yxmj

Even the best aftermarket floor pan will require some "massaging" and fab work to make fit....so your simple equation is this.......re-pop pans $$$$ = your time to remove the xj pans...if the numbers work for you....

Is the tree a factory option?

It's your truck...do what you can within your budget and your skill set to make it look the way you want.....there are quite a few 2wd MJ's on this site set up exactly like you are describing whose owners like there look and drivability... go ahead with your existing plan....you will love the end result.

Look at my avatar.... 2" pucks in the front to take out the rake and 31" BFG's on 15x8 rims....picture it an inch higher....

Endure yourself to the forum......take a moment...use the search option...read others build threads..... Read others 2wd to 4wd threads ......the answer to all your questions are right here......but to answer quick yes....no....yes...there is a thread on that here

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Read this it talks about the no neutral......it is easily modified by grinding the shift plate https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer-cases/np231/

Those round silver tags will have numbers stamped into them....they will give you info on the type....231/242/207....ect......as well as an original assembled date code..... And if you are not aware already if from an early wrangler (YJ) the bolt pattern will be slightly different...... The clocking will be off....(this can be over come)

I have a mechanics stethoscope.... Makes me feel educated when I wear it.....anyway....when placed against the rear end housing or axle tube you can clearly hear the difference between a healthy bearing and one that needs attention. If you have one or can get your hands on one...lift the rear and rotate one side then the other while placing the pick up end in different spots...... Might help you narrow it down?

First guess....is it an auto.....cracked flex plate?

The advantage of using the fan Pete describes is that it will fit in with no mods ( except maybe the plug)....and give you about 20% more air flow....look at xj's in the jy...from 99 to 2001

It has been a while since I wrenched on one.....but it looks like just a run of the mill small block Chevy tab.....any old bow tie motor would have one??

good to hear This is what this site is for

Any chance the dust shield is rubbing on the rotor?

Do you count the fuel that dribbles out when I am upside down?

Before you try the torch try this.....i see PB blaster in one of your pictures Scroll down to the bottom this is your picture.....see the seam my pen is pointing to....that is were the unit bearing separates.....spray that seam with pb blaster look at this pic.....this is the UB out.....you can see how it fits in not much holding it in Now 1) put the nuts you took off back on the ball joints and snug them up 2) Put the 3 bolts that hold the unit bearing in back in and turn them in 3 turns 3) Spray that seam with PB blaster again 4) See the tool in the pic i attached....it is called cold chisel .....see if you have one or something similar 5) Put on some gloves and safety glasses 6)Place the chisel almost like the pen in the pic....on the "ear" of the bearing and right on the seam....tap it 2 or 3 times with a hammer...now tap the head of the bolt in the back that goes on that "ear" repeat that on each of the 3 ears.....shoot more PB blaster on the seam.....look at the pic above.....you just need to get the seam to start to open.....PB blast it again.....try tapping the cold chisel into the seam to open it....work one ear at a time....cold chisel on the seam and tap the bolt....... Sorry if my pics are out of order......

Take a moment a post a couple of more pics....a shot from the front straight on....from the rear straight on and one from the side....will all respect you are doing more work and damaging more parts than need be.

My avatar is a 2wd stock Springs in the rear and a 2" puck in the front to eliminate some of the "rake" ....the rear sits now about 1" higher than the front....31" BFG's on 15 x 8 Eagle alloys

First to be clear......you are trying to bolt this trans to what engine? second if you have a 904 (the 903 in your subject line is a standard) there will be casting marks in 2 spots on the housing near the starter indent and on the housing near the shiftier rod.....what are these numbers And as said above you will be needing to use your original crank position sensor.....it is not reading information from the trans....it just detects the clocking of the crankshaft

Ok Pete Awesome..... I will test with my super hero alter ego pic

Nice

Been a while since I was here.....now that the photobucket is fubar....what is the quick and easy alternative to post pics here....thanks

Right back at ya Show us some picks of these survivors (****for the record I have no idea how to post pics here****)

XJ upcountry front springs or ZJ V8 fronts will give you a bit more than an inch.....one thing that some people do not realize is that a factory spring isolater is 5/8"....they can be stacked with a spring spacer combination to "dial in" a required height in 5/8" increments

I don't know if this helps but.....to install mine I took off the lower rad hose (google it from the mustang guys to the old school rod boys the lower hose is the best spot for it) I cut the hose in half with a grinder and cut off wheel (this hose has a spring in it to keep it from collapsing from the suction of the water pump) then i went to parts source and found a piece of galvanized exhaust extension that would act as a splicer....next trip was to home depot to buy a bung that my sensor switch would screw into.....then back home ....drilled the a hole in the pipe and welded the bung in.....gave it a shot of galvanized paint.....my sensor was a one terminal unit that was meant to ground the fan when triggered....since it was mounted both sides in a rubber hose and insulated from ground I cut a groove in the lip of it and soldered a ground wire right to it and straight back to the battery....the terminal of the switch is run to the negative side of the fan. the positive wire of the fan runs to the positive side of a relay I control from the cab......now if I feel i need the cooling I turn on the switch in the cab ( this gives + to the fan) if it get hot enough the sensor switch in the hose triggers....grounds out the fan and it turns on........have 2 Yj's a an XJ and my MJ like this and i am very happy with them Since your in Canada you should really look into this because I run without any fan (mechanical or electric) for a good portion of the year