91Pioneer

Thanks Jeepman, CrossCanadaParts has them listed for $117.20 with stock in Winnipeg. When I get closer to the time of needing them, I will talk to a local body shop to see if they can do any better on pricing (and I might not have to pay separate shipping if they order with other stuff, who knows). Did you install them or did you have a body shop do the work?

Bump for rust-free cab corners.

Jeepman, do you remember the brand that you used or where you got them? Those fit like OEM, I'm impressed! Obviously cut down but wow those would definitely work. They're obviously not C2C brand, those are crappy ones.

Doors at the local PnP here are $45 ea. Glass is listed at $30 so I'm guessing they'd charge $75 for a complete door without interior panel. (door panel is $15 more).

OMFG this truck build is beyond SICK. Wow, it is so amazing, it would be great to have some more recent pics. Did you get this all fixed up 87Warrior?

Did you ever try this?

Wow, this is what my truck wishes it was. What a mint 91 Pioneer red short box 4x4. OK asking price is $8K which some of you will find high but c'mon you rarely seem them in this minty original condition. This is kind of what I'm working toward on my almost-identical truck. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191455686411

I'm interested. Is it still in good shape? Can you post a pic? On the same page that gave me the part # it said a guy used a heat gun to heat it up and slide the gear off, and then press it onto the other length shaft, so I'm willing to give it a try. PM me a price and we'll talk.

hornbrod, oh by "speedo out" I meant the reading is off because of tire size. It was inaccurate when I bought it, then I put a non-stock tire size on. It's out by 10% otherwise I really wouldn't care. It's reading 10% too fast so I'd like to get it down close to where it should be. I should have said "speedo off", whoops. Rockfrog, thanks let me know. The local junkyard is 40 miles away so I don't hit it up very often and they have a lot of GM & imports, not too many Jeeps. I've read that you can remove the gear from the shaft, so a 36 short can work if I can get my gear and the other gear off the different length shafts.

My speedo is out. It looks like a long shaft 36 tooth gear is what I need. gojeep.willyshotrod.com says I need a # 52068158. I know you can buy them new but I always prefer to buy from members here if possible. I'd be OK with a used one. I believe it looks like this:

I'm sure CLR would work, but since it's not designed for that, I decided to get the Prestone stuff that I know will work too. I used it on my 88 MJ. CLR could be to acidic, I have no idea.

Nice 92, reminds me of mine but without the decals.

Nice!

I'm guessing the drain plug is the 8mm square like I had to use on my BA10?? It doesn't matter I won't be doing that. OK well I bought coolant from crappy tire today, it was on sale today 25% off. I also bought prestone flush. I decided to make it easy I will just drain, flush/clean the whole system, drain, then take it all apart, flush the heater core separately and won't worry about the engine specifically. A little extra water in there, no big deal, I'll adjust the ratio 60/40 probably. I have an air hose attachment so I will blast the heater core with a small bit of air to help clear out any leftover fluid in it (I know, too much pressure can cause a leak). The bottle says 50/50 is good down to -37 C. Well it got down to -34 here last February and really anything down to -40 is possible. So I think I'll do 60/40 which is good down to -50 C. My rad arrived today, the Spectra CU1193. It's a beauty, looks good and with free shipping from Amazon it was a great deal. I would guess shipping on that thing would be $30+. The hoses should be here next week so maybe I'll spend Xmas day working on the Jeep ha ha.

Oh that heater core is gonna be so flushed it will make a toilet jealous.

You know that saying "what goes up must come down". Well same thing but reversed for gas prices. Enjoy it, it won't last as OPEC is your puppet master. I buy gas no matter what the price so I'll take this temporary cheap gas... and I might b*@$£ once gas prices take a big spike too LOL

Ha ha. I don't know where you by OEM t-stats from, but try $30-ish, not $10. Vinegar is like the best cleaner for damn near everything. Cleaning windows, anything around the house, etc. It's really awesome, too bad it smells worse than butt. OK maybe not that bad LOL

If you can afford, I recommend everyone buy a UView Airlift, I have one it is amazing, eliminates any chance of air pockets in any cooling system. I think you can also use it to pull vacuum on steering systems, etc.

OK kind of a different question here but here goes... the coolant in my truck is easily 9+ years old (previous owner did nothing for maintenance), it's brown, it's low, it's chunky, it's nasty. The rad has a minor leak. So I've got all new heater & rad hoses, and a new rad on their way to me. I'm obviously replacing those plus the coolant. My plan is to manually flush the heater core using the garden hose, flushing it out good both ways. When I put it back together I am bypassing the heater control valve and using 97-01 Cherokee heater hoses. So the only thing left without a proper flush is the inside of the engine where the coolant resides. I'm just wondering is there an easy way to flush it out? Can I just remove the thermostat and spray my hose in there to flush it out? I'm aware there are coolant drain plugs in the engine but I'm thinking they could be a pain to access/remove, no? If not, I will just flush the entire system before I replace any parts and call it "good enough". p.s. I'm still debating about replacing the thermostat. I probably will wind up putting in a new Mopar unit. p.p.s. Lucky me, I own an Uview Airlift which makes refilling stupid easy :)

OK, thanks I have one of those that I bought on sale but haven't used yet. I changed out the sway bar & end link bushings because they were rotten and I have a feeling my control arm bushings are probably pretty worn out too, so i think I'll have a job to do soon LOL.

That looks like a lot of work. I like how the exhaust exits on an angle.

Did you use a press to change out the bushings?

My bad, I was remembering my 91 rear bumper incorrectly. To be honest I've spent very little time under my '91. I was under there just long enough to remove the spare and fix the adjustable brake load valve. See, looks OEM to me but I haven't looked behind a whole lot of OEM bumpers LOL: p.s. I wish I was better with working with metal. I'd like to sandblast it & brackets, then fix all the dents and powdercoat it, make it look like new :)

That just goes to show you the difference between replacement metal parts. Sherman is one name that comes to mind that is crappy in terms of fitment.

$0.909/L at Costco last week