yxmj

This is a YJ But the process is the same....watch the Video To bleed you will need a helper ( you can go on you tube and see various techniques) Basically it is this....Find a wrench that fits the bleeder...slide it on....slide on a chunk of hose...clear is better but any will work....put the other end in a clear bottle or jar. Top up your reservoir.....open the bleeder and have your helper put the pedal to the floor and hold it....close the bleeder.....helper lifts foot off pedal...open bleeder....pedal down....repeat. You should be getting a stream of dirty fluid emptying into you catch jar.......after about 4 pumps up and down stop at the point were the bleeder screw is closed and the foot is off the pedal....top up you reservoir....continue to bleed until you fluid runs as clear coming out as going in. ( this might require you stopping a couple of times and topping up the reservoir...once it is clear close screw...top of reservoir and you should be good to go.... :thumbsup:

They are pulling your wire first you need to see if you have an internal or external slave then we can advise from there.....no offence but do you know the difference.

One answer at a time 1- No the link is not a "Bleed spot" It is how you would remove the line if you want to take the trans out. 2- No it being internal does not make it harder or easier to bleed than external....it is the exact same process. 3- Look at the pictures I posted On the bottom one you can see the internal slave on the left had side....you can see the bleeder on the lower line.....now look at the top pic..the line with the link goes into the bell housing to the slave....the one coming out of it has the bleeder on it. Follow you line from the top down to were it goes into the bell housing....is there a bleeder there?

You do not list your location but check with JY's around or any local Jeep clubs....someone might have changed theirs out for a solid axle and have the fork kicking around in the garage.

Bleeder will be coming out of the bell housing....Probably 5/16 or 8 mm (looks like a brake bleeder screw. As for the other look at the drivers side of the trans....if it is an external ......you will see it bolted there....internal you will not be able to see Internal External

Fill it up with the correct fluid and bleed the clutch....I would lay money that it will solve your problem

The clutch and the brakes are not connected....is your clutch reservoir filled to the fill line with dot 3 ( or better) fluid And with all do respect.....the clutch reservoir not the break reservoir

???? Do you mean Clutch fluid is froze....you mention brake fluid And if your clutch fluid was frozen you would not be able to press the clutch to the floor :dunno:

Look on page 3 of this section there is a thread called "top 2 Transmission bolts"......it will answer your questions The only thing that i would add is as mentioned in the thread loosen the 2 top ones first.......I personally tossed them and replaced them with conventional bolts.

Is it possible that by the new motor mounts changed the angle of the flywheel-to-clutch interface enough to bust my slave cylinder seal? Think about that for a second....the trans is bolted to the motor....it does not pivot at that point....changing the mounts would have no effect on that junction Interestingly, it only seems to leak when the truck is running, I confirmed this by filling the reservoir and letting the truck idle in neutral for a minute, and to my disappointment, watching a steady drip from the bell housing. I shut the truck off and the leak subsided. The internal slave has by design has an integral release bearing so when the truck is running it is always rotating....it could be leaking from here or just the vibration caused by this makes it leak it another point .....my guess would be the O-ring coupler at the intake line. You may want to find a bell housing from a 94+ AX15 (or the whole trans). These came with external SC. These are less prone to failure. With all do respect .....I do not think the advantage is "less prone to failure".....the advantage is that you do not have to pull the driveshaft/transfer case(if 4x4)/transmission, to change it...with the external it is just a matter of removing 2 bolts on the side of the bellhousing and it is out. It is after all a 25 year old part that get used extensively.....it wore out.......I changes my 28 year old one for a nice cast one i got on e-bay and have had no problems. :thumbsup:

As long as you are running a rim with stock backspacing you will have no problem..... . :MJ 1: .

You will be fine with just putting it in N. If you could zoom in on my avatar you would see I have a set of tow bar brackets that are permanently attached to my front bumper.....I am always buying more jeeps so this allows me to pick them up by myself.....I just drive up toss on the tow bar and let the new purchase tow the MJ back home.....of course I have to make sure my new Rig has a hitch every time.... . :MJ 1: .

Do you have a factory dash clock ( or did the factory stereo come with a clock)? If so it would require a constant power source to keep the time and the preset stations......just throwing that out there :dunno:

I don't know why but for some reason your collection makes me thirsty...... :dunno:

So the one you are looking at is for your door switch to turn the interiors on and off with the opening and closing of the door.....I do not know what your PO did to bring the stereo into that mix,,,,,,but as said above maybe you should start with the stereo harness and work from there?

Just measured every 231 i have...6 in 2 out......and baring dirt and ice all tail shafts are within 1/8" by my tape.....the one on the yj is the same length but seems to have a different bolt pattern IMHO.....the solution for you is to get a SYE and have a shaft made the right length :dunno:

Then why not ask the fellow who has the tail-shaft to measure it for you and then compare it with the current tail-shaft you have?

If you have the parts....grab yourself a tape measure and answer your own question... :dunno:

I found this.....From your description maybe the stereo is cross wired to you interior lamps some how...the dome and cargo lamps have pink in yellow out ?

Do they work with the relay pulled?

Do you have power door locks...If I remember correctly....and you might find info if you search the site....the main power for the power door locks was a pink lead... :hmm:

CPS

I do not know if this will help you but if your relay looks like this here is the pin-out

???? Now you are talking about a different Rod????? :hmm:

What is the measurement from the lip of the master to the center of the hole were the pin for the pedal goes?