91Pioneer

Nice progress! Want to fix my rockers & cab corners? LOL

I'll have to take a closer look at my 91 bumper tomorrow, I thought I had a pic on my phone but I don't. It could be slightly different from the 88 bumper. The weird thing is how perfect that dip down is on the reinforcement part, it matches the bumper perfectly.

I need to research this more. As for the lines I could just use copper-nickel lines, they're easy to work with. My understanding is that 95/96 bolts right into my 91, no hole/grinding necessary.

Cruiser, would I have to enlarge the hole and flatten the end if I use 99-04 WJ version? And what's the difference?

My 88 was sold out of BC, my 91 out of SK.

OK my 91 also has this bracing. Maybe it's a bumper for Canadian trucks for crash test ratings or something. It can't be coincidence that both MJ's I've owned have that same beefed-up backside LOL

My rear sensing valve works great so I'd like to keep it.

I've owned both and if I had to pick, I'd pick HO just for the reliability aspect. My stock HO seems to idle smoother and start better than the Renix. Either one gets the job done though :)

Can't you just deflate the front tires a smidge to make the straps fit better? :)

Not what I was hoping but OK. I've been keeping my eye out for a 95/96 XJ booster because I want it to bolt in with as little work as possible.

There are better fitting ones than those. http://www.fixmyrust.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=2704221L Just look at the difference:

OK I think my original brake booster needs replacement, so I'm researching the 95/96 booster swap. My pedal is harder than it should be, feels like it really doesn't have any power assist and once in a while it does have assist. The outside is rusty and it obviously leaked at some point in the past. I have done some diagnosis and figured more than likely the problem is with the booster. Here's my question. Is it possible to swap in just the 95/96 booster but keep my existing 91 master cylinder? I don't want to replace the master cylinder unless I really have to, I plan on picking up a used 95/96 booster since it fits with the least modification. I understand even just swapping the booster may require me to bend my lines a bit to fit better.

I was thinking that since it's been sitting in long grass for so long it's now a Flintstones truck. Really decent project truck right there, I like it. I want the rear bumper off of it.

RE 4.5" coils, $70 @ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GJKBGC/

Pretty solid truck but I'd say the floor boards are probably gone LOL.

I've ordered from Eddie a few times (eBay), good seller. He has tons of stuff.

He said "NOT MINE"

Wow I'd like to own that Waggy but I have no use for a plow :)

Nice! The emblem is just a generic stick-on unit, ignore it. Personally the first thing I'd do if that was my truck is remove them :)

Yes but faked a brake failure for the second bleeding by opening a front brake line and forcing the brake thingy valve to a different spot. Just bleeding twice isn't good enough,

Hmmmm well OK if they are different sizes then they should only fit one way. You're right though about the rad being wrong now that I look at it. Interestingly part #2 is different from my 91 with the valve to the 97-01 hoses. I'm pretty sure the hoses will fit in the little plastic holder though.

Hey hornbrod, I realize I'm bumping this thread a bit LOL... however I was researching this and plan on buying the same hoses that you have. 99% of the time I'm a "keep it stock, OEM" type of guy but in this case I know the stock valve is probably more bad than good (stale coolant, restriction, complicated, etc.). What brand of hoses did you put in? Looking online it seems choices are OEM, Gates, Goodyear and Dayco. I'll probably just go with whoever is cheapest. I wanted to point out FYI that you have your hoses switched compared to the 97 XJ factory service manual. Granted it's not a big deal, but if something flows top to bottom you have more chance of air being caught in there compared to flowing from bottom up. Although the diagram could be wrong I suppose... FSM diagram:

It's fine to drive in winter but you *must* properly rust proof it first. That involves spraying Krown T-40 or Fluid Film or similar into every speck of metal panels that you don't want rust on. Drill holes, get inside the rockers, get behind the cab corners, do inside the doors, inside "frame" rails, all suspension underneath, top of gas tank, back side of front fenders, back side of bumpers, rear wheel arches, etc. If you soak it good with a proper rustproofing product, enjoy. If you can't, well try to park it for winter ;)

If you have the urge to mod it, STOP and sell it to someone that will preserve it.