87Warrior

When I saw the ad, I had a $20k price in mind. Trucks that aren't near as cool, with high mileage, and have be altered have started to fetch $10k+.

Welcome. You know. It always starts out as one Comanche...then two...then three...then four.........

Yup. You need a whole stack of 'Spot Weld Cutters'. When I was doing the floors in my '92, I pulled the caps as well. Harbor Freight sells the spot weld cutters for about $6 a piece. I did find that the spot weld cutters from Amazon, Eastwood, etc that cost more, last longer and provide a better cut.

This hitch was in very poor condition cosmetically. There were about 5 layers of thick paint and a lot of rust. I media blasted it, primed, painted and bedllined (to hide some of the rust pitting). I started by pulling the bumper brackets. Only one frame nut remained in good shape, three broke off inside the frame and the other four had snapped bolts rusted in place. Instead of trying to weld in new nuts and drill and tap the others, I took out the trusty air chisel and knocked all of the nuts off and inserted Grade 8 bolts from the inside of the frame. A long breaker bar made this easy. I need to pick up some longer bolts to get more than two exposed threads at the end. Hitch installed with the Fey bumper and 1/4" bumper brackets that came with the truck. This Valley hitch hangs LOW. Now I need to install a trailer light plug...

I figured the little Warn sold. I wanted to buy it.

Very nice. Congrats. I really like the 2 door JK :)

The only 'paint' on sound deadening I am aware of is called Lizard Skin. It essentially creates small air pockets in the paint to absorb sounds. I don't see how it would make any difference in a Jeep. High quality rubberized undercoating, applied to the under side of the cab, should help reduce some road noise. Once again, I doubt it would help out the old MJ too much. While building my '92 I have started to work on sound elimination inside the cab. I purchased a product called "FatMat" which is identical to the other foil and tar based insulators on the market. It was reasonably priced and doesn't have any petroleum smell. I have applied it to the roof, back of the cab, in the B-pillar and doors on the outermost layer of sheet metal and on some of the door and B-pillar metal inside the cab. Since the truck still doesn't run, I cannot comment on the FatMat's effectiveness on the road. However, with a nearly empty cab shell, the doors shut extremely quiet. I would compare it to the sound my WK's doors make when shutting. In addition to the FatMat, I have 1/2" jute padding to go under the carpet as well as a synthetic foil backed fiber insulation. This synthetic foil backed insulation was recommended by my body shop guy not only to help reduce noise in the cab, but the foil will help keep water off the fresh floors if some happens to leak through the carpet and it is supposed to block heat. I am not keen on applying any of the FatMat or any other foil/tar based insulation to the floor boards. If water ever got under that stuff, you would never know it :cry:

The housing you got is probably for a 4.0 HO. They are basically the same thing, just has an extra hole tapped in it. I would plug the hole with a brass plug from the hardware store or the autoparts store and be done with it.

Looking good! That is the perfect truck to use as a wheeler.

I didn't trust my 110v Hobart to weld new axle brackets on my TJ's rear axle. I tried and tried to get good penetration with scrap metal and scrap axle tube, but I wasn't satisfied, even though it probably would have worked fine. Used a buddies 220v Miller and was very pleased with the results. RuffStuff has some nice, long, perches.

I have found myself needing a trailer hitch several times over the past few years to pull around a small trailer. Sure my '03 TJ and '06 WK have hitches, but I don't really want to use them to tote a lawn mower or load of trash around. That is why I bought this truck! Four years ago I bought a used MJ trailer hitch from a forum member for my '92. The truck ended up in the body shop before I could used it, so the poor hitch just sat in the attic. Until now. I finally removed the paper wrap it was shipped to me in. Does anybody know what kind of hitch this is? Is it a factory unit or another? The paint is flaking off and it has some rust, so I will media blast it and repaint. In anticipation for a weekend project, I crawled behind the truck to blast the bumper bolts with PB Blaster. I had never removed the bolts holding the 1/4" bumper brackets to the frame since what was there worked with my Fey bumper. I found the passenger side bracket only has one bolt holding it in place and was welded to the frame.... Now this hitch installation just got a little more interesting.

I haven't had any issue with the Spectra single core radiators in my '86 2.5 MJ or '06 5.7 WK :wavey:

Why? Because it is big and shiny. Oh, and it has an LED light bar.

I've got the axles and the truck, just don't have the time to mix 'em! My plan up front is a 3 link. With the Ford 60 you will start to run out of room for link/shock/coil mounts on the driver side tube. Especially if you are using a Super Duty axle. Why run a 3/4 ton rear axle and a one ton front axle?

Maybe my google phu is broken, but I have spent my entire lunch break searching for this full size jeep comanche. Nothing. JeepCo, was the Comanche reference something Jeepers created when referring to the FSJ pickups? Like when we use LJ to reference a TJ Unlimited? It is universally known, but not official.

:agree: Poor MJ didn't deserve that!

I did it, but only because it was a cheap way to replace the rockers that were rotting away. Used 1/4" 2x4 box that was cut from an old International Harvester cultivator. It was very easy to install the box rockers :driving: Chop: I didn't go all the way because this truck was never intended to be a hardcore wheeling rig. Place: Burn: Paint: When these box rockers land on a BFR, the tin noise resonates throughout the whole truck!

You could do the 97+ XJ tank mod. It is about the same shape and size of the 2.5 tank, but sits between the fender and inner fender. You will need to drill/cut for the filler neck. You can see the cut for the neck next to the PCM in this pic:

The clerk at AutoZone had no problem fetching the correct radiator hoses when I was in there buying antifreeze that was on sale. Dayco/Hose (Upper) Part Number: B70974

Are the '64 and '66 Fleetside lights the same size? I know my father has a rusted out '66 longbox behind his shop I could take a tape measure to.

Wow, that pooch is rough. I wouldn't touch that with $1k, might poke at it around $500. The body rot isn't too concerning to me, but that heavy line of rust between the frame layers is worrisome.

Huh, so its called 'Angry Eyes' eh? Never knew what the style was called, but I find it ugly. It's just a cheap way for somebody to get their kicks at 'modifying' their car.

Don't turn down a clean/rust free 2.5L!

My friend, Erich, replaced the cab-side hat sections after welding in replacement pans. IIRC he treated the concealed portions with POR-15 before he welded them in place.As did I, or rather, my body shop guy did since my welding skills are weak. Everything was coated in POR15 and where the spot welds are located was cleaned and coated in weld through primer. The seat studs are simply screwed into nuts welded to the bottom of the floor.

Aint that the truth. This past weekend I helped a friend move his CJ2A project across the county and was amazed at how small it was. I have no doubt that some of those side-by-sides are actually bigger than the 2A.