yxmj

726 I would guess that the second wire is for the second light...the NP 242 was avalible that year so you had 2 choices for 4 HI....part time (yellow light in my 98) and full time (blue/green light)....just a guess.

That will buff right out....

Search this site....someone posted pics of a "factory" conversion a year or so back...I think the truck was located in South America... . :MJ 1: .

Like I said above you could make it work... Google this "SPST vacuum switch" If you can come across a switch like this....or alternatively make one like I said out of a vac actuator and a switch....then it would go like this.....on side of the switch goes to your accessory fuse (one that only goes on when the key is turned on the other side goes to one terminal on the light the other terminal of the light is grounded. The switch on the 231 has 4 outlets....search this site for a drawing of what they are....hook a vac line from your manifold to the 231 switch....hook the 4wd output hole to the SPST vac hole. now when the motor is running and you pull on the 4wd lever the switch on the 231 will open causing a vacuum that will activate the SPST switch and turn on the light..... We will give you a couple of minutes to hook that up and report back . :MJ 1: .

Any wire coming off the AX15 would have NOTHING to do with 4WD....an AX15 is a transmission.....your transfer case diverts (transfers) the power to the front axle when it is engaged. The wires that come off of the AX15 (please correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure there are only these)....one runs from a ballbearing momentary switch that is in the reverse position (turns on the white lights in your tail lights when you put it in "R")....the other is not an activator but a de-activator....it goes to the same type of ballbearing momentay found in your 5th gear channel....it actually de-activates your shift up light...for those whe seek that elusive 6th gear when the revs get high. Just MHO....pics with questions like this will get you quicker more accurate answers...

One last question...... Does the oil sender not send a signal to my jeeps brain box as well? If i replace the sender with the coupler for the mechanical gauge, will we not get a check engine light because the computer will see no oil pressure? Or is the low oil sensor a separate circuit?

Thanks Guys one last shot at chasing that wire then Mechanical it is... . :MJ 1: .

T-case will not have up shift indicator...if it has a vac switch then originally when you pulled back on the 4wd lever that opened the vac switch that caused a vac line to move the CAD fork over and engage your front diff....when this fork moved to engaged it pushed a switch that turned the light on on the dash....again...if it is a 231 with a vac switch..... you could make it work if you had a small vac actuator (like the one on the heater control valve) and a momentary switch......hook the vac line to the actuator so it presses the switch....hook the switch to the light....Does that make any sense?

The lights would be activated off of the T-case...not the trans...depends on the year of the case...early 90's would probably still have the vac switch...can you better identify the t-case?_

Am I thinking the right way? if the gauge is not toasted.....when I remove the positive cable from the battery it should drop to 0...? is 0 the no power default on an OE gauge?

That I can not give an accurate answer to. All I can say is it was working fine prior.

Appreciate the answer....I will re-state.... Gauge is ALWAYS on High...Maxed out....under these circumstances.. key off key on sender plugged in key on/off sender unplugged key on/off wire from gauge grounded key on/off Gauge was working good up to oil change.....Sender is brand new OE

One try before we go to mechanical... 1996 XJ 4.0.....Oil gauge works fine....Son does an oil change....comes inside and says his gauge is pegged to the max....quick inspection shows that when changing the filter he broke the sender in half....after searching had to go to a dealer to buy a new one.....installed....gauge stays pegged.....have +/- 8 volts coming out of gauge.... Stays maxed under all conditions...unplugged...plugged.....grounded... Anyone ever see this ... :hmm:

YES.....EASY FIX....YOUR WELCOME.. 8)

If you want the engine cleaming method go to the main forum page....in the search bar type in "kitchen sink" click search.... go to the 5th post down from Zack....it is typed there.... if nothing else dump your oil today.....get a strainer or even a rag over a pail and pour your old oil through it....if a skirt is broken you will have shrapnel for sure...

Rule of thumb is 10% deviation in compression...but I was never much for rules..... . :MJ 1: . I am unclear on the problem....if it is running strong as you say....is it the tapping that concerns you...if so see above...I can see if i can find a link (cuz I am too lazy to type it) for an engine cleaning regime I do often...try it...can't hurt... :dunno:

What motor? and since jeep did not come with a 3 cylinder... what is the compression on the other cylinder(s) the question would be the difference in compression comparing all across the motor

By the description given.....it is a lack of compression that is the problem.....but maybe I read it wrong . :MJ 1: .

The master will work for you.... . :MJ 1: .

Skirt or no skirt....pull the pan (it will have to come off anyway) and see were you are at....

Like the Cruise Master says.....get rid of it.....there are a couple of good posts on here showing how to re-run the hoses nicely....and for the flush you will also get great results with just everyday household vinegar..I take the hose off at the water pump end elevate it and fill the heater core then let it sit for a bit....then just flush with the garden hose....repeat until you have a strong stream of clear water... . :MJ 1: .

The leak at the line is caused by the connector being put in improperly... not seated....the flare at the end of the line should match the taper in the orifice and seat perfectly. The leak at the bottom might just be an illusion and its source is also coming from the connection point. Take the line off....make sure it is not stripped or damaged....put it back on correctly.... . :MJ 1: .

Leaking from were?

It is going to have to come off.....dry fit it this time when you put it on (no rtv or gasket) finger tighten the bolts and spin it from time to time until you feel it starting to jamb on something...twist it gently back and forth a couple of times and then take it off...maybe you can see were it is rubbing. And with all do repect.....it is the correct pump..... . :MJ 1: . ....right?