yxmj

Did you all ever think that maybe he is building something for different reasons.... Leafs on a jeep when done properly will be stronger and more stable than any coil. Can carry more weight....NEVER have death wobble....very stable......I guess it is what you want.....if you feel the need for that pic of your front wheel lifted up 3 feet in the air on the fork lift..... Maybe no.....scratching my head now cuz I have lots of hard off road miles.....never come across a fork lift on the trail.......... Like said above look on Pirate ......also keep the fixed attachment on the front... on that site or others look at "box sliders" ....you build a strong truck that drives like it's on rails.....IMHO

Take a moment and describe your exact technique ....."bleeding by hand" doesn't count as a description

With all due respect.....if your only answer is to say to take it to a mechanic/garage.....maybe you should not be answering in the tech section? OP....have you changed your oil lately?.... I have successfully solved lifter noise many times with a simple flush and a quick oil change....PM me and I can send you my "do the Dishes" routine that works every time

I have both types The 92 and later is a far better set up to get power and to maintain. Just keep in mind if you change to the newer style you need to make sure you get the harness and the ecu for that motor.

Keep driving west.....soon the dash clock will read the correct time......your welcome

No.....they would need to be moved slightly (8.8)

Don't shoot the horse yet....head will probably be good....a gasket might be all you need...

I have basically the same setup...... The only thing I have extra is toggles in cab so I can manually over-ride for either off or on (one for each fan). And to make you think about it......I can run 90% of the time with no fan running....

Tires have been balanced after all work was done?

Trade the 33's for a equal set of 31's and you will not have to butcher your truck to run them......it will also be easier on you axles and tranny running that size tire....IMHO

I don't know why jeep driver was quoted here? But ok

An amc eagle was IFS ...and 4x4....and used essentially the same motor and drive as an MJ

Like mentioned above....rubber will fit under the. Truck....but if those are like you say "wrangler" rims...the bolt pattern is different... what am I missing?

You can get it off without taking off the thermostat housing......but do you not have 2 bolts Lowe right that go through a bracket for the power steering pump and a idler pulley......that is more of the tricky part.....but it can be done

Stay off the Coquihalla ….take the Crow’s Nest…..less traffic and more scenery…… 750 miles is easy….here is my last trip summery Winnipeg to Vancouver Via the Coquihalla…..Vancouver to Winnipeg Via the Crow’s Nest……1992 YJ 4 banger 2 wheel drive……Check out my top speed…..had to be going downhill on that one…… If your truck is running well as you say.....Make sure you have good tires.....and good brakes.....

The pump weep hole is on the bottom....if you have fluid on the to it is coming from somewhere else

Look on Kijiji.....there are a couple in that price range closer to you.....

To try and answer to the original question ....This is what i have had in a YJ ......works and will not break you..... ...In my crude drawing the "X" box is a simple 3 terminal heavy duty ignition solenoid....basically a switch.....it turns on and compleats the circuit between the two large terminals when a positive voltage is introduced to the small terminal (the unit is bolted to a metal chassis component for ground) Your set up would be this.....stock battery is in its original spot and has 1 additional battery cable installed to the positive terminal and connected to one of the large terminals on the x box ...... Your second battery is mounted as you say in the air box space....ALL the extra outputs you want get attached to this battery....you have one battery cable sized lead that is run from the positive terminal to the second large terminal on the x box. Your second battery will need to be ground well. I would suggest running an individual ground to each output no mater were you mount it. The third terminal on the x box is the activation switch......this switch will require 12 volts but minimal current..... So as my poor drawing shows now you are free to have these any cheap and easy options to activate the x box and connect the batteries you could run it the ignition you could run it from a toggle you could run it from a push button momentary. Or any other. I run mine with a illuminated toggle......so i can visually see when it is connected no mater what state the motor is in. I

Just re-read this.....so your doing this to run a electric camp stove......?

Nobody asked this yet so.....you got another battery tray.....were where you thinking of putting it?

Start by removing the top rad hose and fill it from there.....replace the hose....fill the coolent bottle and run it for a bit.....report back

Or....if you do have the 30 -4:10.....save some cash and find a 8.8......4:10 and posi with big disk brakes will be easy to find....you never said if you were going spring under or over....I stay under.....but either would be as much fab work or less as any you will find........but your initial investment will be much less

Pull the "hair pin" at the base of the line right were it goes into the main body.....the line will pop out....there is an o ring....replace the line with your old one and push the clip back in.

Sorry...I thought you were just over the border in Saskabush

Look on Kijiji Manitoba.....there is an ad for a pre and post 97....$250 for both......would that be of interest to you?