yxmj

I have used the batter cable pull method many times with no problems.....maybe the warning is for more modern hi tech ecu's that we have..... but to answer the question better....get a DC volt meter.....with the truck off what is the battery voltage.....should be more that 12....I like 12.3-12.5......now start the truck and take another reading.....a healthy alt will read between 12.7 and 14.5....lower is no good .....(probably brushes)....higher is no good....something internal is fubar

Same as above but use the hydraulic in your power steering for your advantage Turn the three bolts that hold the unit bearing in about 3 or 4 turns This works better with a helper but you can do it on your own.....looking at your second bottom picture...turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (passenger side) now use a bolt or ( I use a deep socket) wedge the socket/bolt between the head of the unit bearing bolt and the nearest part of the knuckle....now have your helper turn the steering wheel slowly right ( towards the drivers side).....stop and repeat this process with the front bolt (turn the wheel all the way right ....wedge the bolt/socket between the head of the front bolt and the knuckle...slowly turn left)....it is the same thing as hitting it with a hammer but you are using the power steering to apply pressure to the head of the unit bearing bolts and push them out.....penetrating oil or PB blaster shot all around the seam of the unit bearing will be helpful as well

As with all Jeeps...the first think to check is that little leather folder in your back pocket.....if that is good....no problem

Oh....best to mount it in the lower (return) rad hose

Google 195-210 fan switch.....you will find lots....summit racing has them....amazon has them for under $10.....mine is off a mid 90's Chevy (vette/marrow)....works great

Not my ad or my pricing....just FYI for anyone who might be interested.......feel free to move this if you think it fits better else were http://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-body-parts/winnipeg/jeep-comanche-tail-lights/1196974824?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Isn't the front diff on the passenger side on a Chief?

Sorry yes ...my ford speak is wrong...strange how I got the more obscure Mercury module right??

You want one out of an expedition (or the mercury equivalent....Mountaineer ?) not an F150 That will get you 7/8" narrower 4.5 on 5 pattern Axle shafts are bigger than 44 And you can usually find them with 4.10 position and disk btraks

Is the new wheel a mirror image of the old....do all the "teeth" and notches line up perfectly...if not the flywheel is not sending the right info to the cps

Do you have sliders on your MJ? Would love to see some pics. I will add to the high jack with a late response....Sorry I did not notice the question No sliders on the mj as of yet buy they are partially fabbed up and will be installed when I put a new rear diff in...( from the templates I made up it will be an almost "natural" install and should look very clean) I do have them on a YJ.....which for the younger crowd is leaf spring front and back and the ride and handling are excellent (stock YJ front leafs have the shackle at the front....The slider is installed at the rear on both axles.) I don't have any pics but could take some.....BUT.....that video you posted is the exact video I found that got me interested and sold me on the idea.....search leaf spring sliders for pics of installs....they are used off road...dirt oval....and drag racing....mine I made myself.

To each his own.... I like mine...they allow the spring to work smoother and tighter ...in a pure liner motion like they should...not choppy because of the arch of the shackle and with modern polymers they last forever...

I don't think anyone makes a direct fit set mj specific. Most buy kits like above.... Or fab their own They are not new.....the idea has been around as long as leaf springs.....its retro - tech

Sliders will drop you even lower

First guess is front axle (not drive shaft)u-joint

Sorry for the late reply And for hijacking the thread Short answer yes.......here is a fast review If i was to send anyone to my shop to get my old go-to charger they would feel confident when they lifed it.....huge transformer it must weigh 25 lbs This unit on the other hand is stupidly light (when you pick up the box you think it is empty) here are the high points Nice long color coded cables with great clamps, as this it a digital unit it it impossible to reverse the clamps or short them out Large back light led display that you can see from inside the house through the window if need be, and audible beeping notifications when cycles are done. The screen will also give messages for open cells or shorted cells. Voltage feature lets you read voltage of the battery in or out of the jeep and while it is running or not. Alternator check is simple hook it up with the jeep running press the button....it say good....no good,,,,,and you can verify voltage by pressing the voltage button Engine start....this one blows my mind....take a jeep that is so dead the starter is just clicking (we have all been there) press the engine start button....that starts a 90 sec counter....when 90 secs are up it beeps....truck starts every time....how this works without a huge transformer to push power I do not know.....but it works without fail every time....even in Winnipeg at -30 when the jeep has been sitting for a week.(my favorite feature) The battery recondition button .....i can only say this....have a jeep that sits a lot.....battery seems to lose its charge just by sitting....i put the charger on and used this feature....walked away from it for a day or so.....when the cycle was done i took it off......that jeep has so far started every time i have tried it. The only point you need to be aware of is a fully drained battery.....the digital sensor will not recognize it and turn the battery on....some how (Cables, or another charger needs to be used to bring the volts to about 5.....then all is good....maybe there is a way around that I am missing . :MJ 1: . The last

Since you have a muti-meter try this easy test.....with the battery in and connected and the truck running take a voltage reading across the battery terminals....what is the voltage? It should be somewhere between 12.7 and 14.7 volts.....is that what you get? And this may be off topic but I recently got one of these... http://www.catautopower.com/25-amp-battery-charger.html This is cat brand but there are other brands out there.....not only will it charge your battery....but it has an engine start feature (boost) that works (Winnipeg -40 trust me) but it also has simple push button features that allow you to 1) check battery voltage.....2)do an in vehicle alternator check....3)and recondition the battery. and you don't have to guess if the battery is fubar....if it is it tells you right on the screen. . :MJ 1: .

Then good chance it is I described above....look for the tag or if you want to be positive take off the diff cover.....it will be stamped on the gear. But the 4 banger xj is a good donor

Sorry...is your me auto? Look on the diff cover...is there a tag there?

It is a a 2.5 not a 2.4 If factory yours will have 4.10(4.11) If the xj was factory and came with a 2.5 it will have 4.10(11) as well

Not one for lowering....but You can lose some hight and get a tighter more responsive rear by forgetting about shackles and going with sliders...

Like described above hold the "round" thicker section the bleeder screws into with vice grips then turn the bleeder out ( a bit of PB blaster or other penetrating oil sprayed on some time before will be a great help) (I always use a socket on the screw to prevent stripping......or you can replace the bleeder screw ....maybe try a speed bleeder?)

Yes it will fit....your only concern will be the rotation.... V-belt engines have water pumps that turn the other way....check this site for pics

With all do respect you don't need studs or chains or cables or a ball of grandma's special traction yarn..... The conditions you say you are encountering are a MILDER version of what I drive 6 months of the year. The first post you say you keep sliding off the road.......sliding with your foot on the brake probably..... When I sent my wife and daughters out in the snow for the first time my speech was this...."Jeep and I have given you the best 4x4 in the world.....but it all goes away and everybody is equal as soon as your foot touches that brake pedal" Here from your brief description are the top tips I would give 1) Don't drive in 4x4 unless you actually have to....it gives you an exaggerated sense of control....sometimes you need to feel the road in order to drive it correctly. 2) If your front end is locked it could be part of the problem.....my YJ front has a locker....my simple instructions/warning for those who are lucky enough to get a chance to drive it is the same I will give to you " Be careful were you point the grill....cuz it will go there....quickly" 3) Learn to drive your brakes first......in 2wd take a test run.....slam on the brakes.....feather the brakes......slowly push the brakes in......see how the vehicle reacts and feels.....in the end YOU are the driver....the jeep the tires the brakes....there just along for the ride you take them on... :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: . :Canadaflag:

For the transfer case shifter not for the tranny