91Pioneer

Did you bleed the rears properly (twice)? There are two rear lines and you need to simulate a front brake failure as part of the procedure and do a second bleed. The MJ brake procedure is not exactly like regular vehicles.

You can already buy Pioneer, SporTruck, and Eliminator decals, it sure would be nice if a shop would reproduce these too...

Could be part of the problem but I doubt it's the root cause here. Is the fluid level OK? Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installation?

There are a few tests you can do, my booster is broken but my pedal goes down the normal amount (I have a hard pedal). With the truck off, press the brake pedal a few times, then with your foot on the brake, start the engine and see if the pedal drops. Second, with the engine off after running it to build vacuum, disconnect the hose going to the brake booster, you should hear the vacuum. There are other things you can try, google brake booster diagnosis. It sounds to me like the booster is faulty but I'm not a mechanic.

Hey gogmorgo (or others) do you have a pic of the relays mounted under the hood? I clipped off some headlight socket plugs last time I was at the junkyard (free), I figured OEM plugs are better than almost any aftermarket stuff. And I already have regular relays, some wire, and every crimp connector I need and then some. So it's basically a free upgrade and won't be screaming yellow when done LOL. Oddly enough I actually enjoy wiring (not necessarily finding faults in wires though) :)

Dayum that's sweet, how did you get that brand new in the box?

It works it just needs adjustment.

My indicator is out of whack a bit and I'd like to fix it. I did a quick look but could not see what you're talking about. Does anyone have a pic of the clip? Do I need to remove the full-length lower dash trim piece to see this?

That is actually more dangerous, not safer. The @$$ end could lock up causing you to lose control in a hurry (think: sideways). I don't know where you live but be careful on dirt and slippery roads.

That is a super nice truck. Only one thing I'd suggest to improve it is to add some kind of OEM decal on the side, SporTruck or something would just be the icing on the cake.

You don't need to replace the valve cover. Cut down the tubes on the underside and put on a new gasket, preferably the permadry one.

Here ya go... http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=d31_141651113

You could try calling a local windshield installer to see, I can't see why they couldn't get other glass. Not sure about the rear MJ window specifically. Other idea http://www.car-part.com is decent for finding stuff locally from junkyards.

XJ Lund visor, new never installed. Not mine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/151483927180

Not too much exciting to say but I'll post an update anyway. Since the last update I've: - Replaced the wiper bushings with Dorman 49447 and replaced the wiper blades - Installed new Champion distributor cap & rotor, old ones were crusty where the spark was arcing, this was definitely needed - Bought new rubber floor mats, it previously had "mini" rear seat small ones, now has full length protection - Replaced the sway bar end links & frame bushings with Moog K3170 & Moog K3174 - this actually made quite a difference in road handling, the front end feels tighter and no longer squeaks. As an aside, I found a lot of conflicting info about lubing bushings. Some people say don't lube them, others say to use lithium grease, others say something else. The Moog bushings are thermoplastic and so I used a synthetic brake caliper slide pin grease that I had, it said it was safe to use on rubber & plastic.

I've found it really depends on the part and which warehouse it comes out of that affects shipping. I priced out a rad on there today, shipping was $21, but it said it ships from Canada. I picked a different rad (didn't say where it was shipping from) and shipping for it was $61. I also buy auto parts locally, from eBay, and Amazon. Once you have the part number of what you're looking for it takes less than 5 minutes to price shop online and a few minutes more to call locally.

I'm all for you going with AWD but going full-time 4WD (Cherokee parts swap) is a lot different than being able to go drifting.

If you're going to buy the parts online anyway, save some money and buy from Amazon :thumbsup: - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P29X4G/ $25.08 for the harness, and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002M9QRE/ almost $2 less each for the housings. And free shipping :)

It's probably going to be a whole lot easier to just buy whatever vehicle Ken Block was driving.

If you do nothing, then expect rust. If you clean the undercarriage and coat it with something like Fluid Film it will work wonders: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B93ZXGS/ There are other products I've used with good experience but I don't think you can buy Krown KL-73 or T40 in the US, it also works great. Coat anything that's metal on the underside. Spray inside the "frame rails". Really get into nooks and crannies. This is the #1 thing you can do to prevent rust. Don't be afraid to drill a small hole inside your door jamb to spray inside the door and the inside of the cab corner. Spray fluid film up through the drain holes in the rocker, spray the bejesus out of it, literally get fluid film in there to as many places as possible. Then in the winter, do try to wash it and keep the salt and dirt off the underside. Keep the can of FF handy for touchups if you see it washing off after a while, it's easy to touch-up. Oh, one more thing. Undercoating is not rust protection, think of it more as a sound deadening product than rust preventive.

My 88 wouldn't turn over, problem turned out to be the ignition switch was out of alignment. It would start like one every 5 tries but it was random.

You can buy the Mopar one but the Dorman one is better IMHO, see http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E300OY/ One of the reviews (not mine): "The OEM tank has been a pain for as long as I've owned this Cherokee. I think I've replaced it four times prior to this one. So far, no splits, cracks or leaks. It's nice to find third party parts that are as good or better than OEM." If I was you, I'd replace the parts rather than do the open swap. A properly functioning closed system is just fine, I never had a problem other than the leaking bottle on my 88. The replacement bottle is $22.53 on Amazon, cheap. Also, Stant 10244 cap is an upgrade http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7YQ2O/

That's nice, keep it close to original IMHO. If you want to modify it a bunch, let's trade trucks.

The most important thing is to buy good quality parts, stay away from Auto Zone & the like. Go for either OEM or Spicer. These are the ones I got (a decent price too I might add), one kit per side: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6OHI0/

PFCLeist, you have a dealer sales brochure, different animal. The sales brochures were given away like candy. The accessory brochures are much more rare.