yxmj

Thanks But if I can't figure out the "correct" way by mid afternoon.......then I have a trick that involves a pressurize weed sprayer with fuel in it strapped to the roof rack to feed the fuel rail....not for kids or the faint of heart.....but it will move a jeep to a dry level spot to allow for repairs without having to dig a tunnel in the snow to crawl under it....

Thanks Eagle Somewhere in my dim memory I think that the green white on the frame side is power that should go to the orange on the tank..... The other 2 wires must be fuel level and low fuel light? We left the rig there and will be returning this afternoon to try to rig up.... And fyi all frame wires are same size (smaller) and all tank wires are about 2 sizes larger......anybody else have any wisdom

1998 XJ no fuel easy to figure out...... the plug from the frame harness to the fuel pump harness got the Robin hood treatment from a stray branch plug is MIA have ... red black blue green orange black out of the tank have...... brown yellow green white black blue green out of frame i am going to guess black goes to black ......that's were my guessing ends anybody have any diagrams close by to point me in the right direction so i can get this guys rig out of the bush and back home

If you take the top and bottom of any of the newer ones you should be able to transfer all applicable hoses and sensors over to it without trying to match the old top to the new bottom.....it can be done......or you can remove yours and reform / reshape it with a heatgun...a couple of blocks of wood and some clamps

One thought would be the 2000 D30 is a low pinion

And always use this simple rule....oil pressure is like money in your wallet or your wife/girlfriends boobs.......your never look at either of those and say " that's too much".....IMHO

Just fyi Brake lines are made to be used in a similar system but a harsher environment . They come with the same size fittings and you can easily source one that has both a "rubber" flex end and a long bendable metallic end......at a cost saving......

If you take out the battery and the tray you can get the space to access the bolts and Jenga it out and in.....

Please enlighten me (us) on this statement?

Or hunt down a Dakota bell housing and jump right up to an AX15.......

I have a 2000 XJ rad in my 87 MJ....it fit like a glove.....you should be able to make any one work?

Or....you can test your water pump If you are 100% certain that you have the correct rotation pump on....there are reverse rotation pumps ..... Take the heater hose off of the water pump.. .put a chunk of scrap hose on it and please the end in a milk jug or pail....start the motor.....do you get a strong stream of water?

To be clear....you still have the tank on the firewall?? Or if you have a rad with a cap.....maybe just the cap?

Or your water pump is on the way out....is it weeping from the hole on the bottom?

You don't mention your year......keep in mind an xj windshield of the same year (s) will work

Does not crank? Do you mean the starter is turning the engine but it will not fire up? The air intake or air box would have nothing to do with that. Is it possible you knocked loose a connection of a sensor when you were working around the TB?

I have a 1999 XJ with a police package that came from the factory with 3:73's.....it is the only time I have seen that ratio in an XJ......that being said if you are set on that ratio I would personally source the front first (as it is rare) then match it to a more easily attainable rear end ....IMHO

The confusion might come from the research....a YJ of that Era did not come with a doughnut (4.2) And I have a 92 YJ 2.5 that is the same....that every year or so needs the bolts tighten to stop the slapping sound at start up..... When my 87 MJ started slapping and popping I just automatically got under there with the socket and extention and tighten them up....never looked to see if there was a doughnut..... But she stopped making noise??

The actual rating is in inch pounds...and yes you are being lazy....google it..... That being said the more important technique is righting it down equality... like you torque down a wheel.....google that too....I like to do mine in the same pattern as you tighten down head bolts...(google that)....finger tight first....then just a nut driver...then a small 1/4" ratchet to snug it up.....like putting a spark plug in.....sometimes that famous rear valve cover leak......is just because the back ones are harder to get at and get tightened last.....IMHO

Do you have a pic of it folded / rolled up against the cab....leaving the box open?

You would be able to make a harness off a 4.0 obd 1 work......if that is any help...

Yes it is possible If the flex plate was rotating off kilter ....the cps might have been getting sporadic readings ...that mighty have been the hesitation you had .....but unfortunately.... You will not know until you get another mounted up......I am surprised it came apart without a lot of noise previous to that....maybe that was not a lifter "ticking" ...

You can easily splice them together if you have chunks of the "hard" vac line....just sleeve it over with rubber tube......make sure your solid line is touching with no gaps. To figure out what goes were....with the truck running have a helper pull on the 4x4 lever while you put your finger over the end of the hose....the one that makes vac when the lever is pulled goes on the drivers side of the actuator pod.....the other goes on the passenger

The rubber plug is your fill plug.....use a wide flat screwdriver or chisel (or2) pry it out...

Add some whisky.....that is a Winnipeg shooter.........won;t freeze in the air.......but you need a skill set to drink it politely.....