yxmj

The 8.8 diff is off set by about 3" One axle tube is 20" the other 17" It is about 7/8 " narrower overall than the 35

The body looks in good shape....original rims......if it wasn't 2000 miles away I would pony up the $800 in a heartbeat

Atlanta has the great distinction of being the only city to "donate" 2 teams to Canadian cities...as mentioned above...both Calgary and Winnipeg have benefitted Nothing to do with the original post but a trivia tidbit for you....

He says it is plastic.... The collars I. Have seen are metal??

Will this help? http://clubs.hemmings.com/potomacramblers/Tech%20Tips%20pdf_img/trak-lok_diff_5313-3.pdf

Best guess is it is this http://picclick.ca/Dana-30-Axle-Shaft-Inner-Dust-Slinger-Jeep-262612520337.html

Here is how you calculate the size of a tire... 235= the width of the tire in mm...convert that to inches and you get 9.25" 75 is the size of the side wall shown as a percentage of the width..176.25mm 0r 6.938 inches r17 is the rim or 17 inches so if you take the side wall height x 2 + the rim you get (6.93 x 2) + 17 or 30.86".....We will say 30 7/8" to round up. So smaller than 31 If you choose a tire that has a 70% or 65% profile ....or a narrower tread width you would have even more room . :MJ 1: .

Now to be accurate you would need to calculate the width of the spacer/adapter to the offset of that rim.....but these would fit in the wheel wheel without a lift. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=&width=235/&ratio=75&diameter=17&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17

If you had the right adapter...with a 17"rim as long as you mounted tires with a side wall 7" or under....you would not have to lift A 235/75/r17 would fit (if such a tire exists)

Resistors.... Do you mean relays?

If you like you can try somthing that I have done many times on multiple jeeps with good results...next time you change your oil....drain it....put the plug back in and pour in 5 liters of diesel.... Run it up to temp and drain (you can do it more than once if it is in the budget)...then top it up with oil and a new filter... Nothing beats a good wash I also just did this on a YJ AX5 with angry syncros...and it turned the growl to a purr....

As mentioned above...they are on the same circuit...check the fuse

Mine is a stock 87....8 slots

You do not have to "pull the gears" But since this is a "NEW"(to you) truck why not be sure and do some simple preventive maintenance at the same time. Remove the diff covers and drain the fluid,,,,the gear ratio is stamped on the large ring gear. This way you will have no doubt as to the ratios....you will have had the chance to give each diff a personal visual inspection .....and you will know that in the end they are running fresh correct fluids. Instead of 20+ year old possibly incorrect juice. Why guess when it it as easy as that. :dunno: As for the no start.....the comment you said about it starting cold but not starting hot brings to mind a CPS failure.....I have had a couple do this.... I might be wrong but it is worth a look...one fast trick i found by accident was when it warmed up and will not start try spraying the CPS (as best you can) with brake or carb cleaner.....if that cools it down enough to restart...that narrows it down... :???:

Just for my own info...why would you want a soft top on the bed of the truck... why not a normal cap? I do not see an advantage.... Am I missing something?

It is also wider and has a different bolt pattern......if those differences concern you ....and depending on the year has a vac-cad control....

Benz Smart cars have 3 bolt rims

Worn parts do NOT cause death wobble. As I have stated before, I have experienced true death wobble twice. Once was in the '88 MJ -- AFTER I had removed the lift and replaced just about every replaceable part in the front suspension. The issue was tire balance, nothing more. Rotated the tires and the problem never came back. The other time was in my then-new 1999 Grand Cherokee WJ, when it was maybe six months old and had well under 10,000 miles on it. All stock, had never been off-road. Death wobble kicked in at between 50 and 55 MPH when, going down a long downgrade, I touched the brakes lightly to maintain the speed limit. The rotors were warped, and that set it off. But -- the rotors were warped before the incident (I was 250 miles from home at the time) and the rotors stayed warped for weeks afterward. But that was the only time death wobble occurred. This is not an accurate statement. As the list shows above "death wobble" can have many origins beyond unbalanced tires. Tires are were I always start and work backwards....but i myself have had death wobble that was the result of worn parts (different in all cases) that was resolved by replacing (or removing repairing and re-installing) the worn part. And is some cases it might be more than one part that needs to be looked at..........and if adding a stabilizer solves it.....start working backward from there....if the tuck is set up right you can run without the stabilizer and have no problems. Use the list above as a guideline and eliminate all one at a time until you find the cause. :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: .

As long as it is allowed to dry what could it harm?? Is the tcase out ? If so be sure by sacrificing a quart or 2 of atf...put it back together temporarily ....without sealing it....add some atf and turn it over by the front output while it is engaged (run it through the gears if you are inclined) then drain that fluid...split it ...lay it open side down for a bit....then wipe it down and re-assemble it....just think of it as doing the dishes...

I am no photographer but i don't think the subject matter of that picture is the MJ or her hairline...... :thumbsup:

Just MHO but I think you might have other issues I have never heard of loss of power from an oil pump change. Do you get the power back when it warms up? Because that different temp would be equivalent (roughly) to the different viscosity of the 2 oils you mentioned.... Put it this way....when I do an oil changes I often dump the oil and then put in 5 liters of diesel and run it up to temp with the diesel (then drain the diesel and put in new oil and filter) and there is no noticeable power loss or gain. If you had temp extreme... from a hot to a cold...the oil would possibly make a slight difference. I would look at everything you did while you were in there first....somthing else is the cause of the power loss..... :dunno:

Adding on to that....when looking for packs you do not have to stay strictly Jeep. Any pack with the correct width can be a donor....S10 and Explorer springs are my favorite ....thay are both spring under and have a great curve.....and I just took the droop out of my daughters XJ with Chev 1500 springs

You do not need a press....the old one is fubar so you do not need to be nice to it (there are removers avaliable.. I use a pry bar)..the new just needs to be gently installed with a hammer and appropriately sized block....of course this is with the axle out

I have to get one of those for my 2.5..... But back to the LED question ...I think I was misunderstood.... Do not wire the drl mod to the low beams...use the output to trigger your led relay...

Canadian Jeeps are fitted with a daytime running light mod from the factory. You can Google them. For example my son's 96 XJ (5 speed) light go on auto after about 1 meter of movement...the off auto with the key. Maybe you can use a similar control for just your LED's