yxmj

It is like driving by a car wreck.....you don't want to look.......but you can't help yourself........ :doh:

Friend if you do not take this gentleman up on his generous offer ....you should give us all the relief of not posting here again....regulars will know what i mean....in all you posts you ask for help....it is given ....and you always find a way to change it up.....this Gentleman has given an offer that i think is beyond generous....if you don't take it ........... :doh:

I have one on my YJ....4L HO.....nice deep throaty sound.......only time it sounded better was when I ran a straight pipe :banana:

Maybe your linkage is fubar.....and the t case was in N when you figured 2H

T-case was in Neutral :dunno:

Could be the rear. my guess would be front By doing it the way I described you take away the hold the caliper has on the rotor......that might be just enough to keep it from moving :dunno:

IMHO u-joint have a different sound when failing.....not a grinding but a thumping or rattling. If the sound changes when you turn the wheel I would guess a front bearing, Do you have any noticeable lean to either front tire? It is a bit of work but to check my routine is this: -jack and secure truck on stands -remove front wheel -remove front brake caliper -remove front rotor -flip rotor around and install it backwards with at least 3 lug nuts -now grab the rotor and wiggle and pull on it.....the revers position gives you more mechanical advantage/ amy movement?

This is not an act..... :rotf: Reddog listen to the "OLDDOGS"......find a jeep 2.5 (with the harness and computer) find a tree branch and a come along and a set of wrenches and sockets. In the same amount of time it took you to type your answers to this thread you could pull your motor......put in the 2.5 and :driving: More HP and better gas milage.... :thumbsup:

You left out the most important bit of info.......$$$$$$$ For $1000 it is a great buy :thumbsup: For $4000 it is Robbery :doh: Were does it stand..... . :MJ 1: .

If you have an account with them E-bay is good

Chrysler A904; 3 Speed

I would assume he only gets the popping sound when 4WD is engaged? Thats why he is thinking TC I have heard that sound many times myself..........like mentioned above the chain (once the T-case is out) is about a 40 minute repair :thumbsup:

I have had my eyes out for some turbines....but as of yet no luck.......but I do agree with HornBrod....I ran that "vette" beauty ring/center cap look on my GM for many years. On a diffent (same) topic with the Pic a parts......up here aluminum rims with no weights or valve stem are worth $.70/lb...even the bent ugly ones

Why mess up a great wheel with flat black paint.....those turbines are classics.....if you don't like them ship them to me.......I will take god care of them. On a separate topic......from reading your other posts....right now you can't even get your rig running...... Hear is a easy list to keep in mind when working on vehicles 1) You need go 2) you need stop (if vehicle will not move see #1) 3) if you have go and stop.....you need safety....(make sure the truck is up to the standard in your area to be on the road......if truck does not move or run see #1) 4) once you have eliminated #'s 1-3 you can mod it up all you want......until 1-3 are done you are blowing smoke and wasting money.. To re-cap...Go......Stop......make look Pretty..... :thumbsup:

If it does not matter......why do the manufactures and the aftermarket community waste time making reverse cut gears? If it is like described above....... you would just need one type of gears for all.

Why change just the disc's.....what rear end is it....a 44? If so grab the whole thing

Is the HP not designed for a reverse cut ring and pinion ?

Keep in mind the year of the housing you are putting the gears into into.....the YJ gears will not go into the HP D30

Just putting it out there.....you can make an easy circuit with an interior cab switch and an under hood relay to add manual control of the fan.....so you can turn it on when you feel you need it. . :MJ 1: .

YJ is spring under (like the rear of your MJ) ......would take some fab work to get it to fit

I do not have w 99 but right now licenced and on the road I have 3 98's and a 2000 (and we like them) IMHO :dunno: Price is on the high side but it is low miles and looks clean. Test drive it ....take it through some turns....stop hard...listen for any clunking or rattling......see if you can get to some loose topsoil were you can engage the 4x4 and see if all works well. Like all jeeps crawl under and check your floor pans and frame for rust. Go through all the drive train as best you can ( it is a 15 year old Truck). The head will have a # cast in it so you can see what it is if that is a concern......but my experiance has been that unless it has been overheated an excessive amount of times ......you should be good. I bought the XJ's for my daughter's and my wife and they all love them......I feel safe when they are driving them.....especially on a Manitoba winter's night.....and since i am the fleet mechanic .....it is nice that they are easy to work on. Oh and I agree with above.....he is fudging on the milage....or he drives down hill a lot with the wind to his back.... . :MJ 1: .

You can tell by the shape of the diff cover.....

I would like to help but am confused by the parts labeled "A" and "B" in your description. Just to be clear.....the original configuration the small retainer spring when assembled is in the spring retainer cup......so it would be on the right hand side as the drawing shows....spring touching the right face of the cup as the picture shows...... My mod moves the spring to the other side of the cup.....it would end up inside #13 (plunger spring) to the left of the cup with the new spring touching the rear or right side of the cup as shown Is that how you have it? you can PM me if you need more help

Bleeding a clutch is a fairly simple proceedure.....you can search it here....http://comancheclub.com/topic/21849-advice-for-clutch-bleeding/. or all over the internet.....there are write ups and even step by step how to video's......Just a guess but I would think he is using it ask a mask to cover up somthing more serious :dunno:

You should be able to see the difference just by putting them side by side....if it was reversed the blade would be pitched the other way \ / Same with the water pumps you can look at and compare the impellers from the back side. And the Double V Belt configuation was more prevelent in wranglers....if that info helps