yxmj

It is on you new bearing.....the old one just separated when you removed it....get that piece out....file or sand down any divots made in the process....clean everything up and the new one should press in easy

Appreciate all the offers and info....i watched 2 Utube...videos that show some common "easy" repairs....mostly to do with the corrosion on the plugs and grounds.....i am going to dig into it tonight and see what happens

Watch the video again...at 1:04...you see him removing the piece that you left in.....try the chisel method above

Take a small cold chisel and a hammer put the chisel on the seam (lip) at 6'oclock....tap it a few times.....does the seam become more noticeable? If so...smack it hard and bend it up so you can remove it. I do not recall ever seeing a "stepped" 2 level cup.....but I have not seen everything....... Yet

I got 2 guesses....wrong bearing is the easy guess....harder guess...did you get the complete old bearing out of the cup....take a pic of what you removed...

Ya....it should be snug.....but not break with a sledge snug.....take a pic of your rear diff cover....and a pic of the bearing with the box it came in with the part number visible if possible

But with my MJ grill....I would not have those nice wide drawers.... But I guess I would have 7 nice deep long ones....ok I am in....

Type of rear-end... 35...44....8.25....would not matter...the process would be the same.....you need to be more descriptive on why you can't get yours in.....you got the old one out . . . right.... Let's start there

Thank you

Sorry 4.0 5 speed Dirty already burst my JY bubble

Sons 1996 XJ needs a new ECU…..mu question is does anyone have a “Crossover “chart….can I us a 95….a 97….a 99 ??? Need to find one to make sure that is the solution. Thanks

Not to be a stickler.... But it is a 2.5.... 2.4 is a newer Chrysler product

I don't know the size but you are bolting either a "ring gear" or a "flex plate" a "flywheel" is used in a system that has a clutch.....

If you pull the cover before you start to count look for them number stamped into the edge of the gear (save some count'en)

Mine was under the seat sandwiched between the foam and a couple wires......should have left it there cuz a can't remember where I stashed it now....

Straight pipe through a thrush is always nice

No....that would not be the concern.....with a 4.0 out of a ZJ.....if my memory is right....you need to make sure the attachment holes for the motor mounts are in the correct position and that it has all the other mounting points for necessary brackets to mount your accessories...... Some holes are not there in some cases.....

I don't understand that? You said the 99 got you a trans and a t-case to go with.....were does the auto come in?

The 99 t-case you say comes with the trans will work perfect for you

Get yourself some M12 XC high capacity batteries and you are prepared for anything

Is it possible the float is moving through its full range of motion

Well it has been a few years... but if he is still running the same rig....he can't be farther than a gallon ahead of you.....

Yes sir you are correct Gr/white to the orange Black to black and the pump fired up Thanks

This would require removal of you water pump.....but that being said.....flush with clean water as described above....now get a shop vac....not yours borrow your buddies....add a chunk of hose (garden hose/pvc.) Whatever is easy for you....stick it in the end of the shop vac hose and seal it tight with electrical or packing tape......now you can stick it into the block and crannies of the block and clean it right up.

Well…sad to say that is how I came up with the idea originally…at 15 I was making a river crossing in a lifted Chevy Scottsdale when my mechanical fuel pump gave up the ghost (conveniently at the deepest part)……I swam/waded back to shore….walked back upstream a bit to a local farmers dock…..”borrowed” his tinny boat and floated back to my truck….tied off to the roll bar…..took his red boat fuel tank and set it on my roof roped off to my roll bar….ran the fuel line down the windshield and under the hood……did some surgery on the metal fuel line to break it and point it upward ….attached the fuel hose from the boat tank and fired it up and sailed away……(yes I did return the farmers boat and fuel). This turns into a helpful funny story……years later when I was about 23 I was working out of town and staying in a work camp with all the other employee’s …..Friday rolls around and unfortunately for me my only ride home is with a guy by the name of “Donnie” (looked like he had every Grateful dead record ever made)…..we get 1 mile or so down the road and his fords fuel pump dies on us…..already having an idea we walk back to camp and remove the gas take off of a Briggs that ran a cement mixer…..I wired it to Donnie’s inner fender higher than the carb attached it to fuel line and we were off on our 2hour drive home…..ONE GALLON AT A TIME (we syphoned out of the tank into a whisky bottle as we went) Flash ahead about 10 years I am now Driving a brand new Ford….I pull into a small town “watering Hole” to get a refreshment….take my drink and go out on the patio…..about 5 min later I watch an old ford that looks familiar back in by my new truck…..driver jumps out ….pops his hood…..goes in the back of the truck for a Gerry can…..goes back under the hood and pours the gas into his “fender” then closes the hood returns the can…..only when he turns around and starts walking towards me do I recognize “Donnie”……still running on the same tank I wired to his fender 10 years before…..Going done the road one gallon at a time…………… Am I the first person to ever hijack their own thread? Getting back to that I think my next best guess from looking at ever wiring diagram out there is that this may be an aftermarket pump….if I substitute the orange at the tank and the green white at the frame I have for Brown like in the diagrams…..it makes sense