yxmj

And yes for those who are worried.... I will be wearing my white lab coat and my mechanics stethoscope during the surgery

It is on you new bearing.....the old one just separated when you removed it....get that piece out....file or sand down any divots made in the process....clean everything up and the new one should press in easy

Appreciate all the offers and info....i watched 2 Utube...videos that show some common "easy" repairs....mostly to do with the corrosion on the plugs and grounds.....i am going to dig into it tonight and see what happens

Watch the video again...at 1:04...you see him removing the piece that you left in.....try the chisel method above

Take a small cold chisel and a hammer put the chisel on the seam (lip) at 6'oclock....tap it a few times.....does the seam become more noticeable? If so...smack it hard and bend it up so you can remove it. I do not recall ever seeing a "stepped" 2 level cup.....but I have not seen everything....... Yet

I got 2 guesses....wrong bearing is the easy guess....harder guess...did you get the complete old bearing out of the cup....take a pic of what you removed...

Ya....it should be snug.....but not break with a sledge snug.....take a pic of your rear diff cover....and a pic of the bearing with the box it came in with the part number visible if possible

But with my MJ grill....I would not have those nice wide drawers.... But I guess I would have 7 nice deep long ones....ok I am in....

Type of rear-end... 35...44....8.25....would not matter...the process would be the same.....you need to be more descriptive on why you can't get yours in.....you got the old one out . . . right.... Let's start there

Thank you

Sorry 4.0 5 speed Dirty already burst my JY bubble

Sons 1996 XJ needs a new ECU…..mu question is does anyone have a “Crossover “chart….can I us a 95….a 97….a 99 ??? Need to find one to make sure that is the solution. Thanks

Not to be a stickler.... But it is a 2.5.... 2.4 is a newer Chrysler product

I don't know the size but you are bolting either a "ring gear" or a "flex plate" a "flywheel" is used in a system that has a clutch.....

If you pull the cover before you start to count look for them number stamped into the edge of the gear (save some count'en)

Mine was under the seat sandwiched between the foam and a couple wires......should have left it there cuz a can't remember where I stashed it now....

Straight pipe through a thrush is always nice

No....that would not be the concern.....with a 4.0 out of a ZJ.....if my memory is right....you need to make sure the attachment holes for the motor mounts are in the correct position and that it has all the other mounting points for necessary brackets to mount your accessories...... Some holes are not there in some cases.....

I don't understand that? You said the 99 got you a trans and a t-case to go with.....were does the auto come in?

The 99 t-case you say comes with the trans will work perfect for you

Get yourself some M12 XC high capacity batteries and you are prepared for anything

Is it possible the float is moving through its full range of motion

Well it has been a few years... but if he is still running the same rig....he can't be farther than a gallon ahead of you.....

Yes sir you are correct Gr/white to the orange Black to black and the pump fired up Thanks

This would require removal of you water pump.....but that being said.....flush with clean water as described above....now get a shop vac....not yours borrow your buddies....add a chunk of hose (garden hose/pvc.) Whatever is easy for you....stick it in the end of the shop vac hose and seal it tight with electrical or packing tape......now you can stick it into the block and crannies of the block and clean it right up.