the trans be an AW4?

Have not talked price yet.

155.

OK well I'll spare you all the details but long story short is a family members' friend owns this truck. I told him earlier this year to call me if he ever wants to sell it. Then a few months later I found my current 88. He contacted me today to say he's now looking to sell his 91 so I'm going to go look at it and give him my thoughts, I probably won't buy it but it's not out of the question. Here's what I know: 1991 Pioneer, 2WD 4.0L I-6 Column shift automatic Has air/tilt/cruise - unknown if it works at this point Factory sliding rear window Plastic box liner (not sure if OEM) 254,000 km (~158,000 miles) Every body panel has either rust or multiple small dents, *every* panel. Driver side cab corner shot, not sure about pass side he told me today that the tranny has started slipping recently The seat is covered so I don't know if that means the original is ripped or just protected. I already know to check the floorboards. There are some rust spots on the body so I'm anticipating rust on the floorboards, if not some small holes. He is not a car guy so I think maintenance has been little to none in the years that he's had it. I think he's had the truck for 5-10 years or so. The same family member who knows him also knows the original owner from way back in the day. But I think there was another owner or two in between them, not sure, it really doesn't matter. OK I guess I'm really just interested in hearing other people's thoughts, both about the transmission slipping issue, and any other general issues. I'm pretty familiar now with the Renix truck, not so much with the HO. I was thinking that the trans slipping issue could be that he bumped the power/comfort switch to the comfort position, but I have to go in assuming it's worse than that. I will check the switch position though. I really don't think it was maintained well so I'm going in kind of assuming that it's a mechanical problem. If I was to buy this one, I would definitely sell my '88. The body on my 88 is overall in better shape but I prefer the color combo of the red one. My Comanche is not a daily driver, it's just a fun project vehicle. Now for pics (the first pic is from last year, the rest are from this past winter): [/url]

That turned out really nice!