yxmj

Unplug it ....you will live

Are you sure you loaded the music under a format that your stereo recognizes?

I am really loving that dash :thumbsup:

Here ia a bit of info on how to rebuild... http://comancheclub.com/topic/41742-clutch-master-rebuild-mod/ But from your description it would be the seals #16 and #15 in the pic that are gone.....I have never fount a source for those that would make rebuilding worth while Like I say in the post if you can get a NABCO.....that would be a good one As for the line....the external will be a one piece that is all changed at the same time....internal....on 2 of mine right now I am using a rear break line for the clutch line.

Best spot unfortunately is in the bottom Rad Hose.....that will give you the best reading. I made mine out a chunk of galvanized exhaust pipe and a bung... Here is the whole assembly before welding....(that bolt is upside down in the pic, it should be head down, welded to the pipe) Then inserted in the bottom hose (sorry no pic)

The MC is not hard to change. once the line is off it is just a pin and 2 bolts to get out. My guess for the reason the fluid is black is the hose connecting the master to the slave is original and is rotting out.....it should be replaced. and yes you will have to bleed it. In this case bleed it until your fluid runs clear......then bleed it some more.... . :MJ 1: .

There are a couple of write ups on here that you can read.....The spot in the T-stat is the easiest place to put it......but if you want it to run at max efficiency it should be placed in the lower rad hose.....That way the reading would be correct to turn the fan on and off. . :MJ 1: .

Well on the bright side.....you already have a cherry picker on site........pull it while you are in wrench mode......it is only about 12 more bolts.....let the owner decide were the dollars go....but that ain't going nowhere... :dunno:

Don't mean to condescend....but just in case...... so you are ready for the install step 1...tighten all bolts to 22ft/lbs step 2....tighten all bolts to 45 ft/lbs step 3....recheck all bolts at 45ft/lbs step 4...tighten all bolts except #11 to 110ft/lbs, then tighten #11 to 100ft/lbs... #11 bolt instructions have been noted above.

Just to add above....it is a Deep 12 point 13mm

Here is what I bought at CT....same kit http://www.jeep4x4center.com/door-hinge-pin-and-bushing-kit-55012900k.html

If your leaving both manifolds on the only tip I can think of is to cut yourself a little chunk of fuel line (rubber hose) about 2- 21/2" then slice it down one side length wise. The bolt on the rear drivers side will hit the firewall and not come out....loosen it off lift it up slide the rubber hose over it....the hose will hold the bolt out of the way (but in place) for you for both the removal and install. :thumbsup: I also spend the extra $6 every time and by the extreme duty gasket.....do not know if it makes a difference.....but the name sounds tough. . :MJ 1: .

Rockfrog.....I see by your location you might be near a Canadian Tire store. I was able to get a couple of pins that worked for me at my local CT.....they were in the "Help" section with all the replacement window cranks and trim repair pieces.......I am positive they were a doorman part.....sorry I do not have the number......but it might be worth your time to take a look. . :MJ 1: .

For the rear either a 44 or there are lots of 8.25's out there.....the 8.25 will have to be reworked with perches....so will the 44 unless you are lucky and get on out of an mj. To answer the other question you need to clarify what you are building.....a daily driver or a rock and mud buggy..... . :MJ 1: .

You can make any pump work....currently on my 87 2.5 I have a 98 XJ pump with a modified bracket....(cut 3/8" out of the middle and welded it back together) But in a pinch ......I built this in the parking lot of Home Depot out of an ABS T with a screw cap and a couple of brass fittings Installed it right there Ran like that for many months before I got around to putting in the new one..... . :MJ 1: .

TJ axle will not be a direct bolt in....front spring buckets are in a different position and rear is coil spring not leaf

First.....No such thing as a 97 YJ.......so you better confirm your year.......then we can give you advise from there......bearing size changed as well as axles

Cruiser....I did not know you were Canadian.... :Canadaflag: :cheers:

Be easier to read if 1) it was not sideways 2) There was not massive glare off the screen. Try and re-post I would be interested to see it correctly

In My Humble opinion put the money you would put into the swap into a stout 4L and you would be better off in the end. This is an excerpt of an article that I keep on the tool box for any 4L doubters ( keep in mind that the Motors the are talking about are stock....we have not even mentioned a 4L stroker yet......) When the 4.0 burst onto the scene, it had a full 180 horsepower in the Wrangler (a German publication listed it as 172 horsepower, and, in the Cherokee, it started out with 177 hp). In 1990, when the 4.0 still had 177 hp, the GM 4.3L V6 only made 160 hp, the Ford 4.9L I6 (used in the F150 and Econoline) only made 145 hp, the Ford 4.0 V6 made 155 hp, the Chrysler 5.2L made 170 hp, the Jeep/AMC 2bbl 360 V8 made 144 hp, and the Nissan 3.0 V6 (used in the Pathfinder) made 153 hp. Jeep upped the ante in 1991, when the Cherokee's version made 190 hp. The YJ didn't get the 4.0 until the 1990s (it was still using the old 258 six). When the YJ did get the 4.0, it only made 181 hp... possibly due to a more restrictive exhaust. Peter wrote: In 1987 I wondered why they didn't drop the 4.0 I6 into the YJ, which was still using the 112-117 hp 258 (4.2 liter) six; or the Eagle, Concord and Grand Wagoneer, which came with the four-barrel 360 V8, making just 144 hp. The 4.0 I6 made more power than the Ford 302 V8, Chevy 305, Chrysler 318, and AMC 360, as well as any of the 6 cylinder engines the Japanese were putting in their trucks... and it had comparable or better fuel economy. An AMC Concord with the 177HP 4.0 I6 might have been a better police pursuit vehicle than the Dodge Diplomats (140-150HP), Chevy Caprices (160-170HP) and Ford Crown Victorias (160-165HP). The Dodge Dakota, Ram, and vans would have been better with this engine rather than the 3.9L V6 or the pre-Magnum 318 V8. Compared with other contemporary engines, the 4.0 was strong up until the end.

Why is everybody yelling? ;)

There is a plastic dust shield that should be on the outside of the axle tube This on is off a ZJ but you get the idea.....could it be this Maybe it was broken and driven in some how? Or installed incorrectly?

You don't need to climb a tree to see the bolts....you need to lay on your back.....under the truck..... :thumbsup:

It is a small pic but you can see all the bolt holes...this shield has to come off

I think it was connected to the emissions maintenance timer? PO probably took it out to shut off the light.... :dunno: