yxmj

I have one in a XJ Only has 2 of what you are requesting...temp and direction For the other two you would have to go by old school rules..... 1) If the water in you boot is salty......your at sea level 2) if the blades of grass are pointing down.....your on your roof... . :MJ 1: .

Easy way might be to find a JY fan and install it and for control add a manual toggle switch in the cab, that controls a relay under the hood. 1) Put power to the fan so you can get it turning the right way and find the Pos+ and Neg-....Ground the Neg- to the chassis. 2) Run Pos+ from fan to terminal 87 on your relay run a direct Pos+ from Battery to terminal 30/51 ( an in-line fuse is suggested) 3) Run a line from Terminal #86 into the cab to one side of a toggle switch.....run the other side of the toggle to your fuse panel and plug in to an accessory (only on when the key is on). Now you will have an accessory fan that you can turn on when ever you want, but you will have the piece of mind that it will go off when you turn off the ignition. ( if you what it to run automatically you can wire a temp sensor in as well and have the best of both worlds)

Simple answer.....no

By the chart on this page it should. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm

If you are going the rebuild way...there are chains ( and kits) that are wider that would give you ( I believe if my memory is right ) a chain about 30% stronger....google it....the info and part numbers are out there

It was the 2.8 (v6) that you could swap a ford carb to.....The TBI in yours is pretty straightforward (I , and others on the site have them)....what is the problem?

I personally have to laugh at YXMJ correcting someone else's spelling. I pointed out one of his errors once and got ridiculed in his signature for a while for it. That my little Saskabushian friend is exactly why I did it...... :thumbsup: No one has yet mentioned that you will need to move the crossmember. It involves drilling new holes in the frame and welding or inserting nutserts. You might get away with this.....my 2wd 87 has both sets the bolt holes there....as well as a bolt in blank pre cut out for the 4wd stick......but the 86 might not.

Well I hope you didn't pay up front.......But if you did....roll up a couple....fly out....and play us a tune.... :rotf:

Their......doesn't.......I'll........ :thumbsup: .......Looking forward to you contributing....

Did you pout and storm out of class every time you asked a question and a teacher/instructor/professor told you to do the same? Read back on your posts in this thread......with the amount of open ended poorly asked questions (not to mention spelling errors) you are lucky that people took the time to help you at all. . :MJ 1: . IMHO

Easiest way I have of finding out from someone is ask....."what color is your rad cap"......if they say "what rad cap".....CLOSED......any other answer...OPEN.... :thumbsup:

Check and clean your grounds....do you have 12v at the coil?

Keep in mind that was done without any formal training........

How is this ?

If that red wire with the green and white tag runs to the positive battery terminal......then you are all good

1) I do not know if this is you answer but the return hose you mention is mounted higher than it is for stock....is it possible you are pinching it off when you close the hood and not allowing it to function right? 2) Where did you get the rad cap with the gauge in it.?

Milwaukee ...M12.......Strong but the tools are light and easy to use....Lithium ion batteries charge fast and last long. (I also Have the Rigid 12 volt ......most do not know it but Milwaukee, Rigid and Ryobi are all made from the same parent company....Just different tiers.....Like Black and Decker and Dewalt )

I think he means speedo cable :dunno:

I have both...but prefer manual......I always feel sorry for my passengers when i have been driving the MJ or my YJ for a while and then jump into one of the automatic XJ's.......that first time as I approach a stoplight and put my foot on the "clutch".......and the passenger goes into the windshield..... :doh:

Leave the drive shaft worry for the very end.....You can do the entire swap and drive around in front wheel drive if you have to move it.....before you need to think about a drive shaft. And IMHO go with the newer open system for cooling.... :thumbsup:

Ha....if we all had your hot air......we would not need extra air for our motors we would all be super charged......you start emailing all the tubo companies blower companies air filter and hood scoop companies and tell them to shut the doors......cuz your wisdom has determined that extra air is not good for an internal combustion motor..... and I have been a bit of a hillbilly in my time but.......your big argument.....(that you pulled from another thread not this one) is about getting in water and hydrolocking the motor.....here is a tip Billy bob....drive on the trail or on the street/highway/road......were 99.999% of the trucks on this site spend most of there time.......not everybody( thank you Jesus ) lives in your little world. How about this Jethro........you provide us with YOUR facts on how allowing more air.... to any type of internal combustion motor is detrimental (that means bad) in any way..... :bowdown:

Well deep water crossings are always a problem.......but with reference to the original theme of this thread.....the original factory air intake is positioned lower that the mod so any water let in would have already come through the factory location. And realistically how often are you driving around in 32" of water? The benefits you would receive the other 99.99% of the time would be worth it.... :thumbsup:

Duel electric fans with manual override switches in the cab are the answer......if you overheat with that then you definitely have a cooling system problem. Here is a crazy idea that I used for an older gm truck that was used for road work....it had to inch along for miles at a time carrying a heavy load........I took a piece of galvanized ducting (like the kind you use for a home furnace) and with some tin snips and pop rivets attached it to the floor heat output then ran it across the passenger floor to the factory speaker hole....added an every day furnace floor vent to the lower door panel on the outside and there you have it........when the temp gauge starts to rise you turn on the floor heat flick the fan to max......and you essentially add another small rad (the heater core) and fan to your cooing system..and you are using parts that are already there.....the only piece you are adding is the exhaust......it was a bit of a hillbilly set up but it ran for years without a hitch......just the aesthetics of it needed to be refined For a jeep application I would see it as some sort of reverse snorkel or side venting set up.

Yes....I don't think i said that when i posted this originally ......but with the Mj and the XJ's i took a 2" hole saw and put about 3 holes through the rad cradle behind and around the headlight.......more easily available air that the engine does not have to work hard to get.......it's a good thing. :thumbsup:

I have done this on all mine .....2" hole saw with 4 or 5 holes through the rad cradle all around the drivers side headlight then this mod on the air box fender side (this one has been increased to the full side of the air-box) http://comancheclub.com/topic/39677-easy-%E2%80%9Ccold-air%E2%80%9D-air-box-mod/?hl=cold+air